Ai Falconi Rock Climbing Area, Verona Province

AL FALCONI ROCK CLIMBING AREA | VERONA PROVINCE

Ai Falconi is one of the newest climbing areas in the area around the city of Verona.  In the same area as the Ceredo Climbing Area and near the town of Ceredo, Ai Falconi offers two smaller sectors with about 20 climbs each.  The area sits higher up the ridgeline above the village of Ceredo and is in the sun most of the day.  A great place to check out if you are climbing in the area for a few days.

AI FALCONI CLIMBING GUIDE

Routes are listed left to right

  1. Prog. ?
  2. Copertina, 7a+/b,
  3. Fantasia, 7c+,
  4. Thank you Silence, NL (8b/c?),
  5. Sushi Bar, 7c+,
  6. Open your Mind, 8a,
  7. Effetto Dopler, 7a+/b,
  8. Super Jumar, 7a,
  9. Nikita, 7a+,
  10. Caneva world, 7a,
  11. La Pace dei Mondi, 8b,
  12. Black Out, 8a+,
  13. Cuore Grande, 7c+,
  14. Casa dolca Casa, 7c,
  15. Albatros, 7a+/b,
  16. Albatros “Lunga”, NL (8a?),
  17. Foer, 7c, (ch: Tosi),
  18. Il Filosofo e Penelope, NL,
  19. Sotto Pressione, 8a+/b,
  20. Le Radici del Cielo, 7c,
  21. Crack Game, 6c,
  22. La Lacrima di Polifemo, 8a,
  23. Cavalchina, 7c/+,
  24. PSI, 6b,
  25. PSI+Copatico, 7c/+,
  26. Sole e Luna, 7a+,
  27. The Invisible Man, 6c+,
  28. Fotti il Fotografo, 6a+,
  29. Connessione Invisibile, 6b,
  30. Porco’s Pino, 6c,
  31. Nonno Bieto, 6b+,
  32. Risveglio Muscolare, 6a,
  33. Le 9 Primavere di Ale, 6b,
  34. Ifix Tcen Tcen, 7a,
  35. Fuffy, 6a,
  36. Sei…, 6a+,
  37. 85+15 , 6c,
  38. Attimi di Luce, 6c,
  39. Prog.!?
  40. Drink another little GRAPPA before U die, NL (7c+/8a?),
  41. Il Resto Conta Meno, NL (8a/+?),
  42. Il Mai è dispari, NL (8a?),
  43. Mon Ami Saint Lucie, 7a+,
  44. I Fantastici 4, 6c+,
  45. Caramelle, 7b,
  46. Lisa Violenta, 7c,
  47. El Popo de Stenech, NL (8b?),
  48. Tashi Delek, 7c,
  49. Tashi Delek “Lunga”, NL (8b?),
  50. Prog. ?
  51. L’avvelenata, 7a,
  52. I Turnisti, 7b,
  53. Non Ti Scordar di Me, 5c,
  54. Come i Pomodori, 6a,
  55. …………, 6a+,
  56. Isis, 7a+,
  57. La Vergine delle Rocce
  58. Estasi, 7a,
  59. Prog. ?

 

Anfiteatro sector | Lumignano climbing area Vicenza Province

ANFITEATRO SECTOR | LUMIGNANO ROCK CLIMBING AREA

The Anfiteatro sector is a good place for climbers between 5 and 7c, but you must be really careful because the routes are very high (+30m) so it's better to use at least a 60m rope.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

ANFITEATRO CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
GEOGRAPHY Lumignano, Colli Berici
BEST TIME OF YEAR
from October to March
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
46
RANGE OF GRADES
from 5a to 7c+
HEIGHT +30m

routes

From left to right

Leccata e fuga 6a+
Nato il 1° Luglio 6b
Girolimoni 6b
Balla cio mussi 6c+
Mavandabeluch 6b+
Spaccamelo 6a+
Ambulatorio Dr. Rasia 6a
Hombre de flama 6b+
Eurotica 7a
Randevù 7a
Bizzarre 6c+
Play boy 6c
Play girl 6c
W Zapta 6c
Pancia Simonato 6a
1000 rimorsi nessun rimpianto 6b+
Trainspetting 6b
One of these days... 6c
Ultimo tango a Lumignano 6c
Ascensore per l'interno 6b+
Via col mento 6a+
Buchi neri 6c
Giardino di pietra 6b+
Trapani roventi 6a+
Agli uomini piacciono le brombe 6b
Male allucinante 6a+
Fuga dalla Padania 6b
Buon 45° compleanno 6a+
La carica dei 740 6a
30 metri per morire 6c-
Quella sporca manettina 7b+
Mostarda 7c
Buchi d'artificio 7c+
Assassinio sul brojon 6c+
Via Rezzonico 28 6c+
Sette nani nel Tibet 6c
Il fronte del porco 6b+
Stop the pigeon 6a+
I sette salumai 6b+
Caduta maschi 6c
Karma letale 6b+
Easy climber 6b
S.O.B. 6b
Il topico del Capricorno 6a+
Zabriskie joint 5c
Tempeste ormonale 5a

Asfodeli Climbing Area, Parma Province

LAGONI-ASFODELI ROCK CLIMBING AREA | EMILIA ROMAGNA REGION

lagoni asfodeli climbing area

The Asfodeli rock climbing area is located south of the city of Parma and near the bouldering area of Lagoni. The climbing site is located in an area not well know for climbing since there are not a lot of cliffs.  The wall has a little over 25+ routes on a sandstone wall. Sitting in a tranquil location it is a nice break from the more popular climbing areas and a great stop over point as you travel from Liguria to the northern regions.

ASFODELI ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Emilia Romagna
LOCATION Parma
NEAREST TOWN
Pontremoli
GEOGRAPHY Apennine
  Rock Climbing Italy, Asfodeli Climbing Map
BEST TIME OF YEAR  Spring and Fall
APPROACH TIME  30 min from parking
ROCK  Sandstone
HEIGHT  30 meters
RANGE OF GRADES  5 - 7b (20+ routes)
GUIDE BOOKS/MAP  
   

RECCOMENDED ROUTES

  • Oasi 6c
  • I profeti del falso 7a
  • L'abusivo 6a+
  • J'aime quim'aime 7a

 

Barbarano Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

BARBARANO VICENTINO CLIMBING AREA | VICENZA

Rock Climbing Italy, Barbarano

The Rock Climbing site known as Barbarano is a small cliff sitting in above the village of Barbarano Vicentino, in the Berici Hills. The site was developed by Andre Minotti in the 90's and offers a nice escape from the weekend crowds in Lumignano. The site also can be clear and sunny on days there is a low lying fog in the valley due to its higher altitude in the hills. Barbarano has some good climbs and offers a good place to train, if you are a purist you will not like the area due to most routes being manufactured. Some routes you can skip the drilled holes and enjoy some very good rock.

Rock Climbing Italy Barbarano

BARBARANO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto Region
PROVINCE Vicenza Province
GEOGRAPHY Colli Berici
NEAREST TOWN Barbarano Vicentino
BEST TIME OF YEAR Spring and Fall
APPROACH TIME 10 minutes
ROCK  Limestone, grey
HEIGHT 30 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 4-8a (40+ routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  Rock Climb Italy, Italy Guide Book

 RECOMMENDED ROUTES

  • Sleeping Lion 7c
  • Il Piccione Viaggiatore 6b
  • Il Colore del Cielo 6b+
  • Toro Pancuito 6b

Rock Climbing Italy, Barbarano

Barbarano sector | Barbarano climbing area Vicenza Province

BARBARANO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | VICENZA

barbarano1

The Barbano sector is a small wall above the town of Barbarano Vicentino.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

Barbarano ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
GEOGRAPHY Barbarano, Colli Berici
BEST TIME OF YEAR
From october to march
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
29
RANGE OF GRADES
from 5c to 7c+
HEIGHT 25m

routes

From left to right

Sploosh 7c
Collezionisti di gesti inediti 7c
Bella donna 6b+
Veleno 6b
Via  5a
Sleeping lion 7c
I fedeli del verticale 7a+
Il ritmo del tempo 7b+
Ciao vecio 5b
La piccione viaggiatore 6b
Disumanamente insieme 6b
Cunnilingus 6c+
Dono di Natale 6a
Granchiamani 6c
Sunscape 6c
Buso se buso 6b
Raton Miky 5c
Il colore del cielo 6b
Cielo duro 6b+
Toro panciuto 6b
Chiappe burrose 6c
Grande glande 6c+
Piccole labbra 7a
Effimera illusione 6c+
L'acceleratore della storia 6c+
Bepo gonzales 6b
Il Puffo Ye 7b+
L'urlo 7c
Trapanator 6b+

Better Climbing and Bouldering

BETTER CLIMBING AND BOULDERINGRock climbing Italy

This section is about sharing Tips to help your Rock Climbing Trip to Italy smoother; by explaining some of the differences and where to find various things you may need.  Also are there are a few Rock Climbing Training trips. 

You can climb rock or ice without any specialized training, but you'll get much more out of your climbing if you strengthen the specific muscles and tendons needed for harder moves. Our expert-written articles will help you get the most out of your training for climbing, whether it's at the climbing gym, in a weight room, or in your own home.

Increase your strength. Climbing is both strength and technique dependent. If you do not have a minimum level of strength already, or you are not maintaining the strength that you do have, it may be important to do strengthening exercises.

Ensure adequate fluid intake at all times. Drink water before the climb and between climbs. Always replace the fluids you lose through sweating from the climb. Your hands and feet are the first parts of your body to start cramping when you are dehydrated.

Many new climbers are individuals simply looking for a great workout. They want to feel the burn that happens when you’ve gone 5 feet higher than you thought you could. Or they want to develop the strength a climber needs to hang by his arms as he swings his feet up level with his face.

There are a number of fitness benefits from climbing, and these benefits are accessible to anybody looking to get a little adventurous and have a lot of fun.

Most of the benefits of climbing hinge on the fact that it requires you to use your muscles in unconventional ways. Again, intense rock climbing is not natural to the human form.

Rock climbing requires you to develop muscle systems that are often used to very different ends in our daily lives and even in our other workouts. In other words, rock climbing stresses an uncommon use of common muscles.

To give an example, when we climb everyday objects such as ladders, we are most often curling our hands around bars to pull ourselves higher. Consequently, most non-climbers expect climbable rocks to be similar to a series of easy-to-grip rungs. In reality, however, your hands must adjust to a variety of grips when rock climbing.

Bismantova Climbing Guide, Reggio Emilia Province

PIETRA DI BISMANTOVA ROCK CLIMBING AREA | EMILIA ROMAGNA REGION

Pietra di Bismantova

Bismantova is located in the hills south of Reggio Emilia and is a large sandstone mesa that dominates the area. I first climbed here in the 90's, the quality of the sandstone was surprising. However, I found out quickly that it was not an area to climb at when the sun is overhead.  Luckly there are plenty of sectors all the way around this unique rock formation, facing each cardinal direction, that can be climbed based on weather and time of day.  The routes tend to technical and the holds very demanding on the fingers. The better routes are polished and you will need idea conditions to climb at the grade listed if you are trying to onsight.

The Hills of the local area are beautiful and there are several off the beaten path tourist attractions, that make this a nice two to three day climbing location. Also, nearby is the bouldering area of Ceriolo. The Pietra di Bismantova is mentioned by Dante Alighieri in his Divine Comedy (Purgatory, IV, 25-30).

BISMANTOVA ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Emilia Romagna
PROVINCE Reggio Emilia
CLOSEST TOWN Castelmovo ne'Monti
GEOGRAPHY Apennine
Rock Climbing Italy, Bismantova Climbing Map
BEST TIME OF YEAR All year
APPROACH TIME 5 min
ROCK Compact Sandstone
HEIGHT 200 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 4 - 8b (250+ routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  

RECOMMENDED ROUTES

  • Fessura Zuffa 6a+
  • Silver cat 6a
  • Sesso & sasso 6c
  • Ilusioni 7a
  • Karin B 7c
  • Schizo 7c
  • No a la chasse 8a

Sectors:

  • Moby Dick
  • Cocoa
  • Nino Marchi
  • Pilone Giallo
  • Torrione Sirotti
  • Roberta aiutami
  • Gare Nuove
  • Gabri
  • Gare Vecchie
  • Anfiteatro basso
  • Sasso sulsentiero
  • Pilone Giallo
  • I massi
  • Diamante e rubino
  • La Bettola
  • Masso del parcheggio
  • La sfinge
  • Pesce lesso

Bouldering Guide of Italy

ITALY BOULDERING GUIDE

Bouldering Italy

Italy has several great Bouldering Areas that are destination worthy.  In the past few years bouldering in Italy is just as importation as roped climbing and other mountaineering activities.  Within the Italian Dolomites, Italian Alps, and Apennine mountain groups there is a good variety of rock types, styles, and seasonal destinations throughout the country.  Combine the climbing with the history, food and wine, and culture Italy becomes a prefect place to enjoy an active vacation for all level of climbers.

Perhaps the most developed area in Italy is the Piedmont Region, in terms of number of sites, the best areas to climb on granite are in the Trentino-Alto Adige Region, and Lombardy Region.  If you are looking for sand stone you should head for the Emilia Romagna Region, Tuscany Region, and the Marches.  The Islands of Sicily and Sardinia have several great sites to explore that are a course granite. There are several small sites with volcanic rock throughout the county.

GUIDE TO BOULDERING IN ITALY

In this guide I have chosen to include, what to me, looked like the clear and obvious places to boulder in Italy. Since I do not know who established the all the routes I can not say someone else did not see the rock different. So, before you get pissed and upset, accept my apologies in advance, I am trying to provide a good starter guide for individuals to get to an area and start climbing. The joy of the sport is that we can all climb for ourselves and gain our own individual level of success. If you are visiting PLEASE BUY A LOCAL GUIDEBOOK to find the grades and updated route information.

Bouldering ethics should be simple just walk around, find a boulder and top it out!

  • If you do not need to top out don't. Leave the natural plants and moss in place if possible. Remember they are helping create O2 for us.
  • Chipping: What you can't remove with a stiff plastic brush should stay (unless something is very loose and dangerous).
  • Leaving tickmarks: When red pointing a boulder it is useful to mark the rock in order to find the holds and mark your sequence. However, it is very important that your drawings are brushed away as to not confuse other climbers.
  • Carry your trash and waste out with you.  Always have a plastic bag in your pack.

 

Camaiorese Climbing Area, Lucca Province

 CAMAIORESE ROCK CLIMBING AREA | TUSCANY REGIONRock Climbing Italy, Camaiorese Site

The Camaiorese climbing site near Lucca is a great sea and climb vacation spot for a few days.  The climbing site is about 20 minutes from the beach area and just far enough off the main tourist trek that you do not have to deal with overwhelming crowds.  The climbing are is spread across three townships: Greppolungo, Casoli, and Candalla, and each site offers a variety of routes and grades. 

CAMAIORESE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Tuscany
PROVINCE Lucca
NEAREST TOWN Camaiore
GEOGRAPHY  
BEST TIME OF YEAR  All Year
APPROACH TIME  20 minutes
ROCK  Limestone
HEIGHT  100 meters
RANGE OF GRADES  5 - 8b (150+ routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  

RECCOMENDED ROUTES

  • Ri toma il porro 7c
  • Pupporine 7c
  • Diablero 7b
  • Solo un gioco 6b

SECTORS

  1. Candalla Alta
  2. Candalla Basso
  3. Mulini
  4. Cimitero
  5. Setriana
  6. Cannelot
  7. Conchiusori
  8. Saratoga
  9. Tomeoni
  10. Plastri di Greppolungo
  11. L'isola
  12. Acquaspicca

Castegnero Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

CASTEGNERO ROCK CILMBING AREA | VICENZA

Castegnero is located in the Berici hills just south of the Lumignano Climbing Area. This site was developed about 10 years ago and still growing slowly. The rock quality is good even though the cliff is not very tall. There are plenty of good routes to work on at the moment, with newer routes being developed.  The limestone is a reddish quality not the grey you find throughout other Colli Berici sites.  Castegnero is a great place for a change of pace that is very quite on the week days, with plenty of routes for all levels. 

At one time this was a good area to escape the crowds at Lumignano on Sunday, however now that the site is getting more exposure it tends to get crowded on the weekends.

CASTENGERO CLIMBING AREA GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
NEAREST TOWN Vicenza
GEOGRAPHY Berici Hills
BEST TIME OF YEAR Spring and Fall
APPROACH 15 minutes
ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 25 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 4 - 8a (50+ routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  

ROUTES

From right to left

Le tre caprette 6a
El leon el musso 5b
Placca Balton 4c
Diletta 7a
Prigioniero 6c
Variante prigioniero nero 7b+
Red Wall 7c+
Punch  
Attenti al gufo 6c+
Lacrima rossa 6b+
Attenti al marchese 6a+
Local 6c
Il senso della vita 7a+
Profondo rosso 6a+
Pianeta Marte 6b+
Il passato che ritorna 5c
La banalità del bene 5b
Highway to hell  
The doctor Henry 7a+
Cuore di Miki 8a
Diabolik  
Diego e Chiara  
Lo zio Claudio (Permessino) 7a
L'ironia della gente 6a
I pirati di Erto 6b+
Il nulla 6c+
Cielo senza nuvole 7b
I tre sognatori 6b+
Le strade della vita 6b
Non c'è passione senza amore 7b
Mia dolce e terribile "Didò" 7a
Monsieur Verdoux 6b+
50 volte caste 6b+
Madre dolcissima per "Clo" 6b
Miolato's spit 6a+
Il bacio della piovra 6a
Ricchi dentro 6b
Un legame chiamato amicizia 6c+
L'urlo della farfalla 6b
Attraverso il cielo 6b
Machete 6a+
Laguna blu 6c+
Ferronato crack 5c
Occhi dolci per Paola spriz 6c+
Il guerriero di Feriole  
La via del Bredone  
P.F.F. 7b
Ciliege e magnesio 7c
Storm 8a
La tristezza 7b
Duce crack 5c

 

Castelbianco Climbing Area, Savona Province

CASTELBIANCO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | LIGURIA REGION

Rock Climb Italy, Castelbianco Climbing Site Liguria

A nice alternative to climbing in Finale Ligure, the Castelbianco area has become one of THE destination climbing sites in Italy.  The rock is of the highest quality and climbing is athletic with grades closer to the French style than Italian.  The climbing site is located north of the town of Albenga in the Pennavaira valley. Castelbiano is the primary site, but there are multiple crags in the valley.

CASTELBIANCO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Liguria
PROVINCE Savona
CLOSEST CITY Albenga
GEOGRAPHY Alps
BEST TIME OF YEAR Fall to Spring is the best season or late evening in Summer
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone with varied features
HEIGHT 100 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 5c to 8a
LENGTH OF ROPE 60 meters
EQUIPMENT 15 quick-draws
GUIDE BOOK/MAPS  

RECCOMENDED ROUTES:

  • Bissia 7a
  • Ombre rossa 7a
  • Timida 6c+
  • Cindy wau wau 6c+
  • Aladdin 7a
  • Dulfer in fondo 7a

Castlevecchio Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

CASTLEVECCHIO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | VENETO REGION

Rock Climb Italy, Castelvecchio climb

The Castelvecchio climbing site is located in the hills above the town of Valdagno, in the VIcenza Province.  The site gets its name from the small communtiy where it is located.  The climbing area is a summer destination since it faces north and sits around 600 meters in elevation. The climbing area has been developed and is maintained by the local climbing Association (CAI). A great have day place to stop over and enjoy on a hot day, excellent for smaller childern and place to picnic.

CASTELVECCHIO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
LOCATION Vicenza
NEAREST TOWN Valdagno
GEOGRAPHY Lessini Mountains
BEST TIME OF YEAR Summer
APPROACH 5 minutes
ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 30 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 4-7c (40+ routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  

CLIMBING ROUTES AT THE CASTELVECCHIO AREA

  1. Yburt 24m 7a+
  2. Grall 23m 6b
  3. Burba 91 23m 5c
  4. Michelangelo 25m 7b
  5. Hash 22m 6c+ Settore centrale
  6. Pink Panter 23m 5c+
  7. Hard rock 24m 7c
  8. Miriam 24m 6a
  9. Nibelungen 24m 6c+
  10. Alka seltz 24m 7a
  11. Paola 22m 4b
  12. Materasso 18m 6c
  13. Samarcanda 18m 7b
  14. Free fall 20m 6c
  15. Baby climber 16m 4c
  16. Uno 10m 4a
  17. Due 12m 4a
  18. Tre 16m 4a
  19. Take it easy 16m 6b
  20. Ludwig 16m 6b
  21. Attatroll 22m 6a+
  22. Silvè 22m 7a
  23. Sei 22m 5c
  24. Meteorite 25m 6b
  25. Scorpions 25m 6b
  26. Slate 16m 6a Settore alveare
  27. Ape maia(la) 16m 4c
  28. Asterix 18m 6b
  29. Ape muraria 22m 6c
  30. Sette 20m 6a
  31. Silvia 20m 6b+
  32. Ice cream 20m 7b
  33. Striscero’ 20m 7b+
  34. Gioco selvaggio 22m 6c
  35. Mantra 18m 6c+ 36 Matrix
  36. Obelix 38 Felix
  37. Coca e cibalgina 24m 7?
  38. Volere volare 24m 7?
  39. Due gocie di valium 24m 8?
  40. Dove osano i golosi 25m 7c

Cava San Floriano Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

CAVA SAN FLORIANO CLIMBING AREA | VICENZA

Old mine located at Monte Grappa. A nice area to climb with plenty of room for kids and other's. If nearby Costalungo is a bit hard or you have some smaller climber's with you this is a good choice for the day.

CAVA SAN FLORIANO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
NEAREST TOWN Bassano del Grappa
GEOGRAPHY Monte Grappa
BEST TIME OF YEAR Spring Summer, and Fall
APPROACH 10 minutes
ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 25 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 4 - 7a (20+ routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  

RECOMMENDED ROUTES

Ceraino Climbing Area, Verona Province

CERAINO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE | VERONA PROVINCE

Ceraino climbing site is located in the Adige valley in a steep canyon with a nice overhanging sector and a flatter technical sector. The cave area tends to amplify the noise of the street but during most days it is a nice quiet area. There are over 100 climbs ranging from 3 to 7b on good grey limestone. To get to the overhanging sector you need to cross the stream.

CERAINO CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
LOCATION Verona
NEAREST TOWN Verona
GEOGRAPHY Lessini Mountains Mountains
ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 20-250 meters
ORIENTATION Southwest
NUMBER OF ROUTES 100+
DIFFICULTY RANGE 4b - 7b+
NUMBER OF CLIMBING DAYS 2-3 Days
SUGGESTED ROPE LENGTH 60 meters
EQUIPMENT 15 Quick draws
GUIDEBOOK  

Recommended routes:

  • Cafè noir 5c
  • Torsoli 5b
  • Poimagoo 5a
  • Quand nonc'era il Verdon 6a
  • No smoking - 6a+
  • Dedicata a Narcisa - 6a
  • Niente come il sole 6b+
  • Predolino no perdona 6b+

Ceredo Climbing Area, Verona Province

CEREDO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | VERONA PROVINCE

Ceredo Rock Climbing Site Italy

Ceredo was "THE"  in climbing area, in the Veneto about 10 years ago. The rock was excellent and atmosphere quite and fun. As it got more popular the rock became polished and the greater number of people climbing at the site changed the vibe of the area. However, there was about a two year period that the road to access the area was closed so popularity fell off. And with the development of a few other cliffs in the area the numbers of climbers are not as overwhelming. There are some great routes, and this is a place to put on your tour list. Not a place for an extended visit but worth a couple of days.

CEREDO CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Verona
NEAREST TOWN Verona
GEOGRAPHY Lessini Mountains
ORIENTATION South
ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 30 meters
NUMBER OF ROUTES 130+
RANGE OF GRADES 5c-8b
ROPE LENGTH 70 meters

Recommended routes:

  • Yard bird 6b
  • Mangiafuoco 6b
  • Maui 7a+
  • Supercanna 7b+
  • No fly zone 7a+
  • No fear 7b
  • Hot line 7b+
  • Apokatastasis 8a+ (long route attention rope length)
  • Dolce follia 7b+
  • Ostramandra 8a

ROUTES FROM LEFT TO RIGHT

Martiri Della Polvere

5c

Tranqillo

5c

Mostro Bovino

6c+

Bonsai

7a+

Il Segretario

7a+

La Belva e la Bestia

6b+

Schegge di Vetro

6a+

S. Valentino

5c+

Rose di Bosco

6b

Faccia d’Albero

6b+

Yard Bird

6b

Mangiafuocco

6b

Sindrome Veronese

6b

La Santa Inquisizione

6a+

Anna dei Miracoli

5c

Caribe

5c

Lumacona Riflessiva

5b

Florentino

5c

LoGnomo di Saffres

6a

Frenetic Duo

5c

Trabocchetto al IV Piano

6b+

Nati Senza Camicia

6c

Lokomotiv

7a+

Presenze Misteriose

6b

L’uomo Senza Eta

6b+

Satori Brothers

6b

Governo Ladro

6a+

Sera inverno

6b+

Ange Noire

6b+

Il Trillo del Grillo

6a

Slow Hand

6a+

The rings

6c+

Maui

7a+

S.N.

7b

Petra

7b+

Supercanna

7b+

Graffiti nel cielo

7b

Cimici civili

6c+

Perla nera

7b

Baron Cervone

7b+

Eroi di pietra

7c

Il Samana

7b

Stalactite

7a

Torre d'acciaio

6c

Urla fiamminghe

7a+

Blanco canyon

6b

Polska

6a+

Pioggia di luce

6b+

Pilier 1886

6c+

No fly zone

7a

The scream

6c

Lady B

7a

Homo roc

7b

Determinator

7a

Wild love

6b

Erendira

6c

L'amore ai tempi del colera

6b+

Avesa connection

6c+

Mondo cano

6c

Diretta dell'altro mondo

7a+

Progetto nella caverna

 

Equilibristi esausti

7a+

Cèredoleso

7a+

Come volano i tacchini

6c+

Vento del tempo

6b+

Merenguero

7a+

Hot line

7b+

Piedi di piombo

7a+

Cavalca il serpente

7b

Zaquete

7b+

Exis

7c+

a sin. di Calypso

 

Calypso

7a+

S.N.

7a+

Vertigo

7c+

Ritorno a Itaca

8a+

Afrodisia

8b

Wonderwall

8a

L'eterno riposo

8a+

L'ombra del lupo

7c

Apokatastasis

7c+, lunga 8a+

Hidrospeed

8a+

Miracle

8a

No fear

7b+

7b

 

Magnificat

8a+

Scontro finale

8a+

Dolce follia

7b+

Anima Mundi

8b

Dies Irae

8b

Australia

8b

Fessura della paura

7b

Waka tanka

8a

Ostramanda

8a+

Kinesis

7c+/8a

Spigolo del sole

8a

Sogni di Veia

7a+

Isabella di Spagna

6b

Salamanca

6a+

 

 

Classica Sector | Lumignano Climbing Area Vicenza Province

CLASSICA SECTOR | LUMIGNANO ROCK CLIMBING AREA

Photo of the Classic Sector of Lumignano Rock Climbing Italy

The Classica Sector at Lumignano, was the first sector to be bolted in the early 1970's and during the 1980's hosted some of Europes hardest routes.  Even today the route quality is exceptional even if climbing skill has increased.  The grades tend to be very stiff and combined with the style of climbing it is very difficult to on-sight.  The grey and red streaked limestone is part of an undersea reef so you find lots of small pockets.  Many routes are very techincal requiring good foot work and strong finger strength. 

CLASSICA AREA CLIMBING GUIDE

Best time to climb is during cooler months and this is winter destination.  However, you can climb early morning until 1000 a.m. or after about 1700 p.m. during the warmer months. 

ROUTES ARE LISTED STARTING ON FAR LEFT TO THE RIGHT

(note that some routes have upper sections) most routes are marked.

  • 40 gocce di Valium 7a/ 7c+
  • Via Casarotto A2/IV+
  • Placca Campi 6a
  • Melli 5c
  • Totem 6a/b
  • Fessure Rossi III+, V
  • Via Conforto V, V+ Variation V
  • U2 6a
  • Joshua Tree 6b
  • Spigolo Casarotto 6a, III+
  • Eroiken varianten VI
  •  Varianten diretten 6a
  • New Route 7a+
  • Mariacher 6c
  • Libellulalilla 6a
  • Pinguino 6a+
  • Simeoni 6a
  • Bucomania 6b
  • Via Bisson 6b
  • Via Renè 6b
  • Kit e Katzi 6b+
  • Goccia d’acqua 6b
  • Goccia d’arsenico 7a
  • Mister X 7c
  • Lee Oswald 6a
  • Tentativo Mariacher ??
  • Fata Morgana 7b+
  • Ape IV+
  • Ali Agca 6a
  • Cina 6a+
  • Catarro 6c
  • Maruscao IV
  • Palkiewich 6a
  • Pancia Classica 5a
  • O Giglio Mio 6a
  • Vecchia Volpe 6a
  • Mickey Mouse 6a+
  • Pancia Casarotto 6b+
  • Margherita 7a+
  • Odore dei Sogni 7a+
  • Sogni d’Oro 7b+
  • Oro Puro 7b/c
  • Arco d’Oro 7c
  • Aguaplano 8b
  • Atomic Café 8a+
  • Master Blaster 7b
  • Vietato l’ingresso 7b
  • Burro e Piombo 6c/7a
  • Rotpunkt di Sera 7a
  • Passo Falso 7c+
  • Scarlet Letter 8a?
  • El Somaro 8a
  • Mare Allucinante 8a/b
  • Falangioni 8b
  • Boomerang 8a
  • Orient Express 7b
  • Durlindana 6c
  • Anny 6c
  • Pistacchio 6b+
  • Spranghe 5b
  • Fly down 7b
  • Diedro della Shrega 5a
  • Haidi 5c
  • Pedro 5a
  • Spigolo della Sbraga 5b
  • Melquiades 6b+
  • Macondo 6b+
  • Marcedonia 6a
  • Etique Etoc 6b
  • Strapiombo della Sbrega 6a
  • Pui dolore per favore 6b+
  • Befana 6c+
  • Eddy 5a
  • Delrio Alimentare 6a+
  • Robbins 6b
  • Pink Panter 6b
  • Grillo Parlante 7a
  • Esperimento ?
  • Scacciapuffi 5a
  • Bala degli Arcobaleni 6a
  • Lo Sgombro 6b
  • Orrenda 6a
  • Excalibur 6a
  • Pippo Pamir 7a
  • Scharura del Sahara 6c+
  • Ginevra 7a+
  • Fly Dreams 7b
  • Trichomonas 6a
  • Aswan 6c+
  • Beverly Hills 6b+
  • Marilyn 6b
  • Fessura 17 6a+
  • Stefanel 6a
  • Coccodrillo Crak 5c
  • Lampo d’Argento 6c
  • Ma Chere 7c
  • Papillon 7b
  • Jubba de Hut 7b+
  • Technicolor 7a
  • Miso Rock 8a
  • Soia Climb 8
  • Mago della Propoli 7a
  • I Want Your Sex 7a
  • Fessura Mariacher 6c
  • Deidro Pilier IV
  • Giosuè 6b+
  • Physical 6b
  • Hot Dog 6a
  • Emmenthal 6c
  • (A+B)/2 6c+

Costalungo Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

COSTALUNGO CLIMBING AREA | VICENZA

Rock Climb Italy, Costalungo climb

Costalungo was developed several years ago, and it is a great surprise.  From an old mining areas, but this area this site has a different vibe offering quality routes on good rock.  The routes are good and as natural as can be after the cutting, which occurred about 100 years ago.  The site sits above the city of Bassano del Grappa on the road leading up to Monte Grappa.  The cliff faces to the south, and this is a great place to climb on a sunny winter day.  You can also enjoy on a late summer evening as well and then head down into Bassano for a glass of wine and snack. 

The weather needs to be cool for the best contact otherwise the rock can feel a bit slick. The setting at the site itself is not the greatest, but walking out onto the trail you have some wonder views of the Veneto Valley.

COSTALUNGO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
LOCATION Monte Grappa
NEAREST TOWN Bassano del Grappa
Rock Climb Italy, Costalungo Map
BEST TIME OF YEAR All year, located at 600 meters elevation it is a nice area in the summer and winter
APPROACH TIME 15 minutes
ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 30 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 6 - 8b (30+ routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  

RECOMMENDED ROUTES

  • Cuore Matto 7c+

Covolo Thiene Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

COVOLO THIENE CLIMBING AREA | VICENZA

Covolo Climbing Site Thiene Vicenza, "Silvio Reffo on "L'Attimo"

Covolo has been a well known area to some of Europe's best climbers for years.  This climbing area hosts some of the hardest routes in the Italy.  Sitting on the southern slopes of the Asiago Plateau, the wall is just above the small Hamlet of Covolo.  There are no facilities in this town and please respect the parking area and utilize the marked trail to reach the wall.

In the past years a few new routes have been bolted on the lower left part of the crag, that are easier and offer a good warm up.  The center section has some of the hardest climbing in the region.  You need to ensure you have a 70 meter rope for most routes, and the overhang makes recovery challenging.  Be ready for a big swing near the bottom or have your belay climb to clean the route, MAKE SURE YOU PLACE A KNOT AT THE END OF YOUR ROPE:

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

COVOLO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
LOCATION Asiago Mountain
NEAREST TOWN Lugo di Vicenza

Rock Climb Italy, Covolo Climbing Site

BEST TIME OF YEAR Spring and Fall (climbing on rainy day)
APPROACH TIME 5 minutes
ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 35 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 5 - 8c (80+ routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  

RECOMMENDED ROUTES

  • Sandra knutchfleck 7a
  • Incantesimo 8a
  • Supertitti 8a+
  • Balla coilupi 8b

Crepe Basse sector | Climbing Belluno Province

CREPE BASSE CLIMBING AREA | BELLUNO

The Crepe basse sits in the middle of the wood near the city of Cortina d'Ampezzo. Perfect place in summer, the routes arrange around 6c but very high.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

Crepe Basse Climbing Guide

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Belluno
GEOGRAPHY Cortina d'Ampezzo
BEST TIME OF YEAR
summer
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
81
RANGE OF GRADES
from 4a to 7c
HEIGHT 20-25m

routes

From left to right

Zachetac 6b
Sei a millesei 6b
Senza nome 6c
Senza nome 6c
Non c'è tanga che tenga 6c
Cielo duro 6b
Nessuno che rompe 6b
Tettona 6c
Regno di ragno 6b
Cosce che capitano 6b
Primo pelo 6b
Souplesse 6a+
Yabba dabba doo 7a
Busillis 6b
Curve peligrosi 7a
Stress da sas 6c
Senza nome 7a
Visita parenti 5b
Zanzare a zonzo 5b
Fun tomas 5a
Piche peche 4a
Escluso autoveicoli 4a
Troppa troppa 7a
Topless 6b
Stai zitto che non sei altro 6b+
Palle al balzo 6b
Senza nome 6b
Ochi pochiti 5b
Gomma piuma 4b
Promenade 5a
Tipa al top 5b
33 Marzo 6c
Senza nome 6b+
Hoo issa 7c
Senza nome 6c
Senza nome 6c
Sex appeal 7a
Tutto pepe 6c+
Sorci verdi 6b
Uso del buso 6c+
Miss popa 6a
Sembra facile ma non è difficile 6c
Ostrega che mona 6b
Finta di niente 6a
Kappa o 6c
Overdose 6c
Patatrac 6c
Senza nome 6b
Mezza per parte 5a
Follie 7a
Uscita dai gangheri 6c
Brodo di giuggiole 6c
Ghereghereghez 6b
Augh 6b
Senza nome 6c
Senza nome 7a
Buco nell'azona 7a
Paraponzi ponzi pò 6b
Fluido magico 6c
Insostenibile leggerezza 6b+
Trucco di fix 6c
Palpa al centro 6c
Hey bionda 6c
Colta in fallo 6c
Birra media 6c
Poppe a pera 6b
Prese di petto 6c
Spirito di patata 6a+
E così via 6b
Uffa 6b
Mal de panza 6c
Boja chi molla  7a
Gulp 6c
Non plus ultra 6c
Slip slip urrà! 6c
Falsa partenza 6c
Cazzi miei 6b
Ghirigori 4b
Come giovedì 5a
Vespe vispe 5b
Ullallà 6a

Crepe d'Oucera sector | Climbing Belluno Province

CREPE D'OUCERE CLIMBING AREA | BELLUNO

The Crepe d'Oucera it'a a good place to get away from the most popular walls. You can do a good warming up in the first sector, but to climb there you will need agility and strnght in your fingers. In the other two sectors you can challange your resistance.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

Crepe d'Oucere Climbing Guide

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Belluno
GEOGRAPHY Cortina d'Ampezzo
BEST TIME OF YEAR
from April to November
ROCK dolomite
NUMBER OF ROUTES
54
RANGE OF GRADES
from 5a to 8a+
HEIGHT 18-30m

routes

From right to left

Didò 5a
Momo 5c
Go go 6a
Snorki 6a
White line 6b
Uomini gatto 6b
Klamera 6c
Melassa 6b
P38 6a+
Latte acido 6b+
Panada 5a
Fedora 6a
Pikindolor 6c
Profumo di donna 6c
Odore di sudore 6c
Delirio cosmico 6a
Cuba libre 7b+
Gin fizz 7b+
Senza nome 7a+
Tequila gold 7a
Lemon vodka 7b
Whisky and soda 7a
Magica armonia 7b+
Schizofrenica follia 7c+
Patapunfete 7a+
Fisiognomica 8a+
Rebus 7b+
Spittaggio confuso 6c
Senza nome 7a+
Senza nome 7b
Senza nome 7b+
Senza nome 6c+
Babuska 7a+
Sesso perverso 7b+
Delta force 7b+
Spit rossi 7c/c+
Attiti babao 8a+
Senza nome 7c
Arcobaleno 7b+
Spigolo 7b+
Diedro 6b+
Polifemo 7a+
Depressione 7b+
Serpente piumato  
Senza nome 6b+
Senza nome 6b+
Senza nome 6b+
Senza nome 6c
Senza nome  
Senza nome  
Polvere  
Dita di burro 7b+
Senza nome 7b+
Ultima tentazione 7b+
Senza nome 7a+

Eremo sector | Lumignano climbing area Vicenza Province

EREMO SECTOR | LUMIGNANO CLIMBING AREA

The Eremo sector is one of the most popular in Lumignano, on the way to the Eremo of S.Cassiano. The wall has plenty of routes of almost all difficulty levels. Coming up from the town of Lumignano, at the very left there is the path which brings to the American sector

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

EREMO CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
GEOGRAPHY Lumignano, Colli Berici
BEST TIME OF YEAR
all year
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
59
RANGE OF GRADES
from 5c to 8a+
HEIGHT 30m

routes

From left to right

Capelli d'argento 6a
Mefisto 6a
Yama 6a
Montales 6b
El Morisco 7b
Kit Carson  
Lilith 6b
Dialbero 6a+
Zhenda 5c
Kit Willer 5c
Aquila della notte 5c
Ansia 6a
Fori cadenti 6b/c
Passera solitaria 7b
Perforazioni maniacali 7c
Lo chiamerò Attila 7c+/8a
La mamma degli strapiombi 7a
Dilatazione 6c+
Wet 7b
Danza dei trichechi 6c+
Bloody bastard 6c
Aviopenìa 6c
Antro muschioso 6b/c
Umori interni 6a+
Cannette 5c/6a
Rob's ass 6a+
Coprofagia 5c+
Pedofilia 5c+
Aracnofobia 6b
Le leggi di Murphy 6b
Il risveglio di un dio minore 6b+
Paradisi perduti 6a+
Necrofilia 6b+
Onanismo 6b
Al grullo spennato 6a+
Lo spennagrulli 6b+
Aride bambine 6b+
Mani di mago 6c+
Buchi bagnati 7a
Stacca sta pompa 7b
Variante bea Venessia 8a+
Priapismo 7c+
Flash Goldon 8a
Carcasse fumanti 7a
Variante carogna 7b+
Burro e tonno 6c+/7a
L'albero delle zoccole 6c+/7a
Casalingue 6c-
Holiday in Cambodia 6a+
Polluzioni notturne 7a
Canna che ti passa 6b+
Capitoni coraggiosi 7a
Superfrancesca 7a+
Il succhio selvaggio 7b+
My friend Johnny 7b
La bella addormentata 7b/c
Luna comanche 6a
Lamento forever 6a
Caterpillar 6c+

Erto Climbing Area, Pordenone Province

ERTO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | FRIULI VENEZIA REGION

Erto Rock Climbing Site Italy

Erto climbing area  is located just above the famous Vajont Dam near the town of Longarone, in northern Italy. The climbing area is very particular in style and it takes a day to adjust to the types of movement. Many of the classic routes are very polished. The are has two sections. The "No Big" area allows multipule levels of climbers to enjoy the area. The classic sector has very hard climbs and can be climbed even on rainy days.

ERTO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Friuli Venezia
PROVINCE Pordenone
NEAREST TOWN Longarone
GEOGRAPHY  
BEST TIME OF YEAR Spring and Fall
TYPE OF ROCKS Dolomite
HEIGHT 35 meteres
NUMBER OF ROUTES 100+
RANGE OF GRADES 5 to 8c
LENGTH OF ROPE 70 metere
SPECIAL GEAR  

 Classic Sector Routes are listed Right to Left

1 Melamania 6b
2 Paghin 6b
3 Gigia 6b+
4 Ricotta ??
5 Miele 7c
6 La capra 6a
7 Saten 7a+
8 Viva le donne 6c+
9 Viva la cassana 7b
10 Saputella 7a+
11 Tramonto rosso 7a+
12 Dressage ??
13 Occhi bugiardi 6b+
14 El passo 7b
15 Iron Butterfly 7a+
16 No comment ??
17 Gigi megagalattica 7c+
18 Ping pong 7c
19 R.E.M. 7c+
20 Tortuga 7b
21 Poltergeist 8a
22 Spiritomba 7c
23 La canna i ragazzi dello zoo di Erto 7a+
24 Joker 8a
25 Il ritorno di Ringo 8b
26 Agna Menia 8a+
27 Sperandio 6b+
28 La nipote 6c
29 Broocklin 6c+
30 Freedent 7a+
31 Super Phoenix 7b
32 The mission 6c
33 Var. The mission 7c
34 Sandriccio 7c+
35 Osa e riposa 8a
36 Erto express 8b
37 Mano di clown 6c
38 Dito di clown 7a
39 Cassiopea 7b+
40 Ombra del dubbio 7a+
41 La conchiglia 8a
42 Supervip 7c
43 9 ottobre plastic day 8a
44 Bricolages 8a+
45 Sogni di gloria 8b
46 The Big Mother 9a
47 The last way 8c
48 Pole position (Lunga: Mocho) 8a
49 Tucson 8a
50 Mister Rase 8b
51 Var. Mr Rase 7a
52 Cicutina 8a
53 Stricnina 8a
54 Lucrezia Borgia 7b
55 Ombre atomiche 6c+
56 L’ertana 7c
57 Tropicana 7c
58 Diretta Pip- crash 7b
59 Pip- crash 6c+
60 Colpo di grazia 7b
61 Acido lattico 7c
62 Testimonio silenzioso 8a
63 Nothing life 7c
64 Fumogena 7c
65 Il mago del gelato 8a+
66 La mela di Odessa 7b+
67 Coco slip 7b
68 Manolesta 7a+
69 Libellula rosa 7a+
70 Telefono 6c+
71 La passera 6c
72 W Mao 6b+
73 Pipistrelli 6c+
74 Contessa 7a
75 Principessa 7b
76 Duchessa 7a+
77 Alien 6b+
78 Papillon 6c
79 Mata Hari 6b
80 Pensionati 6a+
81 Molina 6b+
82 Orzoro 6c
83 Tapioca 7b
84 Filo da torcere 7b
85 Venerdì santo 5a
86 Sisto 5a
87 Bingo bongo 7b
88 Giochi di pietra 7a
89 Ice 6c+
90 Slap 6c

Falesia di Donnas/Bistecca-Cubo | Guida di arrampicata in Valle d'Aosta

FALESIA DI DONNA | GUIDA DI ARRAMPICATA IN VALLE D'AOSTA

La falesia di Donnas si compone del settore Donnas e del settore Bistecca-cubo. La parete principale, Donnas, è strapiombante e abbastanza alta da permettere tiri di resistenza, la chiodatura è ottima e non lontana e il settore è anche provvisto di vie più rilassanti che non superano i 15 metri.

Oltrepassata la parete di Donnas si trovano la Bistecca, che richiede un'arrampicata tecnica sui piedi ma di difficoltà abbordabile, e il Cubo, il quale è ancora in via di creazione.

Questa guida vuole aiutare i novizi arrampicatori. Per informazioni più aggiornate consigliamo sempre di prendere la guida della zona.

GUIDA ALLA FALESIA DI DONNAS

REGIONE Valle d'Aosta
PROVINCIA Aosta
ZONA IN CUI E' SITUATO Donnas
PERIODO IDEALE da marzo a novembre
TIPO DI ROCCIA gneiss
CHIODATURA ottima a resina
NUMERO DI VIE 62
GRADO DI DIFFICOLTA' da 4c a 8b
ALTEZZA PARETE 25m
ATTREZZATURA CONSIGLIATA 15 rinvii
GUIDA  

VIE DELLA FALESIA

Da sinistra a destra

Pioggia di luce 6c
Baby yar 7b
Doctor Larduss 7c
Atto di forza 7b
Buon compleanno 7b+
Non sono un fachiro 7b+
Black angel 7b+
Faith 8a
Mephisto 7c
Giudecca 7c/7c+
Shining 7a
Possession 7b
No ai murales 7b
Istambul 6c+
The walk 6a+
Il fungo magico 6c
The end 6c+
La imalaika 6b
Gaspacio 6c
Maneggiare con cura 6a+
Magna zita 6a
Servizio incivile 6b/6b+
Passo felpato 6c+
Brevetto di volo 6c/6c+
Sakè 7a
Mani bucate 6c
Diedro spompato 6a
Locale gay 6a+
Volpini volanti 6b+
Fagiolini volanti 7a
Confessioni di una novizia 7b+
Lipstik 5c
Stati di allucinazione 6b+
Wild bunch 6b
Sogni proibiti 4b
Diedrino 4c
Poliestere 6c
Delirium tremens 6c
Senza nome 6b
J.S. 5c
Senza nome 6a
Adrenaline 6a
Pane per il ghiro 6b
Sasquash 7c/7c+
Progetto ?
La creatura 8b
Progetto ?
Progetto ?
Asintoto obliquo 8a+
La foufouille 7b+
Come un anelide 6c
Tomba la bomba 6b

Falesia di Leverogne | Guida di arrampicata in Valle d'Aosta

Falesia di Leverogne | Guida di arrampicata in Valle d'Aosta

La falesia di Leverogne, un tempo in voga tra i climber professionisti, è oggi una falesia di tutto rispetto sulla quale testare i passaggi a blocco su piccoli appigli che tanto avevano interessato i climber del decennio scorso.

Questa guida vuole aiutare i novizi arrampicatori. Per informazioni più aggiornate consigliamo sempre di prendere la guida della zona.

GUIDA ALLA FALESIA DI LAVEROGNE

REGIONE Valle d'Aosta
PROVINCIA Aosta
ZONA IN CUI E' SITUATO Arvier
PERIODO IDEALE da marzo a novembre
TIPO DI ROCCIA gneiss
CHIODATURA buona
NUMERO DI VIE 28
GRADO DI DIFFICOLTA' da 6a a 8a+
ALTEZZA PARETE 10-18m
ATTREZZATURA CONSIGLIATA 15 rinvii
GUIDA  

VIE DELLA FALESIA

Da sinistra a destra

Specchio dei tempi 7a+
Hell's bells 7b+
Dark cristall 7a
Metallica 7b
Coca cola  kid 7c+
Tragicomicart 6b+
Mimica comica 7a+
Cocuna 6b+
San Pedro ?
Ugo a go go 7a
Equilibres fugaces 6a
Antartica 6c
Super alkolica 6c
Pablos 7a
Legend 7b
Summer time 7c
Fantascienza 7a
La prova 6c
Physique du role 7a
Di Marino ?
Orion 7c+
Rank xerox 8a
Fever of power 6b
Heroes 7a+
Vampirella 7c
Jerico 8a+
Anpi danpi 7c+
Yomo 7a

Falesia di Mesaroz | Guida di arrampicata in provincia di Belluno

FALESIA DI MESAROZ | BELLUNO PROVINCE

La falesia di Mesaroz nasce da una frana di 2kmq, ai piedi del monte Cima Pape. Si compone di nove aree, ognuna di uno o due massi, dislocate nel bosc ai piedi del monte, raggiungibili dal paesino di Chioit. Lo stile di scalata è molto vario, sia a causa della mutazione dell'inclinazione della parete sia della morfologia dei sassi, e permette quindi di sbizzarrirsi su itinerari di varia lunghezza.

Questa guida vuole aiutare i novizi arrampicatori. Per informazioni più aggiornate consigliamo sempre di prendere la guida della zona.

GUIDA ALLA FALESIA DI MESAROZ

REGIONE Veneto
PROVINCIA Belluno
ZONA IN CUI E' SITUATO Bogo
PERIODO IDEALE da maggio ad ottobre
TIPO DI ROCCIA calcarea
CHIODATURA molto buona
NUMERO DI VIE 52
GRADO DI DIFFICOLTA' da 5c a 7c+
ALTEZZA PARETE 10-20m
ATTREZZATURA CONSIGLIATA 10 rinvii
GUIDA  

VIE DELLA FALESIA

Da sinistra a destra

Pink Floyd ?
Rock'n'roll ?
Samba 7a
Ballo del qua qua 7b
Flamengo 7a
Tango 7a+
Valzer 7a+
Liscio 7a+
Polka  
Passo double 7b
Mazurca  
Ranieri superstar 6b
Ghiri gori 5c
La cresta del gallo 6b
Mani di fata 7b
C'era una volta 6c
Calpital game 6c
Mi e ti 6a+
Gli antenati 6a+
Rock story 6c+
Nazgul 7a+
Luna park 7a+
Tornado  
Tutto storto 7c
Grasa 7b+
Boia 6c+
Slaia 7a+
Sgaia  
Fringuello  
Upupa 6c
Cincia bigia  
Crosnober 7a+
Passera scopaiola 7b+
Lucherino 5c
Cuculo 5c
Malaria 6c
Cancrena 7a+
Lebbra 7c+
Colera 6b+
Opossum 6b+
Trazione integrale 7a
Arti marziali 7b
Zarch 5c
Incenso 6b
Oro 5c
Mirra 6a
Madona 5c
Catechismo 5b
Cobra 6c+
Mamba 7b+
Boa  
Pitone  

Falesia di Mon Ross | Guida di arrampicata in Valle d'Aosta

 FALESIA DI MON ROSS | GUIDA DI ARRAMPICATA IN VALLE D'AOSTA

La falesia di Mon Ross ha subito un notevole lavoro di rifinitura e manutenzione: le vie sono state attrezzate con ottime chiodature a resina, ma soprattutto è stata messa in sicurezza la base della parete, con tronchi piazzole per assicurare e corde metalliche fisse per raggiongere senza pericolo alcune parti un po' scoscese.

Questa guida vuole aiutare i novizi arrampicatori. Per informazioni più aggiornate consigliamo sempre di prendere la guida della zona.

GUIDA ALLA FALESIA DI MON ROSS

REGIONE Valle d'Aosta
PROVINCIA Aosta
ZONA IN CUI E' SITUATO Ozein
PERIODO IDEALE da aprile ad ottobre
TIPO DI ROCCIA calcare
CHIODATURA ottima a resina
NUMERO DI VIE 50+
GRADO DI DIFFICOLTA' da 5c a 8a
ALTEZZA PARETE 15-25m
ATTREZZATURA CONSIGLIATA 15 rinvii
GUIDA  

VIE DELLA FALESIA

Da sinistra a destra

Super 5c
Per incominciare 5c
Clessidre 5b
La diagonale 6b
Relax 6a+
Senza nome 6b
Pensieri 6a+
Balla coi buchi 7b
Ambra calcarea 7b+
L'iguana 7b+
I discorsi del presidente 7a
Paprika 6c
Tramonto tremante 6c+
L'intrusa 6a
Dove osano le rondini 7a
Pan di zucchero 6b+
Tira molla 6c
Fatelo con gas 6b
Shampoo in polvere 6a+
Prima via 6a+
Gambe in spalla 5c
Petardi a colazione 5c
Buco fasullo 6b
Sembra facile 6b
Samba 6b+
Ramba 6b
Rimba 6a+
Rebus 6b+
Doppio malto 6b+
Stress 7a+
La danza del sorcio 6c
Ultima chance 7a
New Sila 7b+
Il muro di Lamezia 7c
Le travers du blond 6a+
Black Jack 7a
Fior di bosco 6c+
Piccolo nose 6c+
Poker 6c
Sapore di marcio 5c
Evi 92 6a
Il canto del Greup 6b+
Sudoriparo 6b+
Bananarama 6b
Tempo grigio 6b+
Hemmental 6a+
Corinne 6a+
Falangi roventi 6c
Cenere 7b
Ghost dancing 7a+
Paragnosta 6b
Piedi di fata 6a+

Falesia di Sasso di Caleda - Pera | Guida di arrampicata in provincia di Belluno

FALESIA DI SASSO DI CALEDA | BELLUNO PROVINCE

La falesia di Caleda-Pera sbuca dal manto erboso e da essa sgorga acqua di sorgente, raccolta in un abbeveratoio che funge da fontana. Le vie sono ricche di altezze e stili differenti e il settore è ben mantenuto, impegnamoci quindi a tenerlo pulito!

Questa guida vuole aiutare i novizi arrampicatori. Per informazioni più aggiornate consigliamo sempre di prendere la guida della zona.

GUIDA ALLA FALESIA DI Caleda - pera

REGIONE Veneto
PROVINCIA Belluno
ZONA IN CUI E' SITUATO Agordo
PERIODO IDEALE estate
TIPO DI ROCCIA dolomia
CHIODATURA molto buona
NUMERO DI VIE 28
GRADO DI DIFFICOLTA' da 6a a 8a
ALTEZZA PARETE 10-20m
ATTREZZATURA CONSIGLIATA 10 rinvii
GUIDA  

VIE DELLA FALESIA

Da sinistra a destra

Raspa climb ?
Il ritorno di Sergio 7a+
Makonde 7b
Baboska 7b
Donna Diavolo 7a
Jenna 7b
Donald Duck 7b+
Dolomia Tremulis 7a+
Miss Caleda 7c+
Stati di agitazione 6c+
Ivan Desinovich 6c+
El Cumbre 6c
Buena suerte 6b+
Olof 7a+
Soweto 6c+
Garibaldi zoo 6c+
Stanislao Mowlinski 6b
Niagara 6a
Pentarello 6b
Senza nome ?
Acida ?
Uomo finito 6a
Calcolo numerico 6b
Crimini del cuore 6c
Stone Haven 7a+
La minorenne 7a+
Ecce Homo 7b+
Ghisao 8a

Falesia di Tetto di Sarre | Guida di arrampicata in Valle d'Aosta

FALESIA DI TETTO DI SARRE | GUIDA DI ARRAMPICATA IN VALLE D'AOSTA

La falesia di Tetto di Sarre era inizialmente una palestra artificiale,trasformata ora in una difficoltosa parete da scalare. Le vie richiedono infatti un'arrampicata particolarmente atletica e sono strutturate a rate, con difficoltà progressiva.

Questa guida vuole aiutare i novizi arrampicatori. Per informazioni più aggiornate consigliamo sempre di prendere la guida della zona.

GUIDA ALLA FALESIA DI TETTO DI SARRE

REGIONE Valle d'Aosta
PROVINCIA Aosta
ZONA IN CUI E' SITUATO Sarre
PERIODO IDEALE da marzo a ottobre
TIPO DI ROCCIA gneiss
CHIODATURA ottima a resina
NUMERO DI VIE 9
GRADO DI DIFFICOLTA' da 7a a 8b/b+
ALTEZZA PARETE 10-25m
ATTREZZATURA CONSIGLIATA 15 rinvii
GUIDA  

VIE DELLA FALESIA

Da sinistra a destra

La pista degli elefanti 7a
Madre Coraggio 7b
Sogno 7c/c+
Hell 8a+
Smalto 7b
Parsifal 8a/b
Sarre 2000 7a+
Kabuki 7c
Cruditèes perverses 7b

Falesia Pilastro Lomasti | Guida di arrampicata in Valle d'Aosta

FALESIA PILASTRO LOMASTI | GUIDA DI ARRAMPICATA IN VALLE D'AOSTA

La falesia di Pilastro Lomasti è una parete che si slancia senza interruzioni per 200 metri, che grazie alle sue mille sfaccettature offre ai climbers un coktail di varietà di movimenti che rendono l'arrampicata sempre stimolante.

Questa guida vuole aiutare i novizi arrampicatori. Per informazioni più aggiornate consigliamo sempre di prendere la guida della zona.

GUIDA ALLA FALESIA DI PILASTRO LOMASTI

REGIONE Valle d'Aosta
PROVINCIA Aosta
ZONA IN CUI E' SITUATO Arnad
PERIODO IDEALE da maggio ad ottobre
TIPO DI ROCCIA gneiss
CHIODATURA discreta
NUMERO DI VIE 12
GRADO DI DIFFICOLTA' da 6a a 7a+
ALTEZZA PARETE 60-200m
ATTREZZATURA CONSIGLIATA 15 rinvii
GUIDA  

VIE DELLA FALESIA

Da sinistra a destra

Nouvelle saison 6a/b+
Coda di fango 6a+
Pilier Parlier 6a/b
Framarin-Arcaro ?
Passaggio a nord-ovest 6a/c
Choc-o-drill 6a/b+
La Rossa e il Vampirla 6a
Control...e vai tranquillo 6a/c
Lomasti 5b/6a
Sylvie 6b/c+
Verde Milonga 6a/7a+
Vertigine 6b/7a
Mamma li turchi 6a+/7a+
Cliffremiti 6b/7a

Falesie del Forte Climbing Area, Verona Province

FALESIE DEL FORTE ROCK CLIMBING AREA | VERONA PROVINCE

Falesie del Forte Climbing Site Italy

Falesia del Forte is a nice cliff north of Verona that sits above the Adige Valley. The routes are well bolted and the atmosphere nice and quite. If you are looking for an off the beaten path crag this is a good day away from the masses. Also in the area is part of the Italian fort system built in the late 1800's to defend against the Austrian Empire.

FALESIE DEL FORTE CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Verona
NEAREST TOWN Verona
GEOGRAPHY Monte Baldo
ORIENTATION East
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 80
NUMBER OF ROUTES 40+
RANGE OF GRADES 4c-7b
LENGTH OF ROPE 60 meters
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT  
   

Recommended routes:

  • Benergy 6a+
  • Tubotendini 7a
  • Ciuffoletta 6a
  • Diva 7b+
  • La prova 8a+
  • Garda climb 6a+
1 Heidi

4a

2 Il ritorno di Geo

5a

3 Caldo bestiale

6b

4 Pin pin

6a

5 Zot shot

6a

6 Nebbione infernale

6b+

7 Dolce melodia

6a+

8 Potenza ed equilibro 6b
9 Zin zinzimi 6a+
10 Capelli ritti 6b+
11 Stramanolo 6c+
12 Sigagnola club 7a+
13 Only diei 7a
14 Totentanz 6c
15 Narcisus 6c
16 Torno come fan molti 6c
17 Lebedige stunden 6c
18 Diedro fessura 6a
19 Sixaplus 6a+
20 Alba encantada 6b
21 Tanita 7b+
22 Perla ?
23 Merci, pas des 7b
24 SOS 6a+
25 Bingo bongo 5c
26 Probabile incontro 4b
27 Ali baba 5a
28 Spitfire 6a
29 Via di sotto 4b
30 La piora 5a
31 Margy 6a+
32 Incredibile Hunk ??
33 fatsy 5c
34 Ombre della sera 5b
35 L'amico 6b
36 Lpertensione 6b
37 Annita 6a+
38 Lucertola volante 6c
39 Sorvegliate i ladri 6c+
40 Incongnita 5b
41 Morgana 6a+
42 Tendini inox 6a
43 Estetic dance 6a

Finale Climbing Area, Savona Province

FINALE ROCK CLIMBING AREA | TUSCANY REGION

finale liguria

Rock climbing at Finale first became popular in 1970's and 1980's and quickly built a reputation as "the" place to go sport climbing in Italy. In recent years it has become more popular again due to the recent activity in opening many new areas and routes. The area of Finale Ligure offers fantastic diverse sports climbing of great quality and character, with over 20 crags offering over 2000 routes. There is everything from single pitch sports routes to multi-pitch bolted routes up to 250m long, both inland and at the coast near Capo Noli.

FINALE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Liguria
PROVINCE Savona
NEAREST CITY Finale Ligure
GEOGRAPHY Italian Alps
BEST TIME OF YEAR All Year
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 300 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 4-8b
LENGTH OF ROPE 70 meter
EQUIPMENT 15 quick-draws (3-4 extra slings)
GUIDE BOOK  

 

 SECTORS

Rock Climb Italy, Finale Climbing Secotrs

1. Caprazoppe
2. Rocce dell'Orera
3. Parelina di Finalborgo
4 Rocca di Perti
5 Placcedelle Case Valle
6 PareteDimenticata
7 Monte Sordo
8 Pian Marino
9 Bric Scimarco
10 Tre Frati
11 Bric Grigio
12 Kattedrale
13 Konvento
14 Bric del Frate
15 Bric Pianarella
16 Bric Spaventaggi
17 Monte Cucco
18 Rian Cornei
19 Val di Nava
20 Bationata di Boragni
21 Lacremia
22 Bric Reseghe
23 Casa dei Vacche
24 Rocca degli Uccelli
25 Rocca di Corno
26 Le Manie
27 Capo Noli

Fungala Sector | Lumignano Climbing Area Vicenza Province

FUNGAIA SECTOR | LUMIGNANO ROCK CLIMBING AREA

The Fungaia sector is a little wall of Lumignano.

Remember to buy the local guide to have more informations.

FUNGALA CLIMIBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
GEOGRAPHY Lumignano, Colli Berici
BEST TIME OF YEAR
all year
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
19
RANGE OF GRADES
from 5b to 7a
HEIGHT 15m

ROUTES

From left to right

El paio 7a
El siro 7a
Senza nome 7b
El salto del coguaro 6a+
Senza nome 5c
Senza nome 6b+/6c
Senza nome 6a+
Senza nome 5c
Senza nome 5c
Senza nome 5c+
Meravigliaio 6a+
Mariaco 6b
Variante Mariaco 6b
Centrale 6b
Giuditta 6b
Bonita 6a
Sabrina 6a
Senza nome 5b

Gogna sector | Climbing Vicenza Province

GOGNA ROCK CLIMBING AREA | VICENZA

The Gogna sector is a small wall in Gogna area which as been developed as a rock gym where many climbers train their self to spend the summer climbing on the Dolomites. However, between the last few years there are more and more young climbers who are experiencing boulder in Gogna sector.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

Gogna Climbing Guide

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
GEOGRAPHY Berici Hills
BEST TIME OF YEAR
spring and fall
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
7
RANGE OF GRADES
from 5 to 7c+
HEIGHT 25m

routes

From left to right

Traversata alta V+
Tetto di Bepi Soia VII
Tetto classico VII
Amelia VII
Il tetto di Comici VII
Fessura Sonia V+
Diedro giallo V

 

 

Igne sector | Climbing Belluno Province

IGNE ROCK CLIMBING AREA | BELLUNO

Igne sector is surrounded by a small wood and the atmosphere is tranquil. The routes instead are builted up as a continuos changing of style of climbing that makes the first approach anything but easy.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

IGNE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION

Veneto

PROVINCE Belluno
GEOGRAPHY Igne
BEST TIME OF YEAR
from October to March
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
29
RANGE OF GRADES
from 5c to 7c+
HEIGHT 25m

routes

From right to left

Off limits 7a
Achung banditen 7c
Animal Hamaguchi 7c
Chico Mendez 8a
Tony Hinoki 8a+
Movimenti tellurici 8c
Mastro lindo 8b
Mamorinco 7a+
Look dell'uomo taloc 8a
Topocho 6c
Pocho gigio 8a
I fratelli Bolivar 6b+
Skorpion 6a+
Avulso vital 7c
Ve denunce 7c
Bradipo 7a+
Jack bionde 7a
Buck la peste 6c+
Lothar 8b
Mandrake 7c
Eccebombo 7b+
Sgarba igenica 7b
La prozela da scaotes 7c
Magna pupole 6c
Amorino 6b+
Harold 6b
Fred Buscaglione 6c+
Pacho street 6c+
Gaibur 7a
Aspis 6c
Pupi pupi 7a
Polenta e sciavis 7a+
Ti rullo di cartoni 7a
Ipersuini 7b+
Mungi mungi 6c+
Il ritorno di Bonimba 6c+
Il figlio di Lumumba 7a+
Little tonno 7c+
Riders on the storm 8a+
Stormy days 7c+
W i scarpet 7c+

Il Gabellaccia Climbing Area, Carrara-Massa Province

IL GABELLACCIA ROCK CLIMBING AREA | TUSCANY REGION

Rock Cilmbing Italy, Gabellaccia Site

The Gabellaccia climbing site is located along the Genova to Livorno highway.  It is a large limestone wall that is still being developed.  When I visited a few years ago there were several good routes on quality rock, with plenty of additional space to expand.  The site sets well above the valley at 900 meters in a quite area. 

IL GABELLACCIA ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Tuscany
PROVINCE Carrara-Massa
CLOSEST TOWN Sarzana
GEOGRAPHY Apennine Mountains
BEST TIME OF YEAR  All Year
APPROACH TIME  20 minutes
ROCK  Limestone
HEIGHT  100 meters
RANGE OF GRADES  5 - 8c (50+ routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  
   

RECOMMENDED CLIMBS

  • N.R.B.Q. 7a+
  • Sopravoliamo 6a
  • Nosfigatus 7c+
  • L'amico delgiaguaro 7b

Il Giardino delle occasioni perdute Climbing Area - Dro, Sarche

IL GIARDINO DELLE OCCASIONI PERDUTE CLIMBING AREA- DRO

GETTING THERE

From Arco by car 21 km, then 15 minutes on foot. 
From the bridge over the river Sarca follow the indications to Trento - Madonna di Campiglio towards Sarche. Continue beyond Pietramurata (12.2 km), pass over the river Sarca and continue in the direction of Madonna di Campiglio/ Sarche. At the roundabout continue straight ahead passing the Centro Commerciale Sarche on the left and the climbing shop Ferrino Vertical Sport on the curve. 
Now follow the directions to Trento following the shore of Lake Toblino. After the lake, just before crossing the bridge, turn left following the indications to Santa Massenza. Pass through the village, under a portico, and continue for another 300 metres parking on the left next to the cemetery. Now on foot, return back towards the village and enter the first small road on the right. Continue uphill going by an evident yellow ochre house, and always uphill a dirt road sets off among the countryside. Continue till you reach a small corrugated iron construction. From here, on the right a path which diagonally uphill to the right, joins up with another well marked fiat path. Turn left here and after 10 metres on the right you will see the crag. 
 
ROUTES
 
Linfomane      ?     
Top gun ?
E' meglio usare l'attak ?
Dulcis in fundo 6a
La danza immobile 7a
La pozione di ma 6b
Ascelle deliranti 6c+
Impatto fatale 7a+
Consapevolezza 6c+
La febbre del ragno rosso       7b       
Il bosco delle nuvole 6c+
Papa was a rolling stone 6c+
Il giardino delle occasioni perdute      6b
Poli spiritosi 6b
Dead can dance 6c
Quarantaviezig 6a+
Ritmi solari 6a+
Ode ai barbari 6b
Pocimania 6a
Ssenza ma 6b+

La finestra Climbing Area - Dro, Sarche

LA FINESTRA CLIMBING AREA - DRO, TRENTO

GETTING THERE

From Arco by car 21 km, then 20 minutes on foot. From the bridge over the river Sarca follow the lndtcations to Trento Madonna di Campiglio towards Sarche. Continue beyond Pietramurata (12,2 km), pass over the river Sarca and continue in the direction of Madonna di Campiglio/ Sarche. At the roundabout continue straight ahead passing the Centro Commerciale Sarche on the left, and the climbing shop Ferrino Vertical Sport on the curve. Now follow the directions to Trento following the shore of Lake Toblino. After the lake, just before crossing a bridge, turn left following the indications to Santa Massenza. Pass through the village, under a portico. and continue for another 300 metres parking on the left next to the cemetery. Now on foot, return back along the road and take the ftrst road on the right. Continue past some houses until a path on the right that climbs diagonally to meet a level and well marked path. Take this on the right and continue for 3 minutes to arrive at a second junction signposted Margone-Scal. Enter the junction ascending for 200 metres until a rocky slab (on the right) with old pegs and a large red spot. From here, leave the path and continue along the level track on the left to the foot of the crag

ROUTES

Without name      7c+      
Verde sgrondo 7b+
Ulan bator 7a+/b
Touch and go 7c+
Egomaniac kid 8a
Un attimo 7b+
Super barrio 7c
Marziano ti amo 7c
Potato crispies 7b
Trasloco forzato 7a
Dalla terra alla luna         7a
Tra zero e 8000 6c+
Conquistatori dell'inutile       7a
E' buio sul ghiaccio 7a+
Fottiti bastardo 7b+
Without name ?
Without name ?
Sotodo Mike 7b+
Without name ?
Without name ?

Laggio Alta sector | Climbing Belluno Province

LAGGIO ALTO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | BELLUNO

Laggio alta sector, near Laggio di Cadore, offers three different styles of climbing.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

Laggio Alto Climbing Guide

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Belluno
GEOGRAPHY Laggio di Cadore
BEST TIME OF YEAR
from May to October
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
27
RANGE OF GRADES
from 6a to 8a
HEIGHT 20-30m

routes

From left to right

Amadeus 7a
Stress dance 7a
Specchio di Lea 6a
Rambo Rolando  
Transiberiana 7c
Sika 7b+
? 7c
Toio l'avvoltoio 7a
Polenta e osei 7a+
? 7c+
? 7b+
? 7c
?  
? 7c+
? 7b
? 6a
Raindogs 7b
? 7b
? 7b+
Art bizzarre 7c+
? 7b
? 7b+
? 7c
Kharma 7c
Ipazia 8a
U2 7b
? 7b

Loreto Climbing Area, Imperia Province

LORETO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | TUSCANY REGION

Rock Climbing Italy, Loreto Climbing Site Liguria

Loreto and Trova Climbing Sites in the Liguria Region of Italy, are located in the upper part of the Argentina valley.  The climbing site is made up of serval small cliffs withe over 100+ fixed routes.  There are still other small cliffs with 20 or less routes.

LORETO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Liguria
PROVINCE Imperia
NEAREST CITY Imperia
GEOGRAPHY Italian Alps
Rock Climb Italy, Liguria Region
BEST TIME OF YEAR
Spring and Fall
TYPE OF ROCK
Limestone with edges
HEIGHT
140 meters
RANGE OF GRADES
5b - 7c
LENGTH OF ROPE
60 meters
EQUIPMENT
15 quick-draws
GUIDE BOOKS
 

RECOMMENED ROUTES:

  • Lacimi 6b
  • Il Cappello di Eva 5c
  • Tu mi turbi 6c+
  • Vico ale 6a+

Lumignano Climbing Area - Americano Sector

SECTOR AMERCIANO | LUMIGNANO ROCK CLIMBING AREA

Rock Climbing Lumignano Italy, American Sector
Sector Americano at the Lumignano Climbing area, is a section of cliff I saw in 2000 with a great line that looked 100% natural, so I started to bolt the cliff. The first route was Super Freak and when I bolted it was a good solid 8a+ on all natural holds, however after a few other climbers tried the route a key hold broke off. Now I am not 100% sure of the grade but still it is 8a or above. Someone made a one-finger pocket more positive, but otherwise the route has remained the same. Routes to climb at the Americano sector are Rockstar, Fear, and a new project that I have bolted that will go above 8b for sure. I invite anyone who wishes to try the routes to take time to visit this sector.

WHAT IS THE CLIMBING LIKE AT THE AMERICANO SECTOR

All of the primary routes and overhanging and the wall offers good pockets and water grooves,  you need explosive power, but good footwork to climb most of the routes.  There are no real warmups, the easy routes are only a few meters tall and routes I bolted to teach my kids climbing. There is great morning sun in the winter time, and the bowl created from the cliff keeps it fairly warm since you blocked from the wind.  During the summer you are in the shade after 1500 hours, and you can climb until late evening.  The approach is not easy for little kids, but the area under the cliff is idea and safe. 

HOW TO GET TO THE AMERICANO SECTOR

From the parking area walk up the trail to Eremo, once reaching the base of the Eremo Sector follow the wall to your left, just after there is a band of rock that is used as a bouldering area, just for this band of rock you will see a the trail leading up to the Americano Sector.  Be careful sometimes people are rude and use the bathroom along the trails.

 Rock Climbing Italy Lumignano

SECTOR NOTES

EXPOSURE Southeast
NUMBER OF ROUTES  17
ROPE LENGTH  60 meter
APPROACH WALK 15 minutes
   

SUGGESTED ROUTES

Rock Star
Super Freak
Youth Waits for No One
Fear

ROUTES FROM RIGHT TO LEFT

Over and under     6b
Short but sweet     7a+
Rock Star     7b
Youth waits for no one 7c+
Project     ??
B-Slap     7b
Super Freak  8a+
Fear     8b
Andrea's way  7b+
Legend  7a+
Project ??
Cross-eyes 6c+
Split tail 6b
Super Sexy Climbing Chick 6b
Fat Cat     5
Rock groupie 5
Other world 6a

Lumignano Climbing Area the Brojon Strapiombi

BORJON STRAPIOMBI | LUMIGNANO ROCK CLIMBING AREA

Photo of Brojon Strapiombi Rock Climbing Sector

Brojon Strapiombi is also known as the Pardi Sector and is located in a valley, and part of the Lumignano Climbing Area . The sector is a popular destination for climbers looking for routes about the 7a grade.  At the Brojon Overhanging sector there are just over 20 climbs and the average grade is 7b+.  This sector is great to climb in the winter months or late afternoon in the warmer months.  The older routes are very powerful with long dynamic moves.  Some of the newer routes are one move specials that require exceptional finger strength.  Most of this cliff has manufactured holds that have been chipped and glued over the years. The climbing is still very good and this is a popular destination. 

PARDI CLIMBING GUIDE

Routes from Right to Left on the main overhang

  1. Joker 6c+
  2. Pesantone 7a
  3. Ramassage scolaire 7b+
  4. Lord Kerrington 7c+
  5. Il richiamo dei Poldo 7c
  6. Nessun dorma 7b+
  7. Il falco 8b
  8. Project ??
  9. Re Artu 7c+
  10. La grotta 8a
  11. Bravo 8a+
  12. Mr Rawaipindi 7b+
  13. Indigo 7b
  14. Il toro di Pianiga 8a+
  15. Frush Fred 8b
  16. Tosva 8b+
  17. Piccole donne 8a

Routes on the lower lip of the overhang Right to Left

  1. Jazz 8a
  2. Metamorfosi 8a
  3. Maionese 7b
  4. L'0rso 7b+
  5. L'emiliano 7b+

Recommeded Routes

  • Il richiamo dei Poldo
  • La grotta
  • Bravo
  • Mr Rawaipindi

Lumignano Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

LUMIGNANO CLIMBING AREA | VICENZA

lumiignano-italy-climbing

The largest and best developed climbing area in the Vicenza Province is Lumignano, it is located above the town of Lumignano, a small village south of Vicenza and located in the Berici Hills. The numerous cliffs in the valley have been a major climbing destination since the early 1970. At one time Lumignano offered some of the hardest climbs in Italy and routes such as Orient Express, Atomic Cafe, and Arco d'Ora were top projects, on a lot of climbers tick list. Today with so many sites throughout Europe and the expansion of the difficulty rating Lumignano no longer host the hardest routes, but many individuals are surprised at the stiffness of the grades are in the older sectors. Lumignano offers a wide variety of climbs but is not the best area for first time climbers.

I first climbed in Lumignano in 1986 and found the routes to be challenging, the rock top quality, and the village of Lumignano a quite county village. Since that first experience the area has changed, the village has become a community of new subdivisions, there are lots of new sectors to climb, and the rock is very polished on many of the popular routes. However, the area still has a special appeal, the rating for the climbs have not changed and seem stiff compared to other sites in Europe. You can no longer climb in mid-day in July or August and expect to find a good grip and rock texture, and it is a bit more crowded in the town and area. However,there are still great routes to climb and just knowing the season and time of day there are plenty challenges. It is best to forget about grades and stuff and just climb for fun.

LUMIGNANO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto Region
PROVINCE Vicenza Province
LOCATION Berici Hills
NEAREST CITY Vicenza
BEST TIME OF YEAR Climbing All Year
APPROACH TIME 10 minutes
ROCK limestone - red/grey pockets
HEIGHT 150 meters
RANGE OF GRADES
4-8b (300+ routes)

 

GUIDEBOOK/MAP

 

 

Map to the Lumignano climbing area

SECTORS

  1. Classica Sector
  2. Brojon sector
  3. Eremo sector
  4. Sopra la Chiesa (Above the Church) sector
  5. Anfiteatro sector
  6. Piramide sector
  7. Minetti sector
  8. Fungala Sector
  9. Nuova Sector
  10. Brojon Strapiombi
  11. Americano Sector

Marciaga Climbing Area, Verona Province

MARCIAGA ROCK CLIMBING AREA | VERONA PROVINCE

A short cliff that sits on the far side of the Costermano golf course. The routes are well bolted, but the site is only frequented by a few locals. The site is great for beginner climbers and kids.

MARCIAGA CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Verona
NEAREST CITY Verona
GEOGRAPHY Monte Baldo
ORIENTATION Southwest
APPROACH TIME 10 minute
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 10 - 38 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 4c - 7a+
NUMBER OF GRADES 100+
LENGTH OF ROPE 60 meter
   

ROUTES

From left to right

Palestrina 5a
Prima della nascita 4a
Guai in vista 6a+
Senza nome 6a
Senza nome 5a/b
La tana del rospo 5b
Babbo Natale 5c
Crumiri biondi 4a
Pollicino 5b
Febbre gialla 6a
Approccio lassativo 6b
Viva le donne 4a
Annalisa 4a
Fata turchina 4a
Cavallino rosso 4b
Il futuro ha un cuore antico 4c
Carolina 4b
Frenesia 5b
Excalibur 6a
Senza nome 6a+
Pizzamiglio 3c
Glasnot 4a
Lupo Rolandino 6a
Boulder problem  
Anchorage 6a+
BarbaraB. 5a/b
Marciagantropia 5a
Nero su bianco 6b
Lui & Cinzia 3a
Orizzonti fotografici 3c
Stato interessante 6c+
Miciona bella 7a+
Areofagia 6a
Arlecchina 5a/b
Cocco di mamma 6a
Piastrine gialle 4b
Senza nome 6b
Do not disturb 5c
Var.a destra 6a
Tappi e rattoppi 5c
Apparenza 5b
Niet Pezolsky 4c
Negus 4c
Mr. Verde 5b
Oasi 5a
W la mamma 4c
Torbolina 4a
Pilastro giallo 6a+
Il gobbo 7a
Sfinission 5b/c
Biko 6a+
Senza nome 6c
Il sig. Bla Bla 6a/b
Abre magique 6a
Senza nome 5a
Zucca mancante 5a
Bolle di sapone 7a+
La pulce nell'orecchio 5c
Che stress 6b
Graspia 4c
Whisky? No grazie! 5a/b
Ciao Efrem Sanguineto 3b
Gavina 2c
Bacche rosse 4b
Scambiamoci le donne  
Aspettando Lulù 5a
Tracannamenti clandestini 6a+
Pollice verde 5b
Hoherman spitze? Nein danke! 5a
Zirichiltagghia 5a

Mesaroz sector | Climbing Belluno Province

MESAROZ ROCK CLIMBING AREA | BELLUNO

Mesaroz sector was originated from a landslide of 2kmq of Monte Pape. There are nine areas with one or two rocks, each area requires a different climbing style.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

MESAROZ CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Belluno
GEOGRAPHY Bogo
BEST TIME OF YEAR
from May to October
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
52
RANGE OF GRADES
from 5c to 7c+
HEIGHT 10-20m

routes

From left to right

 

Minetti sector | Lumignano climbing area Vicenza Province

MINETTI SECTOR | LUMIGNANO CLIMBING AREA

minetti sector

 

Minetti sector is one of Lumignano climbing sectors, located near the Fungaia wall. The wall is full of very small handholds and a overhanging start.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

MINETTI CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
GEOGRAPHY Lumignano, Colli Berici
BEST TIME OF YEAR
all year
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
58
RANGE OF GRADES
from 5a to 7b
HEIGHT 20-35m

ROUTES

From right to left

L'importante è eiaculare 6b+
Imperfida parete 6c
Liquidi vischiosi 6b/c
Tromboland 6b/c
Solchi sudati 6a+
stati d'usura 6b
Little Pasty 6c
Tobyoshirouramawashi 5c/6a
Torride fessure 6c
Corpi cavernosi 6a+
Gnocca Barocca 6b+
Ea Nosa 7a+
Lingua bollente 6b+
Taras Vulva 6b+
Gli Aristocazzi 6b
Cenerentla 6a
Biancaneve e i sette onani 6b+
Cappuccetto rotto 6a+
N° 100 6c
Mani di merda 6b
Pinko Panko 6b+
In vino veritas 6c
Porky Pig 6b/c
Zorka 6a+
Jacula 6a+
La capanna dello zio Ton 6b+
Sukia 5c
Fuck you 6a
Pat Pong 5c
Selena 5c
Ai uisic iu uer iar 6a+
Ponzio Pilato 6a
Cebion 6b+
Vecio marso 6b
Ciccion de merda 7b
Vecchio cammelo 6b
Henry 6a
Pussy 6a
Folpa 6a+
L'eterna partenza 7a
Picka 6c
Dove osano i ciccioni 6c+
Ladro di polli 7a/b
Bicio Bicio bao bao 7b/c
Delirio di onnipotenza 6c+
Hutja 7a
Herpes 7a
Zoovirax 6a+
Voltaren 6b
Il fondo del barile 6a+
Farabundo marti 5c
Ecce lombo 6c+
The gay after 6a
Il gatto tardo 6a
Apocalipse cow 5b
De bello fallico 5a
Full metal Cian 5a
Bepilove 5a

Monselice sector | climbing area Vicenza Province

MONSELICE ROCK CLIMBING AREA | PADOVA

The Monselice sector is sitted in an old mine cave near the town of Monselice. The wall consists in 47 routes from level 5c to 7c, but most of the climbs are about 6a/b.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

Monselice Climbing Guide

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Padova
GEOGRAPHY Euganei Hills
BEST TIME OF YEAR
winter
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
47
RANGE OF GRADES
from 5 to 7c
HEIGHT 25m

routes

From right to left

Verde mare 1 6b
Verde mare 2 6c
Coming Going 6a+
Big Wall 6a
Via Cechetto 6a
Var. Carpentiere 6a
Via Craxi 6a+
Quarto di luna 6b+
Digo so on bast 6a+
Dinonia 6a
Bibi 6a
Biba 6a
Bibo 6a+
Kao Kao 6b+
Eppur ti amo 6b
Via del Puffo 6b+
Psicho 6b
Diretta del Gracchio 1 6a
Diretta del Gracchio 2 6a
Assicurazioni generali 5+
Paradam 6b
Tzigana 7a+
Sbrissa sbrissa 6b
Eclissi di gioia 6b
Eclissi di sole 6a+
Provaci Sam 7b
Provaci ancora Sam 7b
prova anche questa Sam  
Senza nome 5c
Sturm und Drang 6b
Street of fire 7a
Repetita juvant 6b+
Matti da slegare 6a
La rotta del rum 7c
Mordi la vita 7a
Giù la testa  
Tour de force  
Rapsodia dell'ape 6b
Angela 6a
Nuova Candy 6a
Deja vu' 7a
Torna un sogno 6b+
Via delle luci della città 7c
Senza nome 5c
Cercando un altro Egitto 5
Via dei tre tiri 6a

Monsummano Rossa Climbing Area, Pistoia Province

MONSUMMANO ROSSA ROCK CLIMBING AREA | TUSCANY REGION

Rock Climb Italy, Monsummano Site

Monsummano Rossa is an old quarry area near Montecatini Terme which has become one of the winter sites for climbers in Tuscany.  The area is well protected for the elements and the climbing is on routes well protected.  Most of the climbing tends to be in the middle grade of difficulty but there are plenty of easier climbs to enjoy.  I like the area and would suggest a stop if you are driving from Pisa to Florence. 

MONSUMMANO ROSSA ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Tuscany
PROVINCE Pistoia
NEAREST CITY Monsummano Terme
Rock Climb Italy, Monsummano Climb
BEST TIME OF YEAR  Winter
APPROACH TIME  5 minutes
ROCK  Limestone
HEIGHT  30 meters
RANGE OF GRADES  5 - 8a (50+ routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  

RECCOMENDED ROUTES:

  • Bada bimba 6c
  • Luce da Orione 7b
  • Io speriamo che me lacavo 7c
  • Testae sciroppate 8a

Monte Cimo Climbing Area, Verona Province

MONTE CIMO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | VERONA PROVINCE

Monte Cimo Rock Climbing Site Italy

Driving up the A-22 north of Verona one of the first cliff areas you see from the car is Monte Cimo.  Sitting above the town of Affi and this cliff has several good multi-pitch routes to enjoy.

MONTE CIMO CLIMBING GUIDE

LOCATION Verona Province
Nearest town Affi
Monte Cimo Rock Climbing Site Italy
Major Airport Verona Airport
Public Transportation Yes
Rock Limestone
Height 200 meters
Beauty  
Orientation southeast
Number of Routes 15
Number of Climbing Days 2 days
Route Grades 5-7b
Rope length suggested 60 meter
Equipment suggested 15 quick draws

Recommended routes:

  • Brentinomicon 6b
  • Spigolo del quarto sole 6b
  • Piastrine selvagge 7a
  • Canto del cigno 7a
  • Via dei Doala 7a

    ROUTES

    From left to right
    Sogno di Icaro da 5a a 6c+
    Via dei koala da 5a a 7a
    Te lo dò io il Verdon da 4a a 6c+
    Canto del cigno da 4b a 7a
    Desiderio sofferto da 4a a 5b
    Bruce Springsteen da 6a a 6c+
    Anche per te da 5b a 6a+
    Piastrine selvagge da 6a+ a 7a
    Capitani coraggiosi 6a/b+
    Via Simoncelli 6a/b
    Desir da 5a a 6b
    Mille miglia da Nusco da 4a a 7a+
    Spigolo del quarto sole da 5b a 6b
    Girl da 6a a 6c+
    Brentinomicon da 5b a 6b+

Muzzerone Climbing Area, La Spezia Province

MUZZERONE ROCK CLIMBING AREA | LIGURIA REGION

muzzarone

Great site just south of popular tourist destination of Cinque Terre (5 lands). The climbing is on good quality limestone that sits above the rocky coast of the Ligurian Sea. There are several small sectors, each with a few quality routes, I enjoyed the central wall and the Atlantide sectors. There are plenty of things to enjoy in the area and a few other climbing areas inland in case of poor weather.

MUZZERONE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Liguria
PROVINCE La Spezia
NEAREST CITY La Spezia

Rock Climb Italy, Muzzarone Climb Map

BEST TIME OF YEAR Spring and Fall
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone, pockets and columns
HEIGHT 200 meters
LENGTH OF ROPE 70 meters
EQUIPMENT  15 quick-draws
GUIDE BOOK  

There are several sectors to climb at each has a variety of difficulties and styles

 SECTORS

Rock Climb Italy, Muzzarone Sectors

1. PARETE CENTRALE
2. SPECCHIO and ATLANTIDE
3. GARIMPO
4 POLVERIERA and POLERIERA
5 CAJENNA
6 ORATORIO and PARETE STRIATA
7. MANDRACHIA

Nuova Sector | Lumignano Climbing Area Vicenza Province

NUOVA SECTOR | LUMIGNANO ROCK CLIMBING AREA

Lum Nouva 2

The Lumignano Nuova sector has been re-developed only recently, with plenty of new routes. You will need a good tecnique and strenght to climb here. Part of the area is an old quarry were they use to get blocks to built the Palladio villas in the region.

Remember to buy the local guide to have more informations.

LUMIGNANO NUOVA CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
GEOGRAPHY Lumignano, Colli Berici
BEST TIME OF YEAR
From october to march
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
67
RANGE OF GRADES
from 5b to 8b
HEIGHT 25m

ROUTES

From left to right

Squinsi 6a+
Squonsi 6b
Smigol 5b
Gollum 5b/c
Bristol 5c
Semola (che non sei altro) 5c/6a
Dumbo Jumbo 6a
Baghera 7a
Musica & Magia  
Sir Biss 7c
T come Tigro 7a/b
Kangaroo 6b+
L'avvoltoio 6a+
Tema celeste 5b/c
Perline 6a
Abaribi 6a+
Kenobi - langedai 6c
Il Nano 6b/c
Miss paradiso 7c/7c+
Luce dei miei occhi 8b
Viaggio al centro della Terra 8a+/8b
Tantra 8a/8a+
Non ti fidar di me se il cor ti manca 7c/7c+
Mata Hari 7c
Palacinka 7a/7a+
Colpo in testa 6a+
El Diablo 7c
Nyarlathotep 6a+
Enzima Lisozima 7b/7b+
Taboo 7b/7b+
Vudù 7c+/8a
Baby Birba 5b
Nirvana 7c+
Magicabula 5a
Strapiombix 5a
Turocomanno 5c
Die blaue Blume 6a/6a+
Barracuda 6b+
Ardi cattiva 6a+
Hauanagana 6a+
Iperagana 6b
Hauanaganao 5c
La volè 6a+
Locatastrofe 7c
Secomania 7b+
Se ti perdi tuo danno 7a
Esaurimento 6c+
L'orca  
Biberon 6c/6c+
Africa Bamba 6b+
Laminati 6a+
C.C.C.P.  
Tacchetta Kid 7b
Un biglietto di sola andata  
Le cose cambiano 7a/7b
Ammortamento morale 6c
Bazooko 6b/6c
Cose di pancia 6b
Himalayana 6a+
Sembra facile 6c
F.B.I. 6a
Omegaedro 6b+
Io sono Pinocchio 6c
Onda anomala 7a+
E' stato Gavino 7a
L'ape-ritivo 6a+

Passo Mauria sector | Climbing Belluno Province

PASSO MAURIA ROCK CLIMBING AREA | BELLUNO

The Passo Mauria climbing area is a relatively small wall sitted just above Lorenzago di Cadore.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

Passo Mauria Climbing Guide

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Belluno
GEOGRAPHY Lorenzago di Cadore
BEST TIME OF YEAR
all year
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
30
RANGE OF GRADES
from 6b to 8b
HEIGHT 15-30m

routes

From left to right

Senza nome 7c
Senza nome 7b+
Senza nome 7b
Senza nome 7a
La rampa 6b
Senza nome  
Pusir 7c+
Cavalieri di pietra 7c
Ludwig II 8b
Ya yoga 8a
Kuip 7c+
Senza nome 8a+
Hata yoga 8a+
Conte Pugliè 7b+
Rocco Ciandon 7c
Idolatria 8a+
Chan tzu 8a
Il dubbio 7c+
La prua 8a
Senza nome  
Mirko 7b
Carmen 7a
Senza nome  
Senza nome 7a+
Senza nome 7c+
I Manonegra 8a
Senza nome  
Senza nome 6c
Senza nome 6c

Piramide sector | Lumignano climbing area Vicenza Province

PIRAMIDE SECTOR | LUMIGNANO ROCK CLIMBING AREA

The Piramide sector in Lumignano own its name to the particular shape of the wall, which recalls the image of a pyramid. It's a good place for beginners but it offers also some nice challenges for more experienced climbers.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

PIRAMIDE CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
GEOGRAPHY Lumignano, Colli Berici
BEST TIME OF YEAR
all year
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
32
RANGE OF GRADES
from 3a to 7a
HEIGHT 10-55m

routes

From left to right

Rasta diva 6b
Alpinismo erotico 6a
Capobruco 6b
Le turbe di Silvia 6a
Marrakesh e stress 6a+
Atrazina fatale 6a+
Sendero Luminoso 6b
Sangue Navajo 7a
UP-UP-A 6b+
Tupac Amaru 6b+
Lapp-doll 6c
Penna bianca 6c
I tre giorni del condom 6b+
Kociss 6b
Via del pacco 6a+
Trancia Meccanica 6a+
Abbi fede 6a
Il giardiniere volante 6a
Via i tedesvhi 5a
Geriatrico 6a+
Povere coronarie 6b+
Pulp friction 6b+
Cicci Pasticci 3
Paperino 4
Pippo 5a
Paperoga 5b
Qui Quo Qua 5c
Edy 5b
Gambadilegno 5a
Amelia 5a
Doretta Doremi 4
Paperone 4

Podenzoi Campo sportivo sector | Climbing Belluno Province

PODENZIO CAMPO CLIMBING AREA | BELLUNO

Podenzoi sector is sitted near Longarone. There are about 40 routes form level 6b to 8b which requre a good tecnique and finger strenght.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

Podenzoi Climbing Guide

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Belluno
GEOGRAPHY Longarone
BEST TIME OF YEAR
from April to November
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
40
RANGE OF GRADES
from 6b to 8b
HEIGHT 20-25m

routes

From right to left

I Vatussi 6b
Senza nome 6b
Senza nome 6b
Senza nome 6b
Vibratore a pedali 7b
Morfologica 7a+
Il cassonetto 6b+
Fantasilacqua 6c+
Acquasplash 6b+
Acquarium 6b
Madame de granfal 7a+
Bazar gruppe 7a+
Shock terapie 7b+
Canna rognosa 7b+
Manettoni 7b+
Boja chi molla 7c
Le fatiche di Tantalo 7c
Cara ti amo 7c
Mezzo sigaro 7a
Fetonte 6c
Wally Bully 7a+
Vestivamo all'albanese 6c
Le baccalanti 6c+
Sorpesa finale 7a+
Ti odio Mozambico 7a+
Attilio spezzato 7a+
Retromarcia violenta 6c+
Cannabis 6c
Dirty climb 6c+
Senza nome 7b
Cesarino 8a+
Demian 8b
Killerfingers 8a
Lavori in corso 8a+
Franz Von Gulash 7c+
Microcaccole 8a
Beato Pierino 8a+
Sintetica 8a
Boletus satana 7b+
Girellik 7c

Ponte al piè della Merendera sector | Climbing Belluno Province

PONTE AL PIE DELLA MERENDERA CLIMBING AREA | BELLUNO

The Merendera sector is just below Val Frisòn, and it's perfect to escape from the big climbing areas. In the area there are also many galleries that you can explore if you bring a flashlight.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

Merendera Climbing Guide

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Belluno
GEOGRAPHY S.Stefano di Cadore
BEST TIME OF YEAR
from April to October
ROCK ldolomite
NUMBER OF ROUTES
23
RANGE OF GRADES
from 5b to 7c+
HEIGHT 15-25m

routes

From left to right

Potenza umana 6a
Occhio di falco 6b+
Manie bizzarre 6a+
Low time 6b
Gioventù bruciata 6b+
Biancaneve 6c+
Asterix 7a+
David gnomo 7a+
Zig zag 7b
Ac/Dc 6c+
Sole rosso 7b+
Bella storia 7a+
Boomerang 6c
Avventura 6a+
Batman 6a
Ferragosto'89 6a
La scelta 5b
Disperazione 6a
Troppe weizen 6a+
Hells bells 6b
Nuvola bianca 6c
Tiramisù 7b
Roxette 7a+

Riolo sector | Climbing area Vicenza Province

RIOLO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | VICENZA

The Riolo sector is sitted near the town of Torrebelvicino. The atmosphere is very tranquil and relaxing and is popular for the coexistence of challenging climbs and relatively easy routes.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

Riolo Climbing Guide

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
GEOGRAPHY Torrebelvicino
BEST TIME OF YEAR
from October to April
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
25
RANGE OF GRADES
from 4 to 8a
HEIGHT 25m

routes

From left to right

Senza nome 4a
Senza nome 4a
Senza nome 4a
Dino 5a
Lascia o raddoppia 6c+
Carburo 7c+
Non son degno di te 6b+
Castighi e fastidi 7a+
Salsa piccante 6c+
Skin heads  
Gorilla 6c+
Tritone 6b+
Business 8a
Lascia star 7c+
Spit dipendente 7c
Alien 7c
Super Aldo 7b+
Il bene e il male 7a+
La grima 6b+
Anguana climb 6b
Salbanelo 7b
Oran-gutan  
L'orco 7a
Diedro 5b

Rivoli Climbing Area, Verona Province

RIVOLI ROCK CLIMBING AREA | VERONA PROVINCE

Small wall near the town of Rivoli, seems to be part of an old mining area. The routes are bolted well and routes are fun to climb. The site was worth a day to visit if you are passing by the area.

RIVOLI CLIMBING GUIDE

LOCATION Verona Province
Nearest town Rivoli
Rivoli Rock Climbing Site Italy 
Major Airport Verona Airport
Public Transportation No
Rock East
Height 20 meters
Beauty  
Orientation southwest
Number of Routes 100+
Number of Climbing Days 3 days
Route Grades 5c - 7c
Rope length suggested 60 meter
Equipment suggested 15 quick draws
 
 

Recommended routes:

  • Fessura deglielfi 6a
  • Banana 5c
  • Il trucco 7a+
  • Ombre lunghe 7a
  • Polvere di sogno 7b
  • Abissi 7a+
  • Il signore del muro 7c

    ROUTES

    From left to right
    Fessura degli elfi 6a
    Zio Bistecca 7a
    Hesperus 6a
    Banana split 5c
    Badaben 6a+
    Le mutande di Jonny 5c
    Archetipo 6a
    Jezebel 6b
    Crisalide 7b
    Il trucco c'è 7a+
    Ombre lunghe 7a
    Crick creck 6b
    Polvere di sogno 7b
    Le torpille 7a
    Abissi 7a+
    Aiuto il pescecan 7b
    Il signore del muro 7c
    Highlands 7b
    Mephisto 7b+
    Il sogno di Dalì 6a+
    Ganimede 6a+

Rocca Pendice (Teolo) Climbing Area, Padova Province

ROCCA PENDICE (TEOLO) ROCK CLIMBING AREA | PADOVA PROVINCE

Rock Climb Padova, Rocca Pendice

Rocca Pendice is volcanic cliff located in the Colli Eugenai and has over 300 bolted routes to climb on. The climbing at Teolo (the other name for Rocca Pendice) is technical and takes good footwork and route reading skills. If your style if power climbing you could get 'handed you lunch' at this site, there are many mid ranges climbs that can only be done with technical sequences.

Rocca Pendice is a great area for a 2 -3 days of climbing, sitting just south of the city of Padova and located in the Euganei hills (best know for the hot springs in Abano) there is plenty to do on none climbing days, as a major wine region and protected area the Euganei hills makes for a quite and relaxing area to vacation.

Rocca Pendice rock climbing site offers a great change of pace to the limestone cliffs that dominate the region

ROCCA PENDICE (TEOLO) ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto Region
PROVINCE Padova Province
LOCATION Euganei Hills
NEAREST TOWN Teolo
Rock Climb Teolo, Padova
TYPE OF ROCK Volcanic
HEIGHT 200 meters
NUMBER OF ROUTES 360+ (4 to 8a)
LENGTH OF ROPE NEEDED 60 meter
EQUIPMENT 15 quick draws, some anchors do not have clips
APPROACH TIME 10 minutes
SPECIAL NOTES Not a place to climb if rains. Do not leave valuables in car at parking
GUIDE BOOK  

rocca pendice 14

 

Rocca Pendice Climbing Area the West Wall

ROCCA PENDICE CLIMBING AREA | WEST WALL

Rock Climbing Rocca Pendice Padova

Excellent wall for beginners and those just wanting to relax for the day in a quite environment.  Many of the routes are alpine style and bolts can be a bit far apart, also, many anchors do not have clips so you will need a sling so you can untie and route your rope through. If you want to set up a top rope, you can reach some of the anchors by walking along the upper crest, like wise you can walk off the climb.  Not a good place for small children or if it rains. 

Rocca Pendice Teolo West sketch

 

ROCCA PENDICE (TEOLO) ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

  ROUTES FROM RIGHT TO LEFT  
1 Muro del pianto 6a
2 Spigolo del nasetto 6a
3 Oracolo del sud 6b+
4 Sinistra del nasetto 6a
5 Pensionato 6b
6 Valmentina la dolce 6a+
7 Erendira 6b+
8 Passerina 5a
9 El topo 5a
10 Fessura nord 5a
11 Dotto 6a
12 Baby doc 6a
13 Papa doc 6b
14 Tien an men 6b
15 Idi Amin 5a
16 Sikh 6a
17 Tirami su 6a
18 Ghro ghiro tondo 5b
19 Pol pot 6a+
20 Soraparon 4c
21 Le fessure di Stefy 5a
22 Spigolo 5a

REMEMBER TO BUY A LOCAL GUIDE TO SUPPORT THE SITE AND HAVE UP TO DATE INFORMATION

ROCK CLIMBING AREAS IN ITALY

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN ITALY

A

Agro Pontino Climbing Area, Latina Province

Ai Falconi Rock Climbing Area, Verona Province

Andonno Rock Climbing Area, Cueno Province

Arco Climbing Area, Trento Province

Asfodeli Climbing Area, Parma Province

B

Bagnasco Climbing Area, Cuneo Province

Barbarano Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

Bismantova Climbing Guide, Reggio Emilia Province

C

Camaiorese Climbing Area, Lucca Province

Castegnero Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

Castelbianco Climbing Area, Savona Province

Castlevecchio Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

Cava San Floriano Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

Ceraino Climbing Area, Verona Province

Ceredo Climbing Area, Verona Province

Cingoli Climbing Area, Marcerata Province

Cinque Torre Climbing Area, Belluno Province

Colmirano Climbing Area, Belluno Province

Cornalè Climbing Area, Cuneo Province

Costalungo Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

Covolo Thiene Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

E

Erto Climbing Area, Pordenone Province

F

Falesie del Forte Climbing Area, Verona Province

Fanzaso Climbing Area, Belluno Province

Farenzena Climbing Area, Belluno Province

Ferentillo Climbing Area, Termi Province

Finale Climbing Area, Savona Province

G

Grotti Climbing Area, Rieti Province

I

Il Gabellaccia Climbing Area, Carrara-Massa Province

L

Loreto Climbing Area, Imperia Province

Lumignano Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

Lumignano Climbing Area - Americano Sector

Lumignano Climbing Area the Brojon Strapiombi

Lumignano Climbing Area the Classica Sector

M

Marciaga Climbing Area, Verona Province

Massone (Policromuro) Climbing Area, Trento Province

Matera Climbing Area, Maetera Province

Monsummano Rossa Climbing Area, Pistoia Province

Monte Cimo Climbing Area, Verona Province

Muzzerone Climbing Area, La Spezia Province

N

Nago Climbing Area, Trento Province

P

Pale Climbing Area, Perguia Province

Petrella Liri Climbing Area, L'Aquila Province

Picinisco Climbing Area, Frosinone Province

Pioraco Climbing Area, Marcerata Province

R

Ripa Majala Climbing Area, Viterbo Province

Rivoli Climbing Area, Verona Province

Rocca Pendice (Teolo) Climbing Area, Padova Province

Rocca Pendice Climbing Area the West Wall

Roccamorice Climbing Area, Pescara Province

S

Sassi di Mas Climbing Area, Belluno Province

Serrada Climbing Area, Trento Province

Soave Climbing Area, Verona Province

Sperlonga Climbing Area, Latina Province

Spiaggia delle Lucertole Climbing Area, Trento Province

St Anna di Stazzema (Monte Lieto) Climbing Area, Carrara-Massa Province

Stallavena Climbing Area, Verona Province

T

Taibon Climbing Area, Belluno Province

V

Valle di Schievenin Climbing Area, Belluno Province

Valle Santa Felicita Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

Valsugana Covolo Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

Vecchiano Climbing Area, Pisa Province

Rock Climbing Guide to Emilia Romagna

EMILIA ROMAGNA REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

Rock Cimbing Italy, Bismantova Site

Most of the L'emilia Romagna region is made up of the Padovian plain but in the southern region starts the Appenines foothills. Although the Appenines are not as gran as the Dolomiti and Alps there are lots of hidden valleys with small cliffs can be found in an unexpected place, and many·have been bolted for sport climbing.

rockclimbing-emilia

The largest climbing area is Bismantova on the border of Tuscany and Emilia and Bagnolo climbing site just south of Bologna. The Emilia area is also full of a rich history that resulted from the traffic along the Po river. Apart from Bologna and the other major urban centres the beaches of Romagna have always attracted tourists from home and abroad, (especially the Germans and Northern Europeans).

PLEASE READ:

If you can get to one of the sites I have described: be sure and buy the local guidebookif it is being sold by someone who has bolted routes in the area. The routes I recommend and routes I have tried over the years, I cannot tell you how some of the routes are now since I do not climb at the same level.

Rock Climbing Sites of the Emila Romagna
  1. Pienazzo dei Casali Rock Cimbing Site
  2. Rocca di Badolo Rock Climbing
  3. Fosso Raibano Rock Climbing
  4. Pietramora Rock Climbing
  5. Fosso Raibano Rock Climbing
  6. Pietramora Rock Climibng
  7. Bagnolo Rock Climbing
  8. Ripa Moia Rock Climbing
  9. Rock Climbing Guide to Asfodeli, Parma Italy
  10. Rock Climbing Guide to Bismantova, Reggio Emilia Italy

Rock Climbing Guide to Italy

ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE TO ITALY

Rock Climbing Guide Italy

Italy really is Europe’s treasure box. It has it all! You name it, spectacular mountain ranges, beautiful lakes, idyllic islands, splendid cities with a wealth of culture, a perfect climate, amazing cuisine, and warm and friendly people. Plus it offers sun-drenched limestone and granite crags in glorious mountain and beach settings. A climbing trip here will be unforgettable!

Italy has quality climbing sites in each region, but many of the best equipped are found in the northern part of the country and on the islands. Italy is not as popular a destination as France, and most people will say it is because the grading system in Italy is a big harder.  Having climbed both I have to agree, if you are looking to bag routes based on grade head to France, but for great climbing on high quality limestone and granite Italy has attracted climbers from all over the world. There is boulder sites, short single-pitch routes, and major big-walls and alpine ascents to enjoy, and the climbing season is as varied as the landscape so you can always find a place that is in season.

I have started listing the climbing sites I have climbed at over the past 20 years. Some sights may no long be active but as I have time I will try to update the information. This guide is designed to get you started not replace guidebooks being produced by local climbers.  If you are visiting an area include the cost of a local guide into your travel budget, it helps the areas stay clean and bolted.

Sites listed are organized by region and then province. Many can be reached by public transportation. Sites listed are sport climbing areas were you only need some quick draws, rope and harness. There are a few multi-pitch sites listed in the rock climbing section, but only those that are well bolted and provide easy access. If you are looking for the bouldering information go to my:

The Rock Climbing Guide to Italy is a starting point for your Italian vacation planning. 

PLEASE READ

If you can get to one of the sites I have described, be sure and buy the local guidebookif it is being sold by someone who has bolted routes in the area. The routes I recommend and routes I have tried over the years, I cannot tell you how some of the routes are now since I do not climb at the same level.

ROCK CLIMBING ITALY GUIDE BY REGION

VENETO - TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE - FRIULI VENEZIA - LOMBARDY - PIEMONT - AOSTA - LIGURIA - EMILIA ROMAGNA - TUSCANY - MARCHE - UMBRIA - LAZIO - ABRUZZO - MOLISE - BASILICATA - PUGLIA - CALABRIA - CAMPANIA - SARDINIA - SICILY

Rock Climbing Guide to the Abruzzo Region, Italy

ABRUZZO REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

gran sasso

Abruzzo has always been an popular summer vacation destination for Italia's, to relax on the beach.· Over the past years there has a major effort to upgrade the road system, helping the interior of the region to discovered.· There is a rich regional culture and plenty of Active vacation options.· Located in the central western area of Italy and bathed by the Adriatic Sea, the Abruzzi territory has a rich variety natural resources: from the long golden beaches to the impervious mountain zones of the Gran Sasso, from natural lakes to the celebrated National Park. A harsh territory, occupied by long tracts of forest with its flora and fauna intact. Abruzzo still has a mix of popular ancestral traditions exist alongside modern structures for hospitality.

Abruzzo is a great destination for rock climbing, beach combing, and biking.· The region is 65% mountain 34% hills and the remainder flat land. The region has four provinces and each has a distinct local style and flavor. The province of L'Aquila is totally characterized by mountains; in the Chieti area it is rolling hills, while in Pescara and Teramo the areas are covered by a mixture of mountains and hill.

climb abruzzo

 

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE ABRUZZO REGION

San Vito Rock Climbing
Assergi Rock Climbing
Monticchio Rock Climbing
Capestrano Rock Climbing
Fara San Martino Rock Climbing
Castella fiume Rock Climbing Site
Castelvecchio Subeque Rock Climbing
Pennapeidi Monte Rock Climbing
Pietrasecca Rock Climbing

Rock Climbing Guide to the Aosta Vally Region, Italy

AOSTA VALLEY REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

aosta rock climbing

Val d'Aosta sits in the north-western corner of Italy, bordering with Switzerland (north) and France (west). To the east and south it borders with Piedmont, which it was part of until 1948, when it became an autonomous region with a special statute. The Valle d'Aosta is the smallest region in the Italian Republic and is also the most thinly populated, with the lowest population density.

Entirely mountainous, Valle d'Aosta extends across the mountains and crests of the Graian and Pennine Alps. In the western section of the region sits Mont Blanc, which is the highest peak (4,810 m.) in Europe. In the southern section of the region is Gran Paradiso (4,061 m.) and along the northern border sits, Mount Rosa group (4,633 m. at the Dufourspitze) and Cervinia (the Matterhorn). There are several good cliffs to climb in the main valley as well in the smaller side valleys, such as: to the left, Valpelline, Valtournenche, Val d'Ayas, Valle del Lys; to the right, Valgrisenche, Val di Rhêmes, Valsavarenche and Valle di Cogne.

Guide to Rock Climbing Aosta Valley Italy Map

Aosta Valley  Rock Climbing Sites

Falesie di Donnas/Bistecca-Cubo Rock Climbing Site
Arnad Rock Climbing Site
Ozein Rock Climbing Site
Sarre Rock Climbing Site
Villeneuve Rock Climbing Site
Arvier Rock Climbing Site
La Bethaz Rock Climbing
Gare Rock Climbing
Nid des Hirodelles Rock Climbing
Morgex Rock Climbing

 

Rock Climbing Guide to the Basilicata Region, Italy

BASILICATA REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

pietrapertosa

Basilicata lies in southern Italy. It faces the Gulf of Taranto (Ionian Sea) to the southeast and the Gulf of Policastro (Tyrrhenian Sea) to the southwest and borders with Campania to the west, Puglia to the north and to the northeast and Calabria to the south: its borders, largely conventional, are the result of complex historical events.

The mountain scenery is arid and craggy, but fascinating, the `Lucanian Dolomite's' are exceptional, or wooded and wild, as in the Pollino area, with a wealth of natural attractions, or complete with a number of lovely little lakes. Not to be forgotten are the typical inland villages perched on the hills, where time seems to have passed them by; their ancestral traditions and life styles still exist, together with many noteworthy artistic buildings. There are only a few developed cliffs in the region, but there is potential for much more. The problem thus far for me is making it all the way south to explore the area regularly.

climb basilicata

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE BASICILATA REGION

Pietra Maura Rock Climbing
Monte Armizzone Rock Climbing
Viggiano Rock Climbing

Rock Climbing Guide to the Belluno Province, Italy

BELLUNO PROVINCE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

Belluno is all mountains and home to the Dolomiti, so you would think there would be lots of great rock climbing.  There is a good variety of climbing available, but bolted sport climbs are not as abundant as you would thing.  Since many of the valley are still isolated by being tourist locations there are not enough people frequenting the area to fully develop the rock.  Given also that purest of the classic alpine style still exists, and they impede the develop at times.

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE BELLUNO PROVINCE

  1. Rock Climbing Guide to Cinque Torre, Belluno
  2. Rock Climbing Guide to Colmirano, Belluno
  3. Rock Climbing Guide to Fanzaso, Belluno
  4. Rock Climbing Guide to Farenzena, Belluno
  5. Rock Climbing Guide to Sassi di Mas, Italy
  6. Rock Climbing Guide to Taibon, Belluno
  7. Rock Climbing Guide to Valle di Schievenin, Belluno
  8. Rock Climbig Guide to Crepe Basse, Belluno
  9. Rock Climbig Guide to Crepe d'Oucher, Belluno
  10. Rock Climbig Guide to Ponte al piè della Merendera, Belluno
  11. Rock Climbig Guide to Laggio Alta, Belluno
  12. Rock Climbig Guide to Passo Mauria, Belluno
  13. Rock Climbig Guide to Val d'Oten, Belluno
  14. Rock Climbig Guide to Podenzoi Campo sportivo, Belluno
  15. Rock Climbig Guide to Igne, Belluno
  16. Rock Climbig Guide to Sassi di Ronch, Belluno
  17. Rock Climbig Guide to Mesaroz, Belluno
  18. Rock Climbig Guide to Sasso di Caleda, Belluno

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rock Climbing Guide to the Calabria Region, Italy

CALABRIA REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

pentedattilo

Calabria is the tip of the Italian peninsula; it borders with Basilicata and stretches between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Ionian Sea in the direction of Sicily, from which it is divided by the Strait of Messina. Geographically, Calabria has its own distinct individuality, due to its peripherical and almost isolated position Calabria has enormous tourist potential, and its exploitation should reasonably be expected to boost genuine improvement of the regional economy. A wealth of splendid scenery lies along the littoral which, including the Tyrrhenian and Ionian coasts, stretches for nearly 800 km. and is characterized by a tremendous variety of panoramas, ranging from delightful rocky coves (especially on the Tyrrhenian) to vast beaches fringing a clear sparkling sea. The magnificent inland area is dotted with tiny picturesque villages hugging the hills that slope down to the water, with colourful and typically Mediterranean.

There are only a few developed sites that I have visited and know of in the region.  There seems to be plenty of cliffs to develop, but getting around in the around is rough and getting land access seems to be the biggest problem, Calabria is still one of the hardest regions to figure out.

climb calabria

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE CALABRIA REGION

Francineto Eianina Rock Climbing
Mendicino Rock Climbing
Viggiano Rock Climbing

Rock Climbing Guide to the Campania Region, Italy

CAMPANIA REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

capri 3

Rock climbing in the Campania region has became better developed over the past few years now you can find several bolted walls above the famous coast line of Amalfi and out on the Islands of Capri and Iscia. This region offers a great mixture of outdoor activity and cultural. Visit Herculean (which has better ruins than Pompei) in the morning, then head for the beach during mid day with a nice picnic lunch and then wrap up the day with a few routes offer stunning views. This should entire any reluctant belay slave to tag along and for a fun vacation. Tourism in Campania has old traditions. Already a place of leisure in Roman times, Campania acquired an elite clientele, particularly foreigners attracted by the wonders of Nature, in the course of the last century. Capri, Ischia, Sorrento and Amalfi became the chosen destinations of visitors from many countries, however, there are hosts of equally beautiful sights and fine scenery in the inland areas.

Campania is a great off season climbing destination.  You can enjoy the Amalfi coast, Capria, and Ischia islands, and visit all the local tourist sites during your non climbing days.  This is not a summer spot to climb.

Map to rock climbing guide in the Campania Region of Italy

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE CAMPANIA REGION

Punta Campanella Rock Climbing
Monte Faito Rock Climbing
Capri Rock Climbing
Capo d'Orso Rock Climbing
San Liberatore Rock Climbing
Palinuro Rock Climbing
Alburni Rock Climbing

Rock Climbing Guide to the Friuli Venezia Guilia Region, Italy

 Rock Climbing Guide to the Friuli Venezia RegionRock Climb Italy's, Friuli Venezia Region

The Friuli Venezia Region is a great location for a climbing vacation.  Many of the classic cliffs are along the Adriatic coastline, and if you climb at Erto or across the Solvenia border at Osp, you will find climbs at higher grades to challenge yourself on.  

Friuli Venezia region consists of a flat plain, close to the Tagliamento river and to the Adriatic coastline, with its plain and lagoons; a foothills region that includes the  Carnic and Julian Pre-Alps; and an Alpine Part, which includes the Carnic and Julian Alps. The main climbing areas are near the city of Trieste with some smaller cliffs thoughout the northern part of the region.  The best know climbing area is Erto climbing area located in the western part fo the region near the Veneto Region border.

PLEASE READ:

If you can get to one of the sites I have described be sure and buy the local guidebookif it is being sold by someone who has bolted routes in the area. The routes I recommend and routes I have tried over the years, I cannot tell you how some of the routes are now since I do not climb at the same level.

Map of rock climbing sites in the Friuli Venezia region of Italy

Friuli Venezia Rock Climbing Sites
  • Doberdò del Lago
  • Erto Rock Climbing Site | Climb Italy
  • Anduins (Masarach)
  • Bosplans (Al Palazzo)
  • Costiera
  • Napoleonica
  • Sistiana
  • Avostanis (Pramosio)
  • Ponte San Quirino
  • Rifugio Pordenone
  • Piancavallo
  • Dardago
  • Val Rosandra
  • Osp
  • Dolge Nuve
  • Falesia del Nut
  • Bila Pec
  • Monte Strabut
  • Cretons
  • Madrabau
  • Villanuova
  • Sompiago
  • Braulins
  • Masarch
  • Travesio

 

Rock Climbing Guide to the Lazio Region, Italy

LAZIO REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

lago di posta lazio

Most of the region of Lazio is overlooked due to the attraction of Rome on visitors, the whole of region offers a range of alternative itineraries with a wide choice of historical and artistic sights and scenery. To the north of the region, are the ruins of the mysterious and fascinating Etruscans, or south lies Tarquinia, where lies one of the most important necropolis yet discovered, particularly famous for its paintings which provide a tangible and fascinating picture of Etruscan life and customs. Another itinerary in the heart of Etruria lies inland, combining the beautiful landscapes of the great Latium lakes with the environmental interest of ancient, picturesque villages submerged in a gentle silent countryside.

As a climbing destination Lazio is a pleasant surprise.  There are plenty of good cliffs to enjoy and many can be reached by public transportation plus that are near many of the sties you would want to visit.  The best site is Sperlonga if you want to relax along the beach.  Otherwise, Grotti and La Curva are the best places with plenty of good challenging routes to enjoy.  

Map to rock climbing sites in Lazio Reigon Italy

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE LAZIO REGION

Monte Morra Climbing Site
Ciampino Climbing Site
Massi di Capolaterra Climbing Site
Sasso Climbing Site
Norma Climbing Site
Sezze Climbing Site
Supino Climbing Site
Sora Climbing Site
Lenola Climbing Site
Leano Climbing Site
Bocca del Drago Climbing Site
Monte Moneta Climbing Site
Ojo del Sol Climbing Site
Gaeta Climbing Site

Rock Climbing Guide to the Liguria Region, Italy

LIGURIA REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE 

Portovenere

Liguria has been the winter destination for climbers in the Eastern Regions of Italy for several years. Finale is perhaps the second largest bolted area in Italy, behind Arco in the Trentino region. There are some classic routes that are part of Italy's and Europe's sport climbing history in Finale, and in the last 15 years some other crags in various valleys have gained notice.

If you can get to one of the sites I have listed, be sure to buy the local guidebookespecially if it is being sold by someone who has bolted routes in the area. The routes I recommend are routes I have tried over the years, not all routes will be up to date.

Map to the Rock Climbing Areas in the Liguria Region of Italy

CLIMBING SITES IN THE LIGURIA REGION ITALY

  • Varazze
  • Tirora
  • Toirano
  • Scagilun da lelua
  • Riva Trigoso
  • Punta Manara
  • Praglia
  • Orca Feglino
  • Maggirasca
  • Lago Valnoci
  • La Sfinge - Delva
  • Cravasco
  • Balardetto

BEST TIME TO CLIMB IN LIGURIA REGION

Liguria has been a winter climbing destination for most European climbers.  The weather is mild enough for 4-6 hours of climbing and there are sites you can frequent even if it is raining.  There other attraction is that there are lots of cheap sleeps since it is off season for the sea side resorts.

Rock Climbing Guide to the Lombardy Region, Italy

LOMBARDY REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

Rock Climbing Italy. Lombardy Val Mello

Three distinct natural zones can be fairly easily distinguished in the Lombardy region: mountain, hill and plain. The first is an alpine zone including the Lepontine and Rhaetian Alps (Piz Bernina, 4 055 m.), theOrobic Alps, the Ortles and Adamello massifs; a pre-alpine zone, its main peaks being the Grigne Group (2,410 m.),Resegone (1,875 m.) and Presolana (2,521 m.). The great Lombard lakes, all ofglacial origins, lie in this zone.

The Lombardy mountains have many tourist resorts offering an ample choice of excursions, mountaineering and winter sports. Worthy of mention are Madesimo at the foot of the Spluga Pass (Italy-Switzerland); Livigno, a duty-free zone beyond the watershed; Bormio, at the foot of the Stelvio (summer skiing); Santa Caterina Valfurva, below the Ortles Massif; Ponte di Legno and the Tonale Pass (summer skiing on the Presanella glaciers), Chiesa in Valmalenco, within sight of the Bernina Massif; Foppolo in the upper Val Brembana.Last but not least, in Valcamonica, of particular interest are the rock carvings made by theCamunis (ancient inhabitants of Valcamonica-7 000-3 000 BC.): the area round Capo di Ponte constitutes the Parco NazionaledelleIncisioniRupestri (rock carvings).

Rock Climbing Guide to Lombardy Region of Italy Map

CLIMBING SITES IN LOMBARDY REGION OF ITALY

Acquafraggia Rock Climbing Site
Scarenna Rock Climbing Site
Monte Barro Rock Climbing Site
Lago Pradello Rock Climbing Site
Antimedale Rock Climbing Site
Versasio Rock Climbing Site
Vaccarese Rock Climbing Site
Nibbio Rock Climbing Site
Grignetta Rock Climbng Site
Sasso Cavallo Rock Climbing Site
Precipiziio degli Asteroidi Rock Climbing
Sirta Rock Climbing
Rifugio Motta Rock Climbing
Corna Bianca Rock Climbing
Perdore Climbing Site
Onore Climbing Site
Valle dei Mulini Rock Climbing
Corna Rossa Rock Climbing
Punto Arredo Rock Climbing
Monet Campo dei Fiori Rock Climbing
Sangiano Rock Climbing
San Martino Rock Climbing Site
Cassano Valcuvia Rock Climbing Site
Brezzo di Bedero Rock Climbing Site
Valgana Rock Climibng Site
Monte Orsa Rock Climbing Site

BOULDERING IN THE LOMBARDY REGION OF ITALY

Rock Climbing Guide to The Marches Region, Italy

THE MARCHES REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

Conero1

The Marches is a region of Central Italy on the Adriatic side of the Umbria-Marches Apennines. The Marches are generally renowned for their famous seaside resorts. From north to south, the most important are: Gabicce Mare, Fano, Marotta, Senigallia (the famous `Velvet Beach'), Sirolo (situated in the rocky Riviera del Conero), Numana, Porto Recanati, Civitanova Marche, Porto S. Elpidio, Porto S. Giorgio, Cupra Marittima, Grottammare and S. Benedetto del Tronto.

Map to the Rock Climbing Sites in the Marches Region

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE MARCHES REGION

 

Rock Climbing Guide to the Molise Region, Italy

MOLISE REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

campitello matese

The Molise region's territory is nearly all mountainous (55% of the surface area) or hilly, with limited flat ground in the lower valleys and along the Adriatic coast; the Apennines divide Molise into isolated mountains and a chaotic array of hills, which stretch within a few kilometres of the coast, making communications difficult and creating a state of isolation.

The highest mountains are at the heart of the region and are part of `Samnite Apennine' (northern and eastern parts of Appennino Campano which the Bocca di Forlì (891 m.) separates from the Abruzzese Apennines) which include the southern extreme of the Meta mountains, here culminating at 2,185 m., the northern slope of the calcareous Matese massif (Mt. Miletto, 2,050 m.) and the Mount Mutria group; in addition, the Molise border passes the Apennine watershed, including the upper valley of the Volturno River, between the Mainardes and Matese.

Map to climbing sites in the Molise region of Italy

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE MOLISE REGION

Casale Rock Climbing
Colle dell'Oso Rock Climbing
Morgia di S. Stefano Rock Climbing
Pescopennataro Rock Climbing

Rock Climbing Guide to the Piedmont Region, Italy

PIEDMONT REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

castello montalto dora

The Piedmont Region lies in a peripheral position with respect to the rest of Italy, but its relative proximity to the sea and contact with France and Switzerland have, over the centuries, led to the creation of an important commercial transit network which has favoured its present economic development.  Most people whom visit Italy only see the vast urban centers of Torino, but there is a vast area for outdoor activities from biking, hiking and climbing.  This is an area I always have on my to explore more list.  

The Piedmontese Alps rise as mighty massifs which, at some points, reach to over 4,000 m. (Mount Rosa, 4,633 m.; Gran Paradiso, 4,061 m.). The transition from this mountainous region to the plain is marked by a discontinuous belt of moraine high ground (Rivoli and Ivrea amphitheatres, the Vercelli and Novara hills) which does not detract from the impression of clear contrast between the encircling mountains and the plain which in fact lies `at the foot of the mountains'.

climbing map piemont

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE PIEDMONT REGION

Cros di Andonno Rock Climbing Site
Monte Bracco Rock Climbing Site
Rocciare Rock Climbing Site
Mugniva Rock Climbing Site
Rocca Sbarua Rock Climbing Site
Anticaprie Rock Climbing Site
Campanbiardo Rock Climbing Site
Picnicari Rock Climbing Site
Rocca Penna Rock Climbing Site
Orrido di Chianocco Rock Climbing Site
Striature Nere Rock Climbing Site
Terrazze di Avalon Rock Climbing Site
Orrido di Foresto Rock Climbing Site
Paretone di Novalesa Rock Climbing Site
Falesia di Gravere Rock Climbing Site
Militi Rock Climbing Site
Gia Giomik Rock Climbing Site
Bec di Roci Ruta Rock Climbing Site
Forno Rock Climbing Site
Bosca Rock Climbing Site
Schiappa della Grise Neire Rock Climbing Site
Torre di Aimonin Cubo Climbing Site
Balmanolesca Rock Climbing Site
Gavi Rock Climbing Site

Rock Climbing Guide to the Puglia Region

PUGLIA REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

puglia sea

Puglia is not completely flat as many precieve it to be, there are the foot hills of the Mountains running the length of the region.  The climbing is centered in the Gargano are and further south by the gulf.

Map of Rock Climbing areas in the Puglia region of Italy

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE PUGLIA REGION

Gavina di Laterza Rock Climbing
Manfredona Rock Climbing
Rignano Garganic Rock Climbing
Statte Rock Climbing

Rock Climbing Guide to the Sardinia Region, Italy

SARDINIA REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

sardinia1

Sardinia is the second largest island (23,813 sq. km.) in the Mediterranean (Sicily is larger), and as a result of its isolation, less dependent on insularity than on the distance separating it from mainland Italy. The climate is Mediterranean with long hot dry breezy summers and short mild rainy winters, except at high altitudes. Average annual temperatures range from 18 ºC along the coastal belt to 14 ºC inland. Precipitations are largely confined to the winter months and distribution is somewhat irregular, with as much as 1,300 mm./year in the highest areas. The prevailing wind is north-westerly, which blows over the island in all seasons, particularly sweeping the west side.

Basically, tourism in Sardinia is linked to its extraordinarily beautiful coastline, with a variety of splendours hard to find elsewhere, and not only in the Mediterranean. Pure white sands alternate with tiny hidden coves, sheer cliffs frequently soar above magnificent caves and picturesque rocks rise from a clear sparkling sea facing rugged promontories, eroded by the wind.

climb sardegna

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE SARDINIA REGION OF ITALY

Cala Fighera Rock Climbing
San Giovanni Rock Climbing
Domus Nouvs Rock Climbing
Punta Pilocca Rock Climbing
Isili Rock Climbing
Jerzu Rock Climbing
Calla Goloritze Rock Climbing
Cala Gonone Rock Climbing
Oliena Rock Climbing
Alghero Rock Climbing
 

Rock Climbing Guide to the Sicily Region, Italy

SICILY REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

sicily rockclimbing

Sicily offers multipule climbing options throughout the region with more sites being developed.

Map of rock climbing sites on the Italian island of Sicily ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE SICILY REGION OF ITALY

MESSINA PROVINCE

  1. San Fratelo
  2. Rocche del Crasto
  3. Capo Calava
  4. Castelmola
  5. Stokholm
  6. Mazzaro

CATANIA PROVINCE

  1. Acqua Rocca
  2. Bronte

SIRACUSA PROVINCE

  1. Brucoli
  2. La Pagoda
  3. Moti Climiti
  4. Cavadonna
  5. C. da Alfano
  6. Pantalica
  7. Cava della Contessa
  8. Cava Grande

RAGUSA PROVINCE

  1. Cava d'Ispica
  2. Cava Maria
  3. Casteluccio
  4. Iaddinara
  5. A Cruci
  6. Piazzo del Ladri

TRAPANI PROVINCE

  1. San Vito lo Capo
  2. Scopelo

PALERMO PROVINCE

  1. Monte Pellegrino
  2. Monte Gallo
  3. Bauso Russo
  4. Monte d'Oro
  5. Caltavuturo

 

Rock Climbing Guide to the Tuscany Region, Italy

TUSCANY REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

tuscany region 1

Tuscany is one of the most famous tourist locations in Europe, thanks to it renowned history, its endless artistic beauties, its wonderful landscape and the quality of the produce grown and made there, especially its wine. It is a mostly hilly region, except for the mountain stretch of the Apuan Alps. It also has a long stretch of coastline looking out onto the Tyrrhenian Sea. There are several good climbing areas to enjoy as you mix with the wealth of cultural attractions.

The climbing is Tuscany is not destination worthy, in the sense that most sites are not places to spend 3-4 days.  The best way to explore the climbing areas is by car,because the public transportation is not flexible enough for a climbing vacation.  There are a few new bouldering areas open near the Monte Amiata area. 

Map to rock climbing areas in the Tuscany Region of Italy

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE TUSCANY REGION

Rock Climbing Guide to the Umbria Region, Italy

UMBRIA REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

Umbria13 1

Situated in the centre of Italy, Umbria is a somewhat small region, the only one in central Italy without a coastline. Umbria is a region with immense tourist potential. However, as a result of inadequate hotel facilities and road and rail links, mass tourism still tends to pass it by. Umbria is the ideal place for visitors seeking the beauties of unspoilt Nature, and the splendours of medieval and Renaissance art, or wishing to follow itineraries of historical and religious interest in the countryside that gave birth to St. Benedict, St. Rita and, especially, St. Francis.

Map to the rock climbing areas in the Umbria Region of Italy

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE UMBRIA REGION

Rock Climbing Guide to the Veneto Region Italy

ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE TO VENETO REGION

veneto rock climbing

There are enough bolted climbing sites in the Veneto region to keep you climbing a lifetime. I have been exploring the area since 1985 and still have not climbed at every site nor completed all the routes on my tick-list. The most historical area in the Veneto for rock climbing isLumignano, bolted in the 70's it use to host some ofitaly's hardest routes, and even today the classic sector has quality climbs for all levels of climbers. A boom of the crag development occurred in the 90's, however, there has a period of decline after 2000, mostly due to the climber's who were doing the bolting started to age and not a lot of younger individuals taking their place. The decline can also be contributed to less easily accessible cliff face, cost of materials, and the popularity of bouldering and indoor gyms, and an economical upswing of the Italian economy. Several sites have gone unattended and no longer are open to climbing, but there is hope many of the areas will come back into use. There are a small group of young climbs opening routes in the Sugana valley and Agrodine areas, and other climbing groups starting to clean and maintain the classic routes.

PLEASE READ:

If you can get to one of the sites I have described, please buy the local guidebookif it is being sold by someone who has bolted routes in the area. Listed in this guide are routes I have tried over the years, I cannot tell you how some of the routes are now since I do not climb at the same level.

climb veneto

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE PROVINCES OF THE VENETO REGION

VICENZA PROVINCE - VERONA PROVINCE - BELLUNO PROVINCE- TREVISO PROVINCE - PADOVA PROVINCE

There are no outdoor climbing sites in the  Rovigo Province nor Venice Province, but there are a few Indoor Climbing Gyms you could  visit. 

Rock Climbing Guide to the Verona Province

VERONA PROVINCE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

monte-cimo

The Verona province is the third best province in the Veneto to climb after Vicenza and Belluno.  There are several well developed cliffs in the Lessini mountains north of the city of Verona, sites on the eastern shores of Lago di Garda, and within the Adige valley as it runs north toward Trento.

rockclimb-verona

WHAT IS THE CLIMBING LIKE IN THE VERONA PROVINCE OF ITALY

Most of the cliffs that have been bolted in the Verona Province are limestone that has been craved out during the Ice ages.  So you will find more crimping and side pulls rather than finger pockets. Most bolted cliffs are one pitch sport climbing routes, but there is also a few multi pit routes in and Adige Valley.  There is no bouldering fields in the Verona Province, but there are a few small areas to traverse and climb off the rope.  Due to this lack of bouldering areas there are a few very good indoor facilities in or near Verona, the best being Kings Rock indoor gym.

HOW TO GET TO THE VERONA PROVINCE

The easiest way to get to Verona is to fly into Venice Marco Polo Airport and then take the train to Verona.  If you make a stop in northern Europe look for a flight in the Verona Airport.  From there you can rent a car to access several good climbing areas.  Verona city offers the best varity of Lodging and places to explore after climbing. 

HOW MUCH TIME SHOULD I PLAN ON CLIMBING IN THE VERONA PROVINCE

If you are a strong climber you could spend a week climbing in the Verona Province.  However, if you are only looking break up the flow of a normal vacation with a few active adventures plan 2-3 days in the Verona area and then move on to the Vicenza Province or Trento Province.

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE VERONA PROVINCE

  1. Ceredo Climbing Area, Verona Province
  2. Ceraino Climbing Area, Verona Province
  3. Falesie del Forte Climbing Area, Verona Province
  4. Marciaga Climbing Area, Verona Province
  5. Monte Cimo Climbing Area, Verona Province
  6. Rivoli Climbing Area, Verona Province
  7. Soave Climbing Area, Verona Province
  8. Stallavena Climbing Area, Verona Province
  9. Ai Falconi Rock Climbing Area, Verona Province

 

Rock Climbing Guide to the Vicenza Province, Italy

VICENZA PROVINCE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

veneto-climbing

Having climbed in the Vicenza Province for so many years I have forgotten at times the amount of routes and diversity of the climbing available.  At one time I climbed over 250 days a year and never traveled more that 75 km, nor repeated a climb less than 7b twice during the year.  At the height of the climbing years of the 90's there were probably over 5000 bolted routes within a 50 km radius of Vicenza.  So of the sites have gone into disrepair others no longer allow access but there are still plenty of sites to keep you busy during a vacation to the area.  And what other climbing destination allows you to sip a cafe in the square with Palladio building or visit Venezia on a rest day.

Rock Climbing Italy, Vicenza Province

 ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE VICENZA PROVINCE OF ITALY

  1. Lumignano Climbing Area, Vicenza Province
  2. Sisilla-Due Sorelle sector | Climbing Vicenza Province
  3. Riolo sector | Climbing area Vicenza Province
  4. Gogna sector | Climbing Vicenza Province
  5. Covolo Thiene Climbing Area, Vicenza Province
  6. Valle Santa Felicita Climbing Area, Vicenza Province
  7. Valsugana Covolo Climbing Area, Vicenza Province
  8. Barbarano Climbing Area, Vicenza Province
  9. Costalungo Climbing Area, Vicenza Province
  10. Cava San Floriano Climbing Area, Vicenza Province
  11. Castegnero Climbing Area, Vicenza Province
  12. Castlevecchio Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

Rock Climbing Guide Trentino Alto Adige Italy

TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDEtrentino rock climbing

Many of the rock faces in the Trentino Alto Adige  valleys were bolted so that one could sharpen skills and exercise the body as needed to climb the vertical walls of the Dolomite's. Today there walls are an attraction in themselves, and there is no end to the amount of sites to explore and many of the sites are within easy reach of public transportation.

The natural and artificial rock walls in Trentino are ideal for all levels and ages of climbers. The home of rock climbing is without doubt Arco (Upper Lake Garda) where the Rock master competition is held every summer. However, every valley has a wall suitable for any ability.

Dozens of other training grounds have been set up in a number of other centres in Trentino where you can climb in complete safety. In addition, there are many equipped indoor facilities even in public parks and artificial walls used for rock climbing meetings and competitions. Many of the 150 Alpine guides in Trentino are also qualified to teach rock climbing, while courses and specialisations are organised throughout the summer by the many schools in operation.

PLEASE READ:

If you can get to one of the sites I have described be sure and buy the local guidebookif it is being sold by someone who has bolted routes in the area. The routes I recommend and routes I have tried over the years, I cannot tell you how some of the routes are now since I do not climb at the same level.

Map to Rock Climbing areas in the Trentino Alto Adige region Italy

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE REGION

  1. Arco Climbing Area Trento, Italy
  2. Massone (Policromuro) Climbing Area, Arco Trento
  3. Nago, Trento Rock Climbing Area
  4. Serrada Rock Climbing Area in Trento Province Italy
  5. Spiaggia delle Lucertole Rock Climbing Site, Italy

 

Sassi di Ronch sector | Climbing Belluno Province

SASSI DI RONCH CLIMBING AREA | BELLUNO

Sassi di Ronch sector sits near Laste. There are many routes between 4a and 8a+. You should try a visit.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

SASSI DI RONCH CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Belluno
GEOGRAPHY Laste
BEST TIME OF YEAR
From May to October
ROCK dolomite
NUMBER OF ROUTES
55
RANGE OF GRADES
from 4a to 8a+
HEIGHT 10-30 meters

LISTING OF ROUTES

From right to left

Ombrello al titanio 6b+
Senza nome 7a
Pippo alla tavola rotonda 6a+
Senza nome 6c
Senza nome  
Articulation 6c+
Ambra 7b+
Senza nome  
Attento al buco 8a+
Hortensio  
Atto rifatto 7b+
Perfetta 8a
La nera 7c
Premier 7c
Ornellina 7b+
Senza nome 7b
Ballando coi climbers 6c
Variante 6b+
Mr. Mojo Rising 7a
Senza nome 5a
Senza nome 5a
Donne lunatiche 6b
Senza nome 7a
Senza nome 7b
King lizard 6a
Dedalo 4a
Icaro 6b
Diedro 6b
Senza nome 7a
Senza nome 7c
Senza nome  
Senza nome 6b
Senza nome 6b+
Senza nome  
Senza nome  
Naneddu meo 6c+
Laste for ever 7a
Rilancio al buio 7b
Laste sfuggenti 6b
Oceano di solitudine  
Senza nome  
Cooperativa climb 7b
Senza nome  
Senza nome  
Rudy 7a+
Level group 7a
Tiranno Sergio 7c
Laste rock 7c+
Senza nome 7c+
Senza nome 7b+
Zapping 7b+

Sasso di Caleda-Pera sector | Climbing Belluno Province

SASSO DI CALEDA-PERA CLIMBING AREA | BELLUNO

Caleda-Pera sector is surrounded by a small field and from it flows spring water. The routes are well manteined, so help to keep them clean.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

Sasso di Caleda Rock Climbing Guide

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Belluno
GEOGRAPHY Agordo
BEST TIME OF YEAR
summer
ROCK dolomite
NUMBER OF ROUTES
28
RANGE OF GRADES
from 6a to 8a
HEIGHT 10-20m

routes

From left to right

Raspa climb ?
Il ritorno di Sergio 7a+
Makonde 7b
Baboska 7b
Donna Diavolo 7a
Jenna 7b
Donald Duck 7b+
Dolomia Tremulis 7a+
Miss Caleda 7c+
Stati di agitazione 6c+
Ivan Desinovich 6c+
El Cumbre 6c
Buena suerte 6b+
Olof 7a+
Soweto 6c+
Garibaldi zoo 6c+
Stanislao Mowlinski 6b
Niagara 6a
Pentarello 6b
Senza nome ?
Acida ?
Uomo finito 6a
Calcolo numerico 6b
Crimini del cuore 6c
Stone Haven 7a+
La minorenne 7a+
Ecce Homo 7b+
Ghisao 8a

Sisilla-Due Sorelle sector | Climbing Vicenza Province

SISILLA-DUE SORELLE CLIMBING AREA | VICENZA

sisilla rock climbing area

The Sisilla-Due Sorelle sector is located at Passo Campogrosso in the Piccolo Dolomites.  The area is a great summer destination and a nice travel stop when moving from the Vicenza Province over to the Trento Province.  The rock style is similar to many of the classic Dolomite areas, and has been a training area for upper elevation climbs.  There are several multi pitch routes to enjoy all with an easy walk off on the back side of the cliff. Perfect area in summer, not crowded, with plenty of climbs for any level.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

Sisilla ROCK Climbing Guide

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
GEOGRAPHY Recoaro
BEST TIME OF YEAR
from April to October
ROCK Dolomite
NUMBER OF ROUTES
45
RANGE OF GRADES
from 5a to 7c+
HEIGHT 10-120m

routes at sisilla climbing area

Sisilla climbing sketch Campogrosso

From left to right

Sisilla:

Gulp 7b
Splash 6c
Biss Rock '89 7c+
Manhattan 6b
Bronx 6c+
Soobidoo 6c
Diretta soldà 6a+
Sabana grande 6c
Bombemont 7b
Buon pane del Menotti 6c+
Perchè 7c
Belzebù 7b+
Fessura solà 6c
L'ultimo rutto 7c
Frammenti di vita 7a+
Sbighibighilughiz 6b
Chernobyl 7c+
Sandri Carlesso 6a+
Sta 6c+
Hesperus 6a
Emanuela 7b
Vive una favola  
Bagliore al tramonto  
Coney Island 7a+
Thriller 7b+
Viavai 6b
Folletto vlante 6b+
Super folletto 7a+

Due sorelle:

El camin 5a
Bonsai 6b
Incastra la tecnica 6b
Nuvole  
El mugo  
Black face 6c
Nebbia 6a
Ameris 6b
Colonnina 6b+
Aia ai dii 6a+
Eppure soffia 6c
La cavalcata  
Spigolo soldà 6b
Caterina 6c
El querto  
El poro tordo  
Sola soletta  

Soave Climbing Area, Verona Province

SOAVE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE | VERONA PROVINCE

Located between Vicenza and Verona this small area in the Veronese hills offers a few fun climbs to explore. The routes site near an old walled castle and the area is known for some good red and white wines. Worth knowing about the area if you happen to be passing by.

SOAVE CLIMBING GUIDE

LOCATION Verona Province
NEAREST CITY Soave
 
BEST TIME OF YEAR All Year
ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 25 meters
ORIENTATION Southwest
ROPE LENGHT 60 meter
EQUIPMENT 15 quick draws
GRADES 4 - 7b
NUMBER OF ROUTES 40+
CLIMBING DAYS 1-2 days
GUIDEBOOK  

 

ROUTES

1

Go spira le man

5a

2

I tetti

6b

3

Il passero

6a

4

Silvana

5b+

5

Inizio

4c

6

Fabiola

6a

7

Montefortiana,

7b

8

Gli amici

6a

9

MM

6a

10

Mario Cazzola

3

11

Scricciolo

3

12

Silvia

6a

13

Pancia Piena

6b+

14

Diedro

5c

15

Favolosa

6b

16

Magica

6b

17

Gioanin

6b+

18

Dilemma

6a+

19

Mirror

6b+

20

Mario Maria

5c

21

L’inganno

6a+

22

Super Nico

7a

23

Ciapa e Tira

6b

24

L’ape

5b

25

Toro

6a+

26

La Corta

6a

27

Traverso

5b

28

Fiore

4b

29

Spigolo

5b

30

Struca Poco

6b

31

Simone

6c

32

Comici

5b+

33

Primavera

6a

34

Del Pico

6a+

35

Enigma

6b

36

Paola

5a

37

Ciao 94

4c

38

Son Bagna

6b

39

Mare Mare

5c

40

Café Express

6c

41

Sasso Mania

7a

Sopra la Chiesa (Above the Church) sector | Lumignano climbing area Vicenza Province

ABOVE THE CHURCH SECTOR | LUMIGNANO ROCK CLIMBING AREA

spora church sector

The sector Sopra la Chiesa is sitted just above the church of Lumignano. This sector includes also the Riga Rossa wall.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

SOPRA LA CHIESA CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Vicenza
GEOGRAPHY Lumignano, Colli Berici
BEST TIME OF YEAR
from October to March
ROCK limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES
83
RANGE OF GRADES
from 5b to 7b+
HEIGHT 10-45m

routes

From right to left

Do you remember? 5c+
Bocca insazaiabile 5c
So mato pa ea mona 5c
Anal dream 6a
Scaramagnao 6b
Lubrificare il condotto 6b+
Battaglie perdute 6c
Tette perverse 6b+
Gestazioni incompiute 6b
Vae victis 6c
Troppo pieni per volare 6c
Dolce e terribile 7a
La gioia dei casi fortuiti 6c+
Spittami l'utero 6c-
Chi ronfa tonfa 6c+
Royal Robbins 6c
Variante Gnomo 6b
Seno iperbolico 7a
Orgasmica 6b+
Un Marco vale l'altro 6b
Miskitos 6b
Furore uterino 6a+
Coma etilico 6a+
Lavanda gastrica 6c
Umida è la notte 6b+
Red line 6c+
Didietro tutto 6c+
Fessura dei vicentini  
Krapfen al caffè 5c
Femmine in calore 6a
Maschi raffreddati 6a
Oriett e stress  
Amiki 7a
Asma letale 6c+
Apmlesso complesso 6b
Principessa poppea 6c
Trivellami 6c
L'abisso di Chiara 6c
Ciao Gianni 6c
Mina vagante 6b+
Vade retro 6c
Maramao perchè sei morto 6c
Sendero fadigoso 7b
Il custode del carnaio 7b+
Benzodazepine 5c
Alex l'africano 5c
Rigoberta Menchu 6a
Il vomere 6b
Kosmi 6b
Flippaunt 6a+
Di dietro è bello 5c
Anni muggenti 6a
I pigrotti della falesia 6a+
Zinna bianca 6a+
La trattoria degli animali 6b+
La profezia del Clandestino 7a
Golfari 6c+
Neverending story 7b
Cime tempestate 7a
Mister X 7a+
Big Jim 7a+
Via contento 6c+
Torte a Venezia 6c+/7a
Anconcagua 2005 7a+
2001 odissea nello strazio 6b/c
Il Gattotardo 7b
Il dono dell'obliquità 6b+
Sfigaall'OK corral 6c
Finchè c'è roccia c'è speranza 6c
Daffy Duck 6b
Bugs Bunny 6a
La rivincita delle bionde 5c
Bip Bip 5c
Wile Coyote 6a
Yellow Kid 5b
Tin Tin 5c
Luky Luke 5b
Cocco Bill 5b
Linus 5b
Rank Xerox 5b
Zanardi 5b
Billy Bis 7b

St Anna di Stazzema (Monte Lieto) Climbing Area, Carrara-Massa Province

ST ANNA DI STAZZEMA (MONTE LIETO) ROCK CLIMBING AREA | TUSCANY REGION

Rock Climbing Italy, Monte Lieto

The Sant'Anna climbing area is an interesting place with a few walls about the town of S. Anna.  The rock is interesting and if you find yourself nearby and looking for somewhere different to relax, try the cliff.  Well protected and even though it sits at 800 meters elevation you can still climb if it rains or there is snow.

SANTA ANNA ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

PROVINCE Carrara-Massa, Tuscany
CLOSEST TOWN Querceta
Rock Climb Italy, St. Anna Stazzema Site
BEST TIME OF YEAR Climb All Year
APPROACH TIME 20 minutes
ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 30 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 4 - 7b (60 + routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  

RECOMMENDED CLIMBS

Stallavena Climbing Area, Verona Province

STALLAVENA ROCK CLIMBING AREA | VERONA PROVINCE

Stallavena Rock Climbing Site

 

Stallavena Rock Climbing site is located in the Verona Province of the Veneto Region.  A great site for beginner climbers and families, utilized by the local Climbing Club Italy and a caving group for training.  Sitting just north of Verona it is worth a couple of hours visit before returning to explore the city.

WHAT IS THE CLIMBING LIKE AT STALLAVENA

This site has been a training ground for local climbers and climbing schools.  Until Cerado was developed Stallavena was the primary site north of Verona.  The cliff offer single pitch climbs on vertical and less than vertical walls.  There are no major overhangs at this site and the problems tend to be one move crux routes.  There are several easy routes, but attention needs to be paid to the fall area and distance between bolts.  A nice site for climbers under the 6c level but more advanced climbers could get bored quickly.

GETTING TO THE STALLAVENA CLIMBING AREA

Stallavena is reached by provincial bus from Verona to Bosca Chiesanuova, getting off at the Stallavena stop you can walk to the cliff in 15-20 minutes.

If you are driving you will need to reach the Verona Est exit and follow the signs toward Grezzana and Bosco Chiesanuova.  In about 10 km you will actually see the cliff on your left, exit the main road at Stallavena and follow the signs to the Chiesa.  Driving up the hill until you reach the Chiesa where you can park, then walk back down the road to the first turn where you will find a trail leading to the center section of the climbing site. 

Stallavena climbing site

STALLAVENA CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto Region
PROVINCE Verona Province
Geographical Lessini Mountain Group
NEAREST CITY Verona
NUMBER OF CLIMBS 130+
GRADES 3 - 7b
HEIGHT 30 meters
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone
BEST TIME OF YEAR
Spring and Fall
Winter in the morning
Summer in the late evening
NUMBER OF CLIMBING DAY
1 day
GUIDEBOOK stallavena-guidebook-new

SUGGESTED CLIMBS AT STALLAVENA

Messaggeri delteschio 7a+
Gran Strapiombo 6c+
Anatomic 6a+
Famiglia Felice 6b+
Mandrillomaniaque 6a

You can find plenty lodging in Verona, but there is also a hotel in Stallavena, this is not a bad place to base yourself the explore other crags in the Verona area.  You can still camp above the cliff area if you maintain a low profile and no fires.  For a guide book and general information go to the Alpino Bar near the centre. 

Val d'Oten sector | Climbing Belluno Province

VAL D'OTEN CLIMBING AREA | BELLUNO

Val d'Oten sector requires tecnique and explosive power. Perfect place in summer.

Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book.

Val d'Oten Climbing Guide

REGION Veneto
PROVINCE Belluno
GEOGRAPHY Calalzo di Cadore
BEST TIME OF YEAR
summer
ROCK dolomite
NUMBER OF ROUTES
40
RANGE OF GRADES
from 6b to 8b+
HEIGHT 25m

routes

From left to right

Anonima 7b
Incubo della ragione 7b
Spigus 7b
Variante Spigus 7b
Help 6c
Epitaffio per un bassotto 6c
Senza nome ?
Senza nome ?
Senza nome ?
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Pilastro 6b+
Sofegaso 7b
Vespa 7b
Senza nome 7a+
La via della perdizione 7a+
Meteo 7b+
6c 6c
Diedro 7a+
Frice 6c
Digitale 7b
Senza nome ?
Senza nome ?
Nanni paia 7c+
Sisto pizzo 6b
Senza nome  
Fort Knox 8a+
Soft 8a
No ice 7c+
Dolomitica 6c
Hemmental 7b
Bubbonica 7b
Senza nome  
La Bella e la Bestia 8a+
Cliptonite 7c+
Meneghite 7c
Gi Pazzo 7b
Toni scaia 6b
Riscia 7b

Valle Santa Felicita Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

VALLE SANTA FELICITA CLIMBING AREA | VICENZA

Valle Santa Felice Climbing Site

Santa Felicita rock climbing area is located in a valley north of Bassano della Grappa and in part of the Monte Grappa mountain group.  The cliffs in the valley have been used has been a long time training area for Alpine climbing. The local CAI has bolted several routes and with the increase in climbing levels there has been an increase on the number of cliffs bolted.·

At the moment there is no full guide to the area, but there are normally individuals climbing, so getting a quick direction or two is not that difficult. There is a place to car camp at the beginning of the valley plus an inexpensive hotel nearby. This is an area you can easily get to by foot and if you are getting around Italy by train a possible location.

Great family area. and a nice area to hike or bike. There are plenty of places to grab supplies for a picnic lunch.  If you are visiting Bassano della Grappa do not forget to visit the Grappa distillers and the Alpine Museum at the foot of the Ponte Alpini.

VALLE SANTA FELICITA ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto
LOCATION Monte Grappa
NEAREST TOWN Bassano del Grappa
 
BEST TIME OF YEAR Late Spring to early Fall, the valley is narrow so it gets very cold in the Winter
APPROACH TIME 20 minutes
ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 200 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 4 - 8a (80+ routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  

RECOMMENDED ROUTES

  • Normale 6a+
  • Riga Nera 6b
  • Pochi intimi 7b
  • La Mestiera 7c

Remember to always buy a Local Guidebook if visiting.

Valsugana Covolo Climbing Area, Vicenza Province

VALSUGANA COVOLO CLIMBING AREA | VICENZA

 

One of the oldest walls in the Valsugana, the area was developed in the 1970's by Carlo Zonta, a local from Bassano.  The wall sets just off the main highway, on the right side, as you are going toward Trento.  Just before the town of Primolano is the exit for the tunnels to go to Feltre, the wall is just before the and is around 150 meters high.  Initially, the area was an Aid Climbing training area then as climbing levels increased in the 80's many of the walls were freed.  The routes are still well maintained and in the hot summer months an idea location to get in a few climbs.

COVOLO VALSUGANA ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

LOCATION Primolano, Vicenza Province
NEAREST TOWN Primolano, Italy
   
BEST TIME OF YEAR Spring to Fall
APPROACH TIME 5 minutes
ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 350 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 4 - 7b (20+ routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  

RECOMMENDED ROUTES:

  • via Roberta dellafesta 7a
  • Heavy Metal 7a
  • Piccoli sogni 6c+
  • Sporcacanaglia 7a

Vecchiano Climbing Area, Pisa Province

VECCHIANO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | TUSCANY REGION

 

Vecchiano climbing area is located just north of Pisa and the "Leaning Tower", this is a close crag to escape to if you happen to have your gear with you. The climbing area does not look like much from the road, but there are several fun routes to pass your time on. Great area for individuals looking a good rest day or have less experienced climbers.

VECCHIANO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

PROVINCE Pisa Province Tuscany Italy
NEAREST TOWN Vecchiano

Rock Climb Italy, Vecchiano Pisa

BEST TIME OF YEAR Fall, Winter, Spring
APPROACH TIME 5 minutes
ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 20 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 4 - 7c (80+ routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  
   

RECCOMENDED ROUTES

  • Ensemble 7a
  • Elucubrazioni maniacali 6a
  • La prua della nave 7a
  • La diretta arancione 6a

Remember to buy a locale guidebook if available.