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Asfodeli Climbing Area, Parma Province

LAGONI-ASFODELI ROCK CLIMBING AREA | EMILIA ROMAGNA REGION

lagoni asfodeli climbing area

The Asfodeli rock climbing area is located south of the city of Parma and near the bouldering area of Lagoni. The climbing site is located in an area not well know for climbing since there are not a lot of cliffs.  The wall has a little over 25+ routes on a sandstone wall. Sitting in a tranquil location it is a nice break from the more popular climbing areas and a great stop over point as you travel from Liguria to the northern regions.

ASFODELI ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Emilia Romagna
LOCATION Parma
NEAREST TOWN
Pontremoli
GEOGRAPHY Apennine
  Rock Climbing Italy, Asfodeli Climbing Map
BEST TIME OF YEAR  Spring and Fall
APPROACH TIME  30 min from parking
ROCK  Sandstone
HEIGHT  30 meters
RANGE OF GRADES  5 - 7b (20+ routes)
GUIDE BOOKS/MAP  
   

RECCOMENDED ROUTES

  • Oasi 6c
  • I profeti del falso 7a
  • L'abusivo 6a+
  • J'aime quim'aime 7a

 

Bismantova Climbing Guide, Reggio Emilia Province

PIETRA DI BISMANTOVA ROCK CLIMBING AREA | EMILIA ROMAGNA REGION

Pietra di Bismantova

Bismantova is located in the hills south of Reggio Emilia and is a large sandstone mesa that dominates the area. I first climbed here in the 90's, the quality of the sandstone was surprising. However, I found out quickly that it was not an area to climb at when the sun is overhead.  Luckly there are plenty of sectors all the way around this unique rock formation, facing each cardinal direction, that can be climbed based on weather and time of day.  The routes tend to technical and the holds very demanding on the fingers. The better routes are polished and you will need idea conditions to climb at the grade listed if you are trying to onsight.

The Hills of the local area are beautiful and there are several off the beaten path tourist attractions, that make this a nice two to three day climbing location. Also, nearby is the bouldering area of Ceriolo. The Pietra di Bismantova is mentioned by Dante Alighieri in his Divine Comedy (Purgatory, IV, 25-30).

BISMANTOVA ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Emilia Romagna
PROVINCE Reggio Emilia
CLOSEST TOWN Castelmovo ne'Monti
GEOGRAPHY Apennine
Rock Climbing Italy, Bismantova Climbing Map
BEST TIME OF YEAR All year
APPROACH TIME 5 min
ROCK Compact Sandstone
HEIGHT 200 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 4 - 8b (250+ routes)
GUIDEBOOK/MAPS  

RECOMMENDED ROUTES

  • Fessura Zuffa 6a+
  • Silver cat 6a
  • Sesso & sasso 6c
  • Ilusioni 7a
  • Karin B 7c
  • Schizo 7c
  • No a la chasse 8a

Sectors:

  • Moby Dick
  • Cocoa
  • Nino Marchi
  • Pilone Giallo
  • Torrione Sirotti
  • Roberta aiutami
  • Gare Nuove
  • Gabri
  • Gare Vecchie
  • Anfiteatro basso
  • Sasso sulsentiero
  • Pilone Giallo
  • I massi
  • Diamante e rubino
  • La Bettola
  • Masso del parcheggio
  • La sfinge
  • Pesce lesso

Maiolo Bouldering Area, in Cesena Province

MAIOLO BOULDERING AREA | EMILIA ROMAGNA

Maiolo Bouldering Site

 Fortress of San Leo

The Maiolo bouldering area is a small group of sandstone bloc's that sit in the hills southwest of the Republic of San Marino, in the Emilia Romagna Region. The boulder problems are marked by name, and most are single problems with one obvious solution, not eliminators. The landing area is safe, but in the warmer months the site tends to get overgrown, so keep an eye out for snakes and ticks.  There are 50 blocs listed by the locals but during my visit I found almost 20 good sized blocs with solid problems. The rest of the blocs are small and "if I have nothing better to climb" type of blocs. If you are visiting the Republic of San Marino or Rimini, and like to do a few problems, Maiolo Bouldering area is worth the visit. As well if you passing near Rimini and need a rest stop this is a great visit off the main tourist trek with lots of extras to visit.

GETTING TO THE MAIOLO BOULDERING AREA

The town to head toward is Rimini.  Then link up with the A-14 autostrada section running between Bologna and Rimini.  You will want to take the Nord Rimini exit and follow SP-49 south to San Martino di Mulini.  From here turn south on SS- 249 (also marked as SP-14 in some sections) to the town of Ca' di Vento.  Just after Ca di Vento turn following the signs to Maiolo (SP Montefeltrese) passing through the small community of Maiolo and then turning left to Boscara.  You will park at the intersection of via Poggio and walk to the bouldering site.

Latitude: 43*52'56.81"N
Longitude: 12*19'41.72"E

Maiolo Boulder site

View from Poggio

MAIOLO BOULDERING GUIDE

REGION Emilia Romagna Region
PROVINCE Forli-Cesena Province
NEAREST MAJOR CITY Rimini
BEST TIME OF YEAR Fall, Winter, and early Spring
TYPE OF ROCK Sandstone
LANDING Good,
HEIGHT OF BLOCKS 1-3 meters
GRADES 4 - 7c
NUMBER OF BLOC'S 53
VISIT DAYS 2-3  Days
GUIDEBOOK  None known

Maiolob Bouldering Site

BOULDERS AT THE MAIOLO SITE

Bloc 0 Zerox3= Che dolore N.L. (sit), 3verso N.L. (sit), Bordo Dx 5a (sit), Bordo Sx 4b (sit)
Bloc 1 Jump 6b, Tintorera 8?, Black block 6a+ (7a+ sit), Orangesite 7a (sit)
Bloc 2 ZiHulk 6b+ (sit), Spigoplus 7b (sit)
Bloc 3 La bocca della verità 6c (sit)
Bloc 4 No fire here 6b (sit), Acqua 6a (sit), Micio incredibilis 7a (sit), Tacco e punta 6b+ (sit)
Bloc 5 Dotazionenaturale 6a (sit), Il trippone 6c (sit), Il piatto del trippone 7a (trippone allungato sit), Micro N.L. (sit)
Bloc 6 Giro di punta 5c (sit), Maura dove sei ? Varie 3a Spazzolami 3a
Bloc 7 Zaganella 4a
Bloc 8 L'abbraccio dellamorte N.L., Eliporto 7a Atterraggio interdetto 6b (sit), Gorka Morka 7c+, Diapomania 6c+, Zenigata alleurne 5c, Vota Lupen 4c, Pesce dimaggio 4b, Zio fifone bis 5a
Bloc 10 Barella 5c (sit), Rocco la merda N.L.
Bloc 11 Progetto ?, Inferi sx 6b (sit), Inferi sx 6b+ (sit), Il folletto 6a (sit), Equilibrium 6a (6b sit), Superbia 5b (sit), Io zombo 5a (sit), Vuzzero 5a (sit), Patana 6a (sit), Ombra atomica 7b+, Progetto
Bloc 12 Potaland 6a (6a+ var.dir.)
Bloc 13 Magnesite sulsaio 6b (sit), Il monaco di Maiolo N.L., Fabihook 6b+
Bloc 14 Il lungo e il baro 6b/c (sit), Booh! 6c, Nuevaonda 6b/c, Booh!+Nueva onda 7a+, Mi tengo 7b/c (sit)
Bloc 15 Variefacili
Bloc 16 La visita 6a+, Grande prestazione 6a, Cu-cu 5b, Acidolattico ?, Mario five.. maestro nike 4a
Bloc 18 La morale è sempre quella 6b+, Girella 6a+, Zio fifone 5b (sit), Golosastro 6b (senzaintermedi), Notevole 7a
Bloc 19 Avarizia 6b (sit), Asparagi ?, Cazzi amari ?, Spotter ?, Nirvana 4b
Bloc 20 Tracce di magnesite 7a (sit), Ciao Oscar 6c (sit), Il coraggio dello zio 5a, Saga dx 6a (sit) sx 6a+, Sedutone (sit) N.L., Ribaltone 5a (sit), Raga 5b (sit)
Bloc 21 Variefacili
Bloc 23 Zeccarella 6a
Bloc 25 Oplà 6a (sit), Kirikù 7a (sit)
Bloc 26 Sergente Garcia 6b, El robusto 6b+, Daver dur 7c/7c+ (sit), Nelsen 7a (allungata fino a sergente garcia 7b), Cip 6a, Ciop 5c, Uigang 5b, Hispanico 6a+, Italico N.L., Gola N.L. (sit)
Bloc 27 Il saltamario 6c (sit)
Bloc 28 Cubo N.L. (sit)
Bloc 30 Lussuria 5b (sit), Il nuovoaiutante 5c (sit)
Bloc 32 L’ombra delconvento N.L.
Bloc 34 Penitentes 6b (sit)
Bloc 35 Tra fede e trazione 6a+
Bloc 36 Ira 6c+ (sit), Keno 6a (sit), Keno+Ira 7a+ (sit)
Bloc 37 Invidia 5b
Bloc 40 Sotto la neve 6a (sit), Blocco barocco 6c (sit), Brocco chi non passa 6a+ (sit), Accidia 6a (sit), Stratagoing (facile)
Bloc 41 Mely baby 3c
Bloc 43 Blocdi briscola 6b ?, (variante senza bucone) 7a
Bloc 44 30 cavalli per un funerale N.L.
Bloc 45 Titanic 6b+ (sit), La schiena del mondo N.L.
Bloc 48 30 volte Panda (3varianti sit) fino al 6a
Bloc 49 Stile Oscar 6a+ (sit), Lo ripianto più in là 6b (sit), Non riesco a lolottare 5a (sit)
Bloc 51 Peace for war 6b (sit)
Bloc 52 Fiori gialli (sit) ?, Pioggia (sit) ?
Bloc 53 Ego ? (sit)

Rimini | Rimini Province

RIMINI | EMILIA ROMAGNA REGION

Rimini is a very lively and popular coastal town and seaside resort on the Adriatic sea to the east of the Emilia-Romagna region of central Italy.  Rimini is known as a beach and seaside holiday destination. More than 15 kilometres of beautifully maintained sandy beaches are close to hand and Rimini is said to be the largest beach resort anywhere in Europe. This is something of a transformation over the last 100 years since Rimini first became popular because it was such a small and traditional seaside town!

It is not just during the summer that Rimini is crowded - even out of season you will find a lot of people travel from afar for the famous nightlife in the town, and in the summer it is more or less a 24 hour party and beach town. A substantial part of the coast is lined with hotels, restaurants and nightclubs catering to pretty much any type of late night activity you can think of - and probably a few you haven't yet thought of!

Despite the general liveliness, Rimini is still popular with families just as much as the 18-30 type crowd. The resort is especially popular with Italian holidaymakers, but you will hear many other nationalities as you walk along the seafront. Note that many parts of the beach do charge for access and you can easily pay 20 euros a day for a space with two loungers and an umbrella. There are also plenty of related amusements along the coast, especially amusement parks and aquariums, wildlife and water parks. This all means that the town and coast is very crowded during the summer holidays, and pretty quiet the rest of the time.

Rimini was almost destroyed during the Second World War. It does however retain an attractive old town centre with a few notable sights that is well worth exploring as a break from the hedonism along the seafront. In particular explore the narrow, cobbled streets around the two main squares - Piazza Cavour and Piazza Tre Martiri - to see the best of the original buildings, including some Roman remains - the Arch of Augustus and the bridge, Ponte Tiberio - and the grand townhouses around Piazza Cavour.

The most interesting building in Rimini, and the one with the most fascinating history, is the Tempio Malatestiano. Originally a church, it was transformed in the 15th century into a monument to Sigismondo Malatesta. The converted monument is finely decorated, especially with the intertwined initials of Sigismondo and his fourth wife, and exotic pictures of elephants. Pope Pius II didn't take kindly to all this, since Malestata was best know as a particularly despicable person - incest, rape, murder, adultery and pillaging were his specialities - and promptly burned an effigy of him and consigned him to hell. The temple contains some fine artwork, including a fresco of Malestata himself.

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