Algund Bouldering Area, Bolzano Province

ALGUND BOULDERING AREA | TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE

algund

Algund is located just west of Merano and sits in the "Apple Orhirds" that fill the valley at the base of the Austria and Italy boulder. My first visit here 8 years ago was to the upper sectors Elettra and Dragonball, the only developed area at the time. I was greatly disappointed with the quality of size of the boulders, many of the "problems" were on small rocks, almost waist high, this was my first experience in the Italian idea. of a sit start.

However. I made a return visit and was surprised to find several good problems lower down in the valley. There are several good boulders to work on,and the setting is idea, to escape the heat during late spring and early fall. You can boulder in the winter if the snowfall is not too heavy. I like this area because I can ski at Val di Senales during the morning and then stop to do a few routes on the way home.

REMEMBER TO SUPPORT THE LOCAL CLIMBERS AND BUY A GUIDE BOOK!
RESPECT THE AREA, DO NOT LITTER, CHIP THE ROCK, OR BE RUDE AND LOUD!

ALGUND BOULDERINGGUIDE

REGION Trentino Alto Adige
PROVINCE Bolzano
LOCATION Texel Mountain Group
NEAREST CITY Merano
BEST TIME OF YEAR March to June
APPROACH TIME 5 minutes
ROCK TYPE Gneiss
LANDING
  • 1 to 2 good crash pads
  • some steep terrian
RANGE OF GRADE (N. Problems) V-0 to V12 (100+)
GUIDEBOOK  

 

Bouldering Italy, Algund Sketch

 

Sectors

  1. Knodelmann
  2. Schnapsbrennerei
  3. Beleriand
  4. Konrad
  5. Schlundenstein
  6. Dragonball
  7. Elettra
  8. Piazza teatro
  9. Dormitorio

BOULDERING AREA

Bouldering Guide of Italy

ITALY BOULDERING GUIDE

Bouldering Italy

Italy has several great Bouldering Areas that are destination worthy.  In the past few years bouldering in Italy is just as importation as roped climbing and other mountaineering activities.  Within the Italian Dolomites, Italian Alps, and Apennine mountain groups there is a good variety of rock types, styles, and seasonal destinations throughout the country.  Combine the climbing with the history, food and wine, and culture Italy becomes a prefect place to enjoy an active vacation for all level of climbers.

Perhaps the most developed area in Italy is the Piedmont Region, in terms of number of sites, the best areas to climb on granite are in the Trentino-Alto Adige Region, and Lombardy Region.  If you are looking for sand stone you should head for the Emilia Romagna Region, Tuscany Region, and the Marches.  The Islands of Sicily and Sardinia have several great sites to explore that are a course granite. There are several small sites with volcanic rock throughout the county.

GUIDE TO BOULDERING IN ITALY

In this guide I have chosen to include, what to me, looked like the clear and obvious places to boulder in Italy. Since I do not know who established the all the routes I can not say someone else did not see the rock different. So, before you get pissed and upset, accept my apologies in advance, I am trying to provide a good starter guide for individuals to get to an area and start climbing. The joy of the sport is that we can all climb for ourselves and gain our own individual level of success. If you are visiting PLEASE BUY A LOCAL GUIDEBOOK to find the grades and updated route information.

Bouldering ethics should be simple just walk around, find a boulder and top it out!

  • If you do not need to top out don't. Leave the natural plants and moss in place if possible. Remember they are helping create O2 for us.
  • Chipping: What you can't remove with a stiff plastic brush should stay (unless something is very loose and dangerous).
  • Leaving tickmarks: When red pointing a boulder it is useful to mark the rock in order to find the holds and mark your sequence. However, it is very important that your drawings are brushed away as to not confuse other climbers.
  • Carry your trash and waste out with you.  Always have a plastic bag in your pack.

 

Bouldering Guide to the Trentino Alto Adige Region, Italy

BOULDERING AREAS IN THE TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE REGION

Bouldering Guide to the Trentino-Alto Adige Region

The Quick guide to Bouldering in Italy's Trentino Alto Adige Region.  There are several good destination sites to visit with the best being Val Doane, in the Trento Province.  However, if you driving through the Dolomite's bring along your crash pad and shoes you will find several isolated boulders to climb on.

BOULDERING GUIDE TO THE TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE REGION

BOULDERING SITES IN THE TRENTO PROVINCE

BOULDERING SITES IN THE BOLZANO PROVINCE

 

Bouldering Guide to the Veneto Region, Italy

BOULDERING AREAS IN THE VENETO REGION

Bouldering Italy, Lumignano

There are several small bouldering site's within the Veneto.  The rock is mostly limestone with an occasional sandstone, granite, or volcanic area. Even though the Veneto is more of a free climbing and Alpine zone with the Dolomites, there are plenty of boulders for those wishing to get around with just their crash pad and shoes.  Most places you will need a car to reach and you will be off the beaten path of the main tourist route so expect the unexpected and be ready for an adventure.

BOULDERING GUIDE TO THE VENETO REGION

  • Lumignano Bouldering Guide
  • Campogrosso Bouldering Area
  • Cima Gogna Bouldering Area
  • Mas di Sedico Bouldering Area
  • Valle di San Lucano Bouldering Area
  • Valsugano Bouldering Areas Primero

Cimaganda Bouldering Area, Sandrio Province

CIMAGRANDA BOULDERING AREA | LOMBARDY region

Cimaganda bouldering area is located around the small village of the same name along SS36.  There are several sectors and over 100 problems cleaned and marked with plenty of additional areas.  The three main sectors are:

  • The Ghiaione sector located to the northeastern side of the town.
  • The Fiume (river) sector.
  • The Fiume Alto sector located on the northwestern side of the Lirofiume.

CIMAGRANDA BOULDERING GUIDE

REGION Lombardy
PROVINCE Sondrio
NEAREST CITY Chiavenna
GEOGRAPHY Alps
BEST TIME OF YEAR Spring and Fall
APPROACH TIME 5 minutes
ROCK Gniess (granite)
LANDING
  • Grassy meadows and river rocks
  • Multipule crash pads recommended
RANGE OF GRADES 5c to 8a
GUIDEBOOK  

 

 

Dazio Bouldering Area, Sondrio Province

DAZIO BOULDERING AREA | LOMBARDY REGION

dazio

Dazio is a very small bouldering area just outside of the village of Dazio.  The boulders are in the woods on the north side of the road.  The few blocks are quite large with a good quality of granite that is a finer grain. 

DAZIO BOULDERING GUIDE

REGION Lombardy
PROVINCE Sondrio
NEAREST TOWN Morbegno
GEOGRAPHY Alps
BEST TIME OF YEAR Fall, Winter, Spring
APPROACH TIME 1 minute
ROCK Granite
LANDING Good
RANGE OF GRADES 5b - 8a
GUIDEBOOK  

Guide to Bouldering Areas in the Friuli Venezia Region, Italy

BOULDERING AREAS IN THE FRIULI VENEZIA REGION

claut udine

Many of the Bouldering Area's in the Friuli Venezia Region are located in river beds.  There are only a few places to explore.

Bouldering Sites in the Friuli Venezia Region

There are only a few bouldering sites in the Friuli Venezia region,and several are river boulders and limestone.  There are no large destination spots, but there are a few places to enjoy.

FRIULI VENEZIA BOULDERING GUIDE

  • Claut
  • La Napoleonica
  • Torrente Vinadia
  • Val Resia

Guide to Bouldering Areas in the Tuscany Region, Italy

 bouldering areas in the tuscany region

Bouldering Sites in the Tuscany Region

In the southwest area of Tuscany there are a few sandstone bouldering sites and out on the islands of Giglio and Elba, you will find sever granite blocs.

BOULDERING AREAS IN THE TUSCANY REGION

Sasso Fortino
Monte Amiata
Giglio Island
Elba Island

Guide to Bouldering Sites in the Aosta Valley Region

BOULDERING AREAS IN THE AOSTA VALLEY REGION

Bouldering Guide to the Aosta Valley

 

There are new sites being opened in the Alps of the Aosta valley.

Bouldering sites in Aosta Valley

 

BOULDERING SITES IN THE AOSTA VALLEY

Cubo (Arnad) - Arnad (AO)

Blocchi del Furgg - Plan Maison (AO)

Area Pont - Pont Valsavarenche (AO)

Guide to Bouldering Sites in the Basilicata Region

BOULDERING IN THE BASILICATA REGION

Bouldering Sites in Basilicata italy

Basilicata is such an isolated region it has not really been explored and developed for climbing and bouldering sites.  There are a few locations to enjoy, but getting around without a car is very difficult.

BOULDERING SITES IN THE BASICILATA REGION

Bosco di Gallopoli

Guide to Bouldering Sites in the Liguria Region

BOULDERING GUIDE TO THE LIGURIA REGION

Bouldering in Liguria, Punta Corva

 

The Liguria region has some exceptional climbing sites, and there are also a few good bouldering locations.  The best known area is Varazze, located near Genova.

I have been surprised to find a few nice bouldering areas in the Liguria Region of Italy.  The area is more know for it's sun and great beaches, plus being a winter rock climbing destination.  In the past few years a few small areas have been developed and there is perhaps more to come in the coming seasons.  Not great destination spots but enough developed boulders to give you a break from the cord.

 

Bouldering Sites in Liguria

BOULDERING SITES IN LIGURIA REGION

Varazze - Varazze (GO)
Triora - 
Punta Corvo - Montemarcello (SP)

Guide to Bouldering Sites in the Lombardy Region

BOULDERING AREAS IN THE LOMBARDY REGION

Bouldering Sites of the Lombardy Region

There are several nice bouldering sites in the Lombardy region of Itay. 

BOULDERING SITES IN THE LOMBARDY REGION

Prestone
Cimaganda
San Cassiano
Valbondione
Valtellina
Valmasino
Bormio
Selvapiana
Spriana
Val di Mello
Arquino
Gajum
Civate

Guide to Bouldering Sites in the Molise Region

BOULDERING AREAS IN THE MOLISE REGION

Boulder Sites in the Molise Region

Molise is one of the lesser known of the Italian regions, and offers a few climbing sites to explore.  A beautiful site is located in the hills near Meschia.  However, the bouldering site suffers from access issues.

BOULDER SITES IN THE MOLISE REGION

Meschia

Guide to Bouldering Sites in the Sardinia Region

BOULDERING AREAS IN THE SARDINIA REGION

Sardinia Buldering Sites

The island of Sardinia has several great bouldering sites to explore.  The island makes a destination for a great climbing vacation.

BOULDERING SITES IN THE SARDINIA

Torre della Stella
Rio Cannas
Orani
Ollollal
Caprera
Maddalena

Guide to Bouldering Sites in the Sicily Region

BOULDERING AREAS IN THE SICILY REGION

Bouldering Sites in the Sicily Region

Volcanic rock dominates the Sicily sites, boulder at the foot of Enta or along the sea.

BOULDER SITES ON THE ISLAND OF SICILY

Barcarello
Castellluccio
Capocalava
Monte Enta
Monte Conca (Linguaglossa)
Aci Castello
Lipari Island

Lumignano Bouldering Area, Vicenza Province

LUMIGNANO BOULDERING AREA | VENETO

Bouldering Guide Italy, Lumignano Vicenza

There is a small cliff just to the left of the Eremo sector and below the Americano sector. The area is a small band of compact gray limestone a dozen offer a lot of routes, but the routes that are there are very specific.

At one time this area was cleaned out to make a small training area, and there was several small pocket drilled cleaned into the rock. However, there are plenty of good problems and many of the drilled holes have been and are being filled. You top out on a shelf at highest part 4 meters off the ground. A hand line has been placed for safety, and you exit the shelf to the left or right. There are two routes that I have bolted for the comfort of those who do not want to do a higher problem. There are multi possibilities on some of the routes, and I have only marked the obvious lines.

Bouldering Lumignano

Lumignano is just south of Vicenza which can be reached by Train. The city bus will take you to the cliff area better know for Rock Climbing. 

LUMIGNANO BOULDERING GUIDE

  Problems listed right to left Grade
1 Bebe B1
2 Kama..ha standing B3
3 Kama...ha sitting B3
4 no name B3
5 Odin B2
6 OutterSpace B1
7 Easy B1
8 Scar B1
9 Face B1

Magic Woods Bouldering Area

MAGIC WOODS BOULDERING AREA

Magic Woods Bouldering Area

It is a nice boulder area in the S. Berdardino valley area with a good variety of problems for all levels.

The area has gone through several years of development and a period of uncertainty to remain open due to lack of care by visiting climbers. Today it has become a community project within the valley. The community has built a simple campground and parking area to support the area and replaced the old cable traverse with an Iron bridge. The positioning of the campground and bridge, has help reduce some of the heavy foot traffic and there is a greater awareness of using the toilets at the campground but keep in mind the area is fragile and be on your best behavior when visiting the site. The area is not a destination site to spend a week or more but rather better suited for a two or three day stop over on your way to a larger area.

Weather you wish to boulder solo or as a group there are problems to work on, however it is best to have one or two good crash pads. Many boulders are surrounded by talus or there is a steep drop close by. It is best to climb the area with a small group and share several crash pads.

The area's best sectors are easiest to approach on the upper bridge. The lower bridge can be a pain to cross, due to being narrow, if you have allot of bags and a large crashpad. I found the day works well by starting from the upper bridge and working my way back toward the camp ground crossing the lower bridge at the end of the day.

Keep in mind that the area is in a steep valley and the stream bed sits in the path below a hydroelectric dam. If you are working on one of the stream boulders and happen to hear a siren, it would be best to vacate to higher ground quickly. Most of the good problems are located on higher ground and there are several little sectors that have been developed on the years. So problems ore marked with arrows and numbers while other know by the regular visitors. after a couple of days it is fairly easy to orientate yourse

Maiolo Bouldering Area, in Cesena Province

MAIOLO BOULDERING AREA | EMILIA ROMAGNA

Maiolo Bouldering Site

 Fortress of San Leo

The Maiolo bouldering area is a small group of sandstone bloc's that sit in the hills southwest of the Republic of San Marino, in the Emilia Romagna Region. The boulder problems are marked by name, and most are single problems with one obvious solution, not eliminators. The landing area is safe, but in the warmer months the site tends to get overgrown, so keep an eye out for snakes and ticks.  There are 50 blocs listed by the locals but during my visit I found almost 20 good sized blocs with solid problems. The rest of the blocs are small and "if I have nothing better to climb" type of blocs. If you are visiting the Republic of San Marino or Rimini, and like to do a few problems, Maiolo Bouldering area is worth the visit. As well if you passing near Rimini and need a rest stop this is a great visit off the main tourist trek with lots of extras to visit.

GETTING TO THE MAIOLO BOULDERING AREA

The town to head toward is Rimini.  Then link up with the A-14 autostrada section running between Bologna and Rimini.  You will want to take the Nord Rimini exit and follow SP-49 south to San Martino di Mulini.  From here turn south on SS- 249 (also marked as SP-14 in some sections) to the town of Ca' di Vento.  Just after Ca di Vento turn following the signs to Maiolo (SP Montefeltrese) passing through the small community of Maiolo and then turning left to Boscara.  You will park at the intersection of via Poggio and walk to the bouldering site.

Latitude: 43*52'56.81"N
Longitude: 12*19'41.72"E

Maiolo Boulder site

View from Poggio

MAIOLO BOULDERING GUIDE

REGION Emilia Romagna Region
PROVINCE Forli-Cesena Province
NEAREST MAJOR CITY Rimini
BEST TIME OF YEAR Fall, Winter, and early Spring
TYPE OF ROCK Sandstone
LANDING Good,
HEIGHT OF BLOCKS 1-3 meters
GRADES 4 - 7c
NUMBER OF BLOC'S 53
VISIT DAYS 2-3  Days
GUIDEBOOK  None known

Maiolob Bouldering Site

BOULDERS AT THE MAIOLO SITE

Bloc 0 Zerox3= Che dolore N.L. (sit), 3verso N.L. (sit), Bordo Dx 5a (sit), Bordo Sx 4b (sit)
Bloc 1 Jump 6b, Tintorera 8?, Black block 6a+ (7a+ sit), Orangesite 7a (sit)
Bloc 2 ZiHulk 6b+ (sit), Spigoplus 7b (sit)
Bloc 3 La bocca della verità 6c (sit)
Bloc 4 No fire here 6b (sit), Acqua 6a (sit), Micio incredibilis 7a (sit), Tacco e punta 6b+ (sit)
Bloc 5 Dotazionenaturale 6a (sit), Il trippone 6c (sit), Il piatto del trippone 7a (trippone allungato sit), Micro N.L. (sit)
Bloc 6 Giro di punta 5c (sit), Maura dove sei ? Varie 3a Spazzolami 3a
Bloc 7 Zaganella 4a
Bloc 8 L'abbraccio dellamorte N.L., Eliporto 7a Atterraggio interdetto 6b (sit), Gorka Morka 7c+, Diapomania 6c+, Zenigata alleurne 5c, Vota Lupen 4c, Pesce dimaggio 4b, Zio fifone bis 5a
Bloc 10 Barella 5c (sit), Rocco la merda N.L.
Bloc 11 Progetto ?, Inferi sx 6b (sit), Inferi sx 6b+ (sit), Il folletto 6a (sit), Equilibrium 6a (6b sit), Superbia 5b (sit), Io zombo 5a (sit), Vuzzero 5a (sit), Patana 6a (sit), Ombra atomica 7b+, Progetto
Bloc 12 Potaland 6a (6a+ var.dir.)
Bloc 13 Magnesite sulsaio 6b (sit), Il monaco di Maiolo N.L., Fabihook 6b+
Bloc 14 Il lungo e il baro 6b/c (sit), Booh! 6c, Nuevaonda 6b/c, Booh!+Nueva onda 7a+, Mi tengo 7b/c (sit)
Bloc 15 Variefacili
Bloc 16 La visita 6a+, Grande prestazione 6a, Cu-cu 5b, Acidolattico ?, Mario five.. maestro nike 4a
Bloc 18 La morale è sempre quella 6b+, Girella 6a+, Zio fifone 5b (sit), Golosastro 6b (senzaintermedi), Notevole 7a
Bloc 19 Avarizia 6b (sit), Asparagi ?, Cazzi amari ?, Spotter ?, Nirvana 4b
Bloc 20 Tracce di magnesite 7a (sit), Ciao Oscar 6c (sit), Il coraggio dello zio 5a, Saga dx 6a (sit) sx 6a+, Sedutone (sit) N.L., Ribaltone 5a (sit), Raga 5b (sit)
Bloc 21 Variefacili
Bloc 23 Zeccarella 6a
Bloc 25 Oplà 6a (sit), Kirikù 7a (sit)
Bloc 26 Sergente Garcia 6b, El robusto 6b+, Daver dur 7c/7c+ (sit), Nelsen 7a (allungata fino a sergente garcia 7b), Cip 6a, Ciop 5c, Uigang 5b, Hispanico 6a+, Italico N.L., Gola N.L. (sit)
Bloc 27 Il saltamario 6c (sit)
Bloc 28 Cubo N.L. (sit)
Bloc 30 Lussuria 5b (sit), Il nuovoaiutante 5c (sit)
Bloc 32 L’ombra delconvento N.L.
Bloc 34 Penitentes 6b (sit)
Bloc 35 Tra fede e trazione 6a+
Bloc 36 Ira 6c+ (sit), Keno 6a (sit), Keno+Ira 7a+ (sit)
Bloc 37 Invidia 5b
Bloc 40 Sotto la neve 6a (sit), Blocco barocco 6c (sit), Brocco chi non passa 6a+ (sit), Accidia 6a (sit), Stratagoing (facile)
Bloc 41 Mely baby 3c
Bloc 43 Blocdi briscola 6b ?, (variante senza bucone) 7a
Bloc 44 30 cavalli per un funerale N.L.
Bloc 45 Titanic 6b+ (sit), La schiena del mondo N.L.
Bloc 48 30 volte Panda (3varianti sit) fino al 6a
Bloc 49 Stile Oscar 6a+ (sit), Lo ripianto più in là 6b (sit), Non riesco a lolottare 5a (sit)
Bloc 51 Peace for war 6b (sit)
Bloc 52 Fiori gialli (sit) ?, Pioggia (sit) ?
Bloc 53 Ego ? (sit)

Neu-gais Bouldering Site, Bolzano Province

NEU-GAIS BOULDERING AREA | TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE

kill bill problem neu gais

Kill Bill Problem

Neugais Bouldering site is located just north of Brunico in the Campo Tures and offers a nice 1/2 day of bouldering in the woods on the side of a hill.  There  are only about 7 blocs's to work on but all are high difficulty problems.  Also, there is the climbing site of Neugais to enjoy if you have a rope with you. 

REMEMBER TO SUPPORT THE LOCAL CLIMBERS AND BUY A GUIDE BOOK!

AND RESPECT THE AREA, DO NOT LITTER, CHIP, OR BE RUDE

NEU-GAIS BOULDERING GUIDE

Nearest major city: Burnico
Nearest Airport:
  • Regional - Bolzano
  • International - Venice Marco Polo
Public Transportation

Regional Train to Brunico, Local bus to within walking distance of the site

Best time of year:

Best season is March to June and September to Dec

Rock Type

Granite

Landing/Equipment
  • Good landing in most area's but a large crash pad is a must
  • Stiff brush to clean (especially if in the area in August)
  • Higher up on the slope can be risky if you pop off high on the route.
Rock Height 1-3 meters
Difficulty Levels

6c - 8a

  • This is not a destination site, but worth a visit if you combine the site with other bouldering areas nearby.
  • Located in the Bolzano province of the Trentino-Alto Adige. 
  • Best time of the year to climb is April-May  the Oct and Nov

Passo Sella Bouldering Area, Trento Province

PASSO SELLA BOULDERING AREA | TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE

Bouldering Italy Passo Sella

If you are passing through the Italian Dolomites this is a great place to stop for a day of bouldering and climbing.  Many times when I am hiking or climbing in the Sella or Sassolungo Mountain Groups, I stay in the pass to climb a few problems to relax.  The atmosphere can not be beat with tremendous views, but the bouldering is not exactly top quality.  Most rock does not have just one way to climb, so everything has become marked like a bouldering gym, if you do not follow the right arrows you will never know if you do a specific problem.  However, if you are bouldering for the fun of bouldering this is a fun stop with some great rocks.  

PASSO SELLA BOULDERING GUIDE

MOUNTAIN AREA Passo Sella
REGION Trentino Alto Adige
LOCATION Trento Province
NEAREST CITY Canazei
TIME OF YEAR  Summer
APPROACH TIME  2 minutes
ROCK  Dolomite
LANDING  Excellent
RANGE OF GRADES  V1 - V11 (200+ problems)
GUIDEBOOK MAPS  

Boulder Italy Passo Sella Sketch

Placche Zebrata Bouldering Area, Trento Province

PLACCHE ZEBRATA BOULDERING AREA | TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE

Placche Zebrata bouldering area, Arco Italy

If you get tired of roped climbing while visiting Arco, Trento, there is a small bouldering area at the base of Placche Zebrata.  Placche Zebrata has always been, well known as a multi-pitch climbing wall, there are several nice boulders shattered along the valley.  The rock is a soft grey limestone, with side pulls and crimps, the climbing is fun and explosive.  

PLACCHE ZEBRATA BOULDERING GUIDE

REGION Trentino-Alto Adige
PROVINCE Trento
NEAREST TRAIN STATION Rovereto
Placche Zembrata bouldering map
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone
NUMBER OF BLOC'S 19+
LANDING ZONE Good

Placche Zebrata Bouldering Parking

Placche Zebrata Parking Area

Placche Zebrata Bouldering, Arco Italy

Selvapiana Bouldering Area, Sondrio Province

SELVA PIANA BOULDERING AREA | LOMBARDY REGION

Selvapiana is a small bouldering area in the Valtellino Valley. There area only a few boulders and not really worth a special visit, but it is a great option if you get to Val di Mello and cannot climb due to access or weather.  The lower area near the village is the best place, there is a upper area as well, however it is not frequented much.

SELVAPIANA BOULDERING GUIDE

REGION Lombardy
PROVINCE Sondrio
NEAREST TOWN Morbegno
GEOGRAPHY Valtellino Valley
BEST TIME OF YEAR Fall. Winter, and Spring
APPROACH TIME 5 minutes
ROCK Granite
LANDING Good
RANGE OF GRADES 5b - 7b
GUIDEBOOK  

Spriana Bouldering Area, Sondrio Province

SPRIANA BOULDERING AREA |LOMBARDY

spriana

Spriana is located in the small village of the same name and a great place to visit with young climbers.  Located the town park there are posted signs for the various problems.

SPRIANA BOULDERING GUIDE

REGION Lombardy
PROVINCE Sondrio
NEAREST TOWN Sondrio
GEOGRAPHY Alps
BEST TIME OF YEAR All Year
APPROACH TIME 1 minute
ROCK Granite
LANDING Very Good
RANGE OF GRADES 5b - 7b
GUIDEBOOK  

Tobl Bouldering Site, Bolzano Province

TOBL BOULDERING AREA | TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE

tobl campo tures

Tobl Bouldering site is located just north of Brunico in the Campo Tures Valley.   The area is made of two individual sectors; Tobl and Tobl Kehre both sectors offer several easy routes.  There is also a climbing wall at the location.

REMEMBER TO SUPPORT THE LOCAL CLIMBERS AND BUY A GUIDE BOOK!
AND RESPECT THE AREA, DO NOT LITTER, CHIP, OR BE RUDE

TOBL BOULDERING GUIDE

Region Trentino Alto Adige Region
Province Bolzano Province
Nearest major city: Brunico
Nearest Airport:
  • Regional - Bolzano
  • International - Venice Marco Polo
Public Transportation

Regional Train to Brunico, Local bus to within walking distance of the site

Best time of year:

Best season is March to June and September to Dec

Rock Type

Granite

Landing/Equipment
  • Good landing in most area's but a large crash pad is a must
  • Stiff brush to clean (especially if in the area in August)
  • Higher up on the slope can be risky if you pop off high on the route.
Rock Height 1-3 meters
Difficulty Levels

4 - 7a

This is not a destination site, but worth a visit if you combine the site with other bouldering areas nearby.

  • Located in the Bolzano province of the Trentino-Alto Adige. 
  • Best time of the year to climb is April-May  the Oct and Nov

Sectors

  1. Tobl - 8 bloc's
  2. Tolb Kehre - 7 bloc's

Val Daone Bouldering Area, The Curve Sector

VAL DOANE BOUDERING AREA | THE CURVE SECTOR

Bouldering Val Doane Italy

THE CURVE SECTOR AT VAL DAONE

The Curve sector is the lazy man's bouldering area.  Park and climb, there is no long approaches or searching to find the rocks.  The only bad aspect to easy access is the polished rock on some of the problems.   The main boulder is a tall triangle block on the right side of the road as you drive up the valley. Bring an extra crash pad or a strong buddy to catch you in the event of a fall, some of the problems fairly tall. There are around 20+ cleaned boulders and a great area visit if you are climbing by yourself.

Bouldering Val Doane Italy Map

The Curve Sector is just before the Dam and First Lake.

Bouldering Val Doane Italy

The Curve Sector of Val Daone Sketch

Boulder Val Doane Italy

Boulder ALL GRADES LISTED IN V Scale Boulder
1

overhang wall V7, Right side Arete V 8

12 Right side egg V6
2

Left Arete V7, Wall V7

13 Straight through roof V11 , right along arete V9
3 MantleV3, 14 Wall V 2
4

Crack V0, wall V3, right wall V7

15 Wall V8, Arete V2
5

Traverse V3

16 Overhang wall V3, Arete overhang V9
6 Wall V3 17 Slab V2
7

Roof V2

18 Overhang wall V8
8 Traverse V5 19 Right side V2, Left side wall V6
9 Left side arete V3, Wall V5 20 Traverse V6, Roof V9
10 Arete V5, Overhang V4 21

Wall V5

Val Daone Bouldering Area, Trento Province

VAL DAONE BOULDERING AREA | TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE

Bouldering Val Daone Italy

Val Daone has been one of my favorite places for many years, a nice valley on the southern edge of the Adamello national park. A quiet place know for its hydroelectric dams, ice climbs in the winter, and stone walls for classic climbing, until a few years ago, then the boulders started to be explored. The valley now has more visits, but there are still quiet times during the weekday.

Valle Daone is a beautiful alpine valley sitting on the southern slope of the Adamello mountain group. The narrow valley has been a popular destination for Ice Climbing for several years and now is enjoying a new surge of interest due to the large amount of boulders throughout the valley. The valley is perhaps the most tranquil and natural settings I have found in Europe and the quality of rock makes this a great destination of someone who just wants to climb and be. There is a large amount of rock to be climbed in the area, but it does take a bit of movement to get from one zone to the other and even in some in zones there is quite a bit distance between boulders.

VAL DAONE BOULDERING GUIDE

REGION Trentino Alto Adige Region
PROVINCE Trento Province
LOCATION Italian Alps (Adamello Mountain Groups)
NEAREST CITY
Trento

Bouldering Val Doane Map

BEST TIME OF YEAR

You can boulder all year, but winter snows can close upper sectors

APPROACH TIME

5 - 15 minutes

ROCK

Granite

LANDING
  • Good landing in most area's but a large crash pad is a must
  • Stiff brush to clean (especially if in the area in August)
RANGE OF GRADES V1 - V12 (300+ problems)
GUIDEBOOK MAP

 

REMEMBER TO SUPPORT THE LOCAL CLIMBERS AND BUY A GUIDE BOOK!

AND RESPECT THE AREA, DO NOT LITTER, CHIP, OR BE RUDE

Bouldering Italy, Val Doane Sectors

 

Sectors

  1. Forest Sector
  2. The Curve Sector
  3. Tunnel Sector
  4. Casa Alpina
  5. Steam Sector
  6. Meadow Sector

Val di Mello Bouldering Area, Sondrio Province

VAL DI MELLO BOULDERING AREA | LOMBARDY REGION

Val di Mello Bouldering Area

Val di Mello Bouldering Area is located in the Sondrio Province, of the Lombardy Region.  The boulders sit in a lovely upper alpine valley on the southern slopes of the Bernina Alps.  The Mello Valley has always been known for its traditional Alpine routes on good quality granite, there are lots of boulders to enjoy, but be sure and respect the surrounding area.

WHAT IS THE BOULDERING LIKE IN VAL DI MELLO

The rock is granite and problems tend to be technical rather than explosive. The grain or the rock is rather smooth and though many of the problems look easy they can be much more challenging due to body tension needed.  Most boulders have good landing zones are there are several highballs, a few extra crash pads can come in handy.  The valley has become a destination point in May for the annual Mellobloc Bouldering Competition. A fun bouldering fest patterned after the old Phoenix Bouldering Competition, there are not as many problems and this is a much more established bouldering site so not a lot of new stuff, but a great party.

The best time of the year to visit the valley is April, May, September and October.  In the winter time there are very few places to climb in the sun so the valley is quite cold, and in the summer it is very hot.  

VAL DI MELLO BOULDERING GUIDE

REGION Lombardy
PROVINCE Sondrio
NEAREST CITY Sondrio
GEOGRAPHY Alps
BEST TIME OF YEAR Spring and Fall
APPROACH TIME 5 minutes
ROCK Granite
LANDING Possible to climb with one crash pad
RANGE OF GRADES 5b - 8b
GUIDE BOOK  

Val Masino Bouldering Area, Sondrio Province

VAL MASINO BOULDERING AREA | LOMBARDY region

 

Val Masino is part of the Val di Mello bouldering area and one of the more popular sites in Italy.  Large granite boulders are spread throughout the valley starting a the village of Filorera.  There are several sectors and 100's of problems.

VAL MASINO BOULDERING GUIDE

REGION Lombardy
PROVINCE Sondrio
NEAREST CITY Sondrio
GEOGRAPHY Alps
BEST TIME OF YEAR Spring and Fall
APPROACH TIME 5 minutes
ROCK Granite/Gneis
LANDING Mixed
RANGE OF GRADES 5a - 8b
GUIDE BOOK  

Villa Santa Caterina Bouldering Area, Bolzano Province

VILLA SANTA CATERINA BOULDERING AREA | TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE

villa santa caterina

Villa Santa Caterina is located just north of Brunico in the Campo Tures area and offers a nice day of bouldering in the woods on the side of a hills.  There are several good problems but locals have marked the rocks with arrows to designate specific problems.  I personally found the arrows to be a bit confusing (as happens many times when the rock is marked), but there are several good natural lines you can follow and just forget about the marks, unless you happen to run into a local to show you the ropes. 

Nearby is a small pond (Lake) that offers camping and is full of tourist in the summer.  The small town of Villa Santa Caterina does not have a lot of facilities but you can get the basic needs for food and water.

REMEMBER TO SUPPORT THE LOCAL CLIMBERS AND BUY A GUIDE BOOK!

AND RESPECT THE AREA, DO NOT LITTER, CHIP, OR BE RUDE

VILLA SANTA CATERINA BOULDERING GUIDE

Region Trentino Alto Adige Region Adige Region
Province Bolzano Province
Mountain Central Alps
Nearest major city: Brunico
Nearest Airport:
  • Regional - Bolzano
  • International - Venice Marco Polo
Public Transportation

Regional Train to Brunico, Local bus to within walking distance of the site

Best time of year:

Best season is March to June and September to Dec

Rock Type

Granite

Landing/Equipment
  • Good landing in most area's but a large crash pad is a must
  • Stiff brush to clean (especially if in the area in August)
  • Higher up on the slope can be risky if you pop off high on the route.
Rock Height 1-5 meters
Difficulty Levels

4- 7b

 

  • This is not a destination site but worth a visit if you combine the site with other bouldering areas nearby.
  • Located in the Bolzano province of the Trentino-Alto Adige. 
  • Best time of the year to climb is April-May  the Oct and Nov

Sectors

  1. There is a Main area of about 30 bloc's
  2. Higher up on the hill are a few solitary bloc's

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