Magic Woods Bouldering Area
MAGIC WOODS BOULDERING AREA
It is a nice boulder area in the S. Berdardino valley area with a good variety of problems for all levels.
The area has gone through several years of development and a period of uncertainty to remain open due to lack of care by visiting climbers. Today it has become a community project within the valley. The community has built a simple campground and parking area to support the area and replaced the old cable traverse with an Iron bridge. The positioning of the campground and bridge, has help reduce some of the heavy foot traffic and there is a greater awareness of using the toilets at the campground but keep in mind the area is fragile and be on your best behavior when visiting the site. The area is not a destination site to spend a week or more but rather better suited for a two or three day stop over on your way to a larger area.
Weather you wish to boulder solo or as a group there are problems to work on, however it is best to have one or two good crash pads. Many boulders are surrounded by talus or there is a steep drop close by. It is best to climb the area with a small group and share several crash pads.
The area's best sectors are easiest to approach on the upper bridge. The lower bridge can be a pain to cross, due to being narrow, if you have allot of bags and a large crashpad. I found the day works well by starting from the upper bridge and working my way back toward the camp ground crossing the lower bridge at the end of the day.
Keep in mind that the area is in a steep valley and the stream bed sits in the path below a hydroelectric dam. If you are working on one of the stream boulders and happen to hear a siren, it would be best to vacate to higher ground quickly. Most of the good problems are located on higher ground and there are several little sectors that have been developed on the years. So problems ore marked with arrows and numbers while other know by the regular visitors. after a couple of days it is fairly easy to orientate yourse