Bouldering Guide To Italy

Italy has several great Bouldering Areas that are destination worthy. What better way to escape the crowds and COVID issues than plan a road trip through Italy combining Bouldering, Italian Culture, Food and Wine, with Adventure. In the past several years bouldering in Italy has become just as importation as roped climbing and other mountaineering activities. Within the Italian Dolomites, Italian Alps, and Apennine mountain groups there is a good variety of rock types and climbing styles creating seasonal destinations throughout the country. Sometimes by combining smaller sites along a projected travel plan you can keep all levels of climbers and non climbers in your group happy.

For me the destinations with the most developed bouldering areas in Italy are in  the Piedmont Region, Trentino Alto Adige, Lombardy Region, and Sardinia, in terms of number of sites.  However you will find some surprisingly large sites in the Marche Region and Tuscany Region, where you could send several days. The best areas to climb on granite are in the Trentino-Alto Adige, Piedmont, and Lombardy Regions. If you are looking for sand stone you should head for the Emilia Romagna Region, Tuscany Region, and the Marches. The Islands of Sicily and Sardinia have several great sites to explore that are a course granite. There are also several small sites with volcanic rock throughout the county. So check out our info and start planning your next Stone Crusade. 

GUIDE TO BOULDERING IN ITALY

In this guide I am listing places I have visited, plan to visit, and have heard whispers about. Since I do not know who established the all the routes I can not say who developed the area or provide complete guides to all the blocs. So, before you get pissed and upset, accept my apologies in advance, I am trying to provide a good starter guide for individuals to get to an area and start climbing. The joy of the sport is that we can all climb for ourselves and gain our own individual level of success. If you are visiting an area ALWAYS CONSIDER BUYING A LOCAL GUIDEBOOK to find the grades and updated route information, and hopefully helping to support those who clean and develop the area. 

Bouldering Sites In Italy Reviews And General Information

As we are traveling around Italy and climbing we continue to do a short reviews of the general information about areas we visit. These are our opinions and viewpoints as a traveler not a local so our views may vary from other sites. We evaluate area by the following points.

  • How fun is the area (we grade routes as fun, hard, and too hard and no longer caught up with other grading systems.)
  • Ease to reach the area and find the blocs.
  • Safety and environment.
  • After the bouldering activities or things to see.

Keep in mind the following as you visit any bouldering site.

Bouldering ethics should be simple just walk around, find a boulder and top it out!

  • If you do not need to top out don't. Leave the natural plants and moss in place if possible. Remember they are helping create O2 for us.
  • Chipping: What you can't remove with a stiff plastic brush should stay (unless something is very loose and dangerous).
  • Leaving tick-marks: When red pointing a boulder it is useful to mark the rock in order to find the holds and mark your sequence. However, it is very important that your drawings are brushed away as to not confuse other climbers.
  • Carry your trash and waste out with you. Always have a plastic bag in your pack.
  • Be respectful of locals. Save the party for the clubs or other places.  Several great places worldwide continue to get closed too climbers due to individuals being rude, dirty, loud, and destructive.

Val Diaone

Mialao Bouldering Area

Other Rock

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EXPLORING THE OUTDOORS

Guide to Outdoor Recreation

TRAVEL ITALY

Travel Guide to Italy