Rockclimbing Guide Italy

Spiaggia delle Lucertole Climbing Area, Trento Province Spiaggia delle Lucertole is located along the eastern shore of Lake Garda and in the Trentino-Alto Adige Region.  The climbing site is a nice grey limestone wall with technical routes on a slab wall.  Spiaggia delle Lucertole was bolted in the late 70's or early 80's by some of the historical climbers of the region.  Once a popular place to climb the area is now a bit polished and most people visiting the area, are there to climb the beginner slab walk on the opposite side.  Spiaggia delle Lucertole would be an excellent deep water solo site if the wall was overhanging, instead you risk hitting the wall is you fall from higher up.  The base of the routes can be reached by lowering off from above. Be sure to have a good sling to attach yourself to the wall with that is long enough for you to be comfortable in the belay. SPIAGGIA DELLE LUCERTOLE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE REGION Trentino Alto Adige PROVINCE Trento Province LOCATION Arco GEOGRAPHY Monte Baldo TYPE OF ROCK Limestone NUMBER OF ROUTES 20+ GRADE RANGE 6a+ to 7c TYPE OF ROUTES technical, crimps, footwork HEIGHT 35 meters EQUIPMENT 15 quick draws, sling for belaying below Special notes:  Parking is limited and not always safe.  Be sure to leave nothing in your car.  GETTING TO SPIAGGIA DELLE LUCERTOLE If you are climbing at Spiaggia delle Lucertole it is most likely because you are visiting the Arco Climbing Area.  So coming north from Torbole you will drive south along Lake Garda.  The climbing area is about 10 km from Torbole.  If you are driving from somewhere other than Arco I would suggest you exit at the Rovereto Sud autostrade exit and following the signs to Riva del Grade until you arrive to Torbole.  Driving up the lake from the south is a nice drive but if you are there during a weekend or holiday season there is too much traffic. You can reach the area by bus from the Rovereto Train station.  ROUTES Daffy-daffy         6a+    Ventofobia 6a+ Without name 6c Funky ma chic       7b Bepi nero 7a Piccola dose 7a+ Honky tonky 6b+ Cicala clack 7b+ Peyote al rabarbaro    7c Pat und patachon 6b+ Albatros 6b/7c  Luisa violenta 6b+/5b/7a  La signora degli appigli    7c Non seguitemi mi sono perso   7b Tom tom club 6b/7b Sentierissimo 7a Laurie 7a Trota 6c Tom e Jerry 7c

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Rockclimbing Guider Italy

SERRADA CLIMBING AREA | TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE REGION Serrada is a small crag located in the Pre-Alps, at 1250 meters elevation, making it a good location for the hotter months. The crag is a vertical sheer of Grey limestone that offers 36 routes, to date, ranging from 6a to 7b.  There is still room for future development and the quality of rock makes climbing enjoyable and changeling on small edges.  Good finger strength and technique are demanded. ACCESS From the A22 motorway exit Rovereto Sud head towards Serrada by car 28 km, then 5 minutes on foot.Exit from the Autostrada Rovereto Sud and follow the indications for Rovereto. After 1.5 km turn right on the main road towards the centre of Rovereto and pass the commercial centre (Millennium Centre). At the second roundabout turn left in the direction of Trento SS 12 and take the left-hand land. Continue straight on, until the large roundabout at the train station (from the motorway's exit A22 Rovereto Sud 7 km). Turn right and follow the signs for Centro and SP2 Serrada- Folgaria. Take the SP2 Serrada-Folgaria and continue for nearly 19 km, passing through the various villages of the Comune di Terragnolo. After passing the sign "Magnifica Comunità di Folgaria", the Restaurant Cogola can be seen on the curve. Park the car on the right after 50 meters in a large parking area. From here enter via San Rocco on the extreme right, and continue for another 20 metres shooting off at the first curve on the right. Follow the track behind the Ristorante Cogola, and after 100 metres the track becomes a descending path that enters into the woods leading to the crag. SERRADA ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE REGION Trentino Alto Adige PROVINCE Trento Province LOCATION Rovereto GEOGRAPHY Monte Lessini TYPE OF ROCK Limestone NUMBER OF ROUTES 30+ GRADE RANGE 6a+ to 7c TYPE OF ROUTES technical, crimps, footwork HEIGHT 35 meters EQUIPMENT 15 quick draws, sling for belaying below Special notes: ROUTES SECTOR A         Maiyumi             7b       Tsunami 6a+ Manu 4b Mr. Boombastic 4a Eclisse 99 6b La morte nera 6c+ Starway to Heaven       6c Danton 5a Hawk 6a Spitfollia 6a+ Phoenomena 6a Ghost 6a Microtest 6c Melancholy 4b SECTOR B   Spider 6b Megawatt 6b/c Die hard 6b Crow 6b Mururoa 6a Jessica 6a+ No love 6c Balla coi lupi 6c Condor 6b+ Esorciccio 6a+ Maiemi 6b+ Mani di velluto 6b+ The wall 7a Kaos 6b Zanzibar 6a Caduta massi 6b Giada 6b SECTOR C   Cuzco 6a+ Indios 3c Kursk 6b Totem 6a Tsaatan 5b Yeti 5c Ibis 6a Lady Diana 6a+ Ghibli 6a+ Mephisto 6b Lucifero 6c Congedo express 6c Traverso perverso 6b Due dita prime falangi      6c Jovannona 6b Angel of death 6c+ Robespierre 6c Pirata 6c Chipko 5a SECTOR D   Ayers rock 6a Hidalgo 6a Inca 5c Viper 5a Nandu 5a Za' Bj 4a Bali 5c/6a     Machu Picchu 6b Licheni 6b Tarkine 6b+ Ugly 6b+ Miwok 6a Maya 6b+ Euro 6a Canyon 4c SECTOR E   Non mollare mai 6c+ Braveheart 6b+ Zia Lilli 6a Variante 4a Kombai 5a Spirit 6b+ Time flies 6b Rocky grey 6b+ El paradiso 6b Super Silvia 6b+ Yunnan 6c My wife is an angel 6b+ Malik 6a Sun 6a

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Rockclimbing Guide Italy

NAGO ROCKCLIMBING AREA | TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE REGION The Rock Climbing site known as Nago is located just west of the small town of Nago.  The town sits overlooking the Lake of Garda (Italy's largest lake) and is perhaps the second most visited climbing site in the area.  The climbing site offers over 120 routes at average grade of 6b, so this attracts lots of climbers.  There are plenty of lower grades to work on and improve your skill levels and the location is very scenic. NAGO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE Nearest City Nago, Trento Type of Site Sport Climbing Site Type of Rock Limestone, edges Best time of Year Spring and Fall, but you can also climb in the summer late afternoon Grades 4 - 8a Map or Guidebook Within Arco there is a complete guide book for the area Reachable by Public Transportation Public bus will get you to Nago and then it is a 20 minute walk up to the site. Visitor Rating 2-3 days   ACCESS From Arco by car 7,5 km (or 9,5 km), then 5-10 minutes on foot.From the bridge over the river Sarca follow the SS240 for Rovereto. Reaching the roundabout at Nago continue straight ahead, passing the Hotel Rubino after the traffic lights, turn right following the indications for Strada Monte Baldo. Continue for 1 km passing through the vineyards to reach the junction signposted Capitello S. Giuseppe. For the lower sectors: enter the track on the right and continue for 400 metres until reaching a convenient parking spot next the Ranch house. Leave the car and continue along the Sentiero della Pace for 300 meters. At the first fork turn left (signposted Malga Zures) and continue ahead until arriving at a wall below the first lower sector and Mangusta sector. From here it is easy to reach sectors la Mandria and Centrale (and the other sectors).For the higher sectors (Spleen, Il Tasso and I Ciclopi): once reached the junction marked by the Capitello S. Giuseppe continue ahead along the tarmac road, climbing towards Monte Baldo and passing through olives and pines with fine views across Lago di Garda. After 2 km park on the left by the side of the road directly in front of the top sectors. Leave your car and head towards the bend and go into the woods. Follow the evident path always straight and in 5 minutes reach Sector I Ciclopi and successively to the other sectors Il Tasso, Spleen and Central. ROUTES SECTOR MANGUSTA                Without name ? Flash 7c Without name ? Without name ? Without name 7c Der sonne entgegen 7c/+ Mangusta 8c Black tooth grin 8a+/b    California 91 7a+/b Warbeast  8c+ Ghost rider 8c Great southern trendkill      8b+ No hope goat farm 8c+ Without name ? Moustache corner 8a Without name 8a Without name 8a/b Via Nicola 7c+ Ssoul 8b/+ Without name ? Without name ? Without name 7a+ Without name ? SECTOR MASSI   Un bar per Rita 5c Without name ? Buon anno 5b Fufi 6b Without name ? Bucking bronco 8c+ Without name ? LOWER SECTOR   Without name 6b+ Without name 6a/b Without name ? Without name 5c Without name 6b Without name 6a Without name 6a/b Vogue 6a Nuvola rossa 6a Giochi d'ombra 5c Take it easy 5c Without name 5b Without name 4c Without name 4c Without name 5b Without name 4b Il calabrone  5c Ramba 6a+ Without name 5a Phanton 6b+ Chiedi a Beppo 6b Panorama 6b+ Kira 7a+ Il panettiere 6c+ Dee e socia 7b+ Mario lo sa 7b Ruggiero lo perfido 6a+ Fuori orario 6c SECTOR LA MANDRIA          Bali 6a Visigoti 6a Unni 4c Zuppa zupa 2c/6a Parampopoli 2c/6a+ Alcor 5b Winkibongo 5a Asdù 5b Enzo Molinari 6a Il capriccio 7c Supermario 7c Gobazio 6a/b La mandria 6a Mario Polenta  6a Jeffo 6a+ Lillilla 6a+ CENTRAL SECTOR   La placca  5b/6b Cato zulù 6b+ Lo sconosciuto 6b+ Peach pitt 6c Torpedo 7a+ Mammalucco 7a Genesi 7a Nibbio 6b+ Uccelli di rovo 7b+ Astuzio 6b+ Esuli lontani 7a La nonna va in Australia 6c+ Tasmania 7a Crisalide 6c Coda di porco 6b Facile 5a Asdo da melch 7c Grisù 7a+ Lucacapiotti 7b+ Dago 7b+ Eh mersh 7b Culo dritto 7b Huligani dangeraux 7a+ Passeggeri del vento 7b+ Lunatica 7b Boulevard 7c Per sempre Mary 7b+ I soliti ignoti 7a Sbargek 6b+ Lupo Alberto 6c+/7a+   Titanic 7a Iceberg 7a+ Gandalf 6c+ Esodo 6b Cohelet 6b+ Swami il bullo 5b Nillo il bello 5b SECTOR SPLEEN   Troppo buoni con le donne         5c Nevermore 6c+ Spleen 6a+ Eqinox 6a+ Gerico 6a Night'fly 5c Super tramp 5c Good bye stranger 6a Cif 5c Ragioner Filini 5b Mega direttore 5c Alvarez 6b+ Aquilante  6b Generale 6c Firmink 6b Il Fachiro 6b+ Patti sassi 5b SECTOR IL TASSO   King Lear 7a+ Cassio 6c+ Iago 6b Rosencrantz 7a+ Guildenstern 6b+ Medea 6a+ Agave 7b Elena 6b+ Gonnerilla 7a Regana 6c Cordelia 6c SECTOR CICLOPI   Albatros 7a Little crack 5c Idich 6b Franz und Andrea 7a Das glassperlenspiegel 6c Patience dans l'azur 6c+ Cyclops 7a Odyssey 7b+ Nausicaa 7b Prometeus 7a+/7a Stenghel manica 5+ La tana dei ciclopi 7a+ Lotus 7b+/8a Heracles 7c/7c+ Mac Becht 7c Marino il malandrino 4b Ugo paciugo 4b Pio albergo trivulzio 6c C'è qualcosa 6a

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Rockclmbing Guide Italy

MASSONE (POLICROMURO) CLIMBING AREA | TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE REGION Massone is still one of the most popular climbing sites in Italy.  If you are in the Arco area you will want to head up to this multi-colored wall, (the other name for the Massone area is Policromuro, which translates to multi-colored wall).  A solid grey and red striped limestone wall with over 130+ routes ranging from 5a to 8c.  This is a great mid-season area or winter site, otherwise the rock tends to get slippery on hotter days due to the polished rock.  In the summer it is best to climb in the late afternoon, and in winter it is best to climb early morning. ACCESS From Arco by car 2.8 km or 3.5 km (Sector Pueblo).From the bridge over the river Sarca follow the SS45 in the direction of Trento - Madonna di Campiglio. After 600 metres turn right for Massone/Falesia Policromuro and follow indications for Falesia Policromuro. Once in the village enter Via degli Olivi (a narrow road) leading to the olive groves. Continue following the signs to Policromuro until parking where the terrain levels out (10 parking places). This is ideal for the lower sectors, for the other sectors continue another 200 metres to a smaller parking area at the base of sectors A and B which has space for a further 8 cars. For the sector Pueblo continue along the road and after the third turning on the left there is a small lay-by. MASSONE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE ROCK CLIMBING AREA Arco Climbing Area NEAREST TOWN Massone APPROACH TIME 2 minutes EXPOSURE East BEST TIME OF YEAR Winter EQUIPMENT 15 quick-draws LENGTH OF ROPE 60 or 70 meter ROCK Limestone STYLE Technical, finger strength NUMBER OF ROUTES 135+ (5b - 8c) RECOMMENDED ROUTES Kabul (Big Jim) 6b Sovieto supremo 7b+ Greta 7a Cannonau 7a Action direct 6c+ Halloween 7a ROUTES SECTOR A               Piccola luna 4a Formica Lodovica     5a Giacca gialla 5b Banane fisch 5a Lara Croft 5c Gelateria Tarifa 6b Easy rider 6c Alce volante 6a Boiacca 5c Giuditta 6a Pesce d'aprile 6b Skoda 6b Gocce d'ansia 6b/c     Pegasus 6a+ Zac 5c Tac 5c SECTOR B   Tivoli 6a+ Fra fra 6b Fur eine hand 6a+ Dottor Plantier 6a+ Zlu' 6a Nino 6a Tangram 6a+ La bamba 7a+ The mirror 6c Spectum 6b+ Red point 7a+ Mirta del pineto 7a+ Marsabit 7c Stressami 7c Desiree 7b Loacher 7b+ Not normal 7a+ Vite minori 6c Let me life 7b Il ladro di saponette     8a C'è qualcuno che non sa   7b/c Deasy 6c+ La variante 7a  Tis sa arc  6c  Cannonau  7a  Crisi  7a  Via le man dal cul  7a  Marlene  7b  Greta  7a  Varna  ?  Sulla pancia di Nike  7c+  Mantide atea  7a  Variante diretta  7b+  I buoni cattivi  7c  Sangit  7b  Panico sopra l'orlo  7c  Profumo di invisibile  8a  Soviet supremo  7b  Bevery hills  7b+  Kabul  6b/c  I like Gorba  6c  Killer event  7b+  Action direct  6c+  Incantesimo  8a  Ricky bike  8a  SECTOR C   Musetto e Big Gim 6b+ Super Golia  6c+  Heliotrop  7b  Berny  7c+  Ictus  6c+  Destinazione arena  7c+  Without name  5a  Sabato turistico  6c  Prime espressioni  6a  Tulllio e l'amore  6a/b  Hurgada  6b  Over booking  6a  Raper  5b  Settima luna  6c+  Ektoplasma  6b  Odio la polvere  6b  L'unicorno  6a  Stattento  6a  Imperite's  5b  Marina's  5a  SECTOR OSTRICA BLU   Rettoscopie 6b+  Il culto dell'ostrica blu  6b  Fata morgana  7a+  Il ritorno di Aly  6b+  Ulla lo strapiombo che ti trastulla     6c  Un bacio di Karin  7a+  Halloween  7a  Ottopromille e più  6c+  Ottopromille  6c  Briciola  6b+  SECTOR ABISSI    La chiave 7b+ Utopia  6c  Zelda  7c  Red Rocks  8a  Alpen liebe  6c+  Il calabrese  7c  Open area  8a+ M.S.  7c  Beach boys  7b  Without name  8a+  Disneland  7c  Efrem de sisco  7a+/7b    Rubagotti  7c  Epilogo  7a+  Bonsai  7c  Abissi  7c  Pilotwings  7c  Cannabis   7b+ Onlylocals  7b+  Gameboy  7b  Gameboy plus  8a  Ultimo dubbio  7b  Il vizietto  7c  La cucina dell'inferno  8a  La fessura porta alla paura  7a/b  Il cattivo is Ueberall  7c  Meglio un giallo che un giallo  7c  Ramses  7c  Ludness  7a  Warner Broz  7b  Il ballatoio  6c  La cura della fessura  6c  Mangia cacca  7a  Gino e la sfiga  6b+  Lo scolaro  6b+  Aladin  7a  Adelante  7a+  Duracell  7b  Confetti  6b  SECTOR PUEBLO    Blondkopf 7b+ Troppo leicht  7b+  Troppo schwar  8b  Super attico  7c+  Haleboop  8b+  Grado dipendenti  7c  Taifun  8b+  Big spender  7b+  Randa  8a+  Fuego  8a/b  Underground  9a  Under vibes  9a  X-large  8c  Super maratona  8b+  Maratona  8b  Athena  8b+/c  Reini's Vibes  8c/+  La pietra murata  8b+  Il muratore  8a+  Shaved beaver  7c  Flytrap  7a+  Twingo  7b+  Kathamartina  7b  Mike jordan  8b 

Read more: Massone (Policromuro) Climbing Area, Trento Province

Rockclimbing Guide Italy

ARCO CLIMBING AREA | TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE REGION Arco has a mild climate and has a huge selection of climbing routes from single pitch to 300m long in a wide range of grades. Climbing is possible throughout the year, even if the south facing crags can be too hot in the summer, there is plenty of selections that are cooler. The best time to climb in Arco is spring and autumn. The Lake Garda area offers a great place for windsurfing, mountain biking and hiking. All this together, combined with the fact that Lago di Garda is positioned near a great number of big cities makes the whole area a very popular place for holidays and weekends. The area is crowded with tourists during August and during weekends. Because of its popularity Arco has a lot of Hotels, camping grounds, restaurants and bars, so there is no problem to find food and a bed to sleep in though you have to book before leaving during the summer. Arco has a long tradition of hard rock climbing,and the first international climbing competition was hosted in 1986. Every year in September the "Rock master" is held.. The are a couple of indoor bouldering room for rainy days. ARCO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE REGION Trentino-Alto Adige PROVINCE Trento NEAREST TOWN Rovereto GEOGRAPHY Sarca Valley ROCK Limestone HEIGHT 15-500 meters NUMBER OF SECTORS 47+ NUMBER OF ROUTES 1000+ EQUIPMENT 15 quick-draws LENGTH OF ROPE 60 meters GUIDEBOOK   CLIMBING SECTORS IN ARCO TRENTO Sectors AREA 1 Around Arco Massone Laghel Muro dell'Asino Red Point Wall Monte Colt Rupe di Oz Pilastro Afgano Mandrea Baone Colodri Marocche di Prabi Sport Roccia '86 San Paolo Swing Area Ceniga AREA 2 Gresta Valley Crosano Besagno Mori Monte Albano Nomesino Pannone Ronzo Chienis Monte Biaena AREA 3 Around Nago Nago Passo S. Giovanni Belvedere Marmitte dei Giganti Corno di Bò Spiaggia d. Lucertole Garda AREA 4 Sarca Vally Cima della Coste Placche Zebrate Transatlantico Pietramurata Muro di Sysypos San Siro Lago di Cavedine Piccolo Dain Lima Rock Lomaso La Gola Santa Massenza Terlago Margone La Vela Serrada   FOR A FULL UPDATED LISTING OF SECTORS AND ROUTES BUY A LOCAL GUIDEBOOK IN THE TOWN OF ARCO

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