Spiaggia delle Lucertole Climbing Area, Trento Province

Spiaggia Lucertole Rock Climbing Site Italy

Spiaggia delle Lucertole is located along the eastern shore of Lake Garda and in the Trentino-Alto Adige Region.  The climbing site is a nice grey limestone wall with technical routes on a slab wall.  Spiaggia delle Lucertole was bolted in the late 70's or early 80's by some of the historical climbers of the region.  Once a popular place to climb the area is now a bit polished and most people visiting the area, are there to climb the beginner slab walk on the opposite side. 

Spiaggia delle Lucertole would be an excellent deep water solo site if the wall was overhanging, instead you risk hitting the wall is you fall from higher up.  The base of the routes can be reached by lowering off from above. Be sure to have a good sling to attach yourself to the wall with that is long enough for you to be comfortable in the belay.

Spiaggia Lucertole Map

SPIAGGIA DELLE LUCERTOLE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Trentino Alto Adige
PROVINCE Trento Province
LOCATION Arco
GEOGRAPHY Monte Baldo
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES 20+
GRADE RANGE 6a+ to 7c
TYPE OF ROUTES technical, crimps, footwork
HEIGHT 35 meters
EQUIPMENT 15 quick draws, sling for belaying below

Special notes:  Parking is limited and not always safe.  Be sure to leave nothing in your car. 

GETTING TO SPIAGGIA DELLE LUCERTOLE

If you are climbing at Spiaggia delle Lucertole it is most likely because you are visiting the Arco Climbing Area.  So coming north from Torbole you will drive south along Lake Garda.  The climbing area is about 10 km from Torbole.  If you are driving from somewhere other than Arco I would suggest you exit at the Rovereto Sud autostrade exit and following the signs to Riva del Grade until you arrive to Torbole.  Driving up the lake from the south is a nice drive but if you are there during a weekend or holiday season there is too much traffic.

You can reach the area by bus from the Rovereto Train station. 

ROUTES

Daffy-daffy         6a+   
Ventofobia 6a+
Without name 6c
Funky ma chic       7b
Bepi nero 7a
Piccola dose 7a+
Honky tonky 6b+
Cicala clack 7b+
Peyote al rabarbaro    7c
Pat und patachon 6b+
Albatros 6b/7c 
Luisa violenta 6b+/5b/7a 
La signora degli appigli    7c
Non seguitemi mi sono perso   7b
Tom tom club 6b/7b
Sentierissimo 7a
Laurie 7a
Trota 6c
Tom e Jerry 7c

Serrada is a small crag located in the Pre-Alps, at 1250 meters elevation, making it a good location for the hotter months. The crag is a vertical sheer of Grey limestone that offers 36 routes, to date, ranging from 6a to 7b.  There is still room for future development and the quality of rock makes climbing enjoyable and changeling on small edges.  Good finger strength and technique are demanded.

ACCESS

From the A22 motorway exit Rovereto Sud head towards Serrada by car 28 km, then 5 minutes on foot.
Exit from the Autostrada Rovereto Sud and follow the indications for Rovereto. After 1.5 km turn right on the main road towards the centre of Rovereto and pass the commercial centre (Millennium Centre). At the second roundabout turn left in the direction of Trento SS 12 and take the left-hand land. Continue straight on, until the large roundabout at the train station (from the motorway's exit A22 Rovereto Sud 7 km). Turn right and follow the signs for Centro and SP2 Serrada- Folgaria. Take the SP2 Serrada-Folgaria and continue for nearly 19 km, passing through the various villages of the Comune di Terragnolo. After passing the sign "Magnifica Comunità di Folgaria", the Restaurant Cogola can be seen on the curve. Park the car on the right after 50 meters in a large parking area. From here enter via San Rocco on the extreme right, and continue for another 20 metres shooting off at the first curve on the right. Follow the track behind the Ristorante Cogola, and after 100 metres the track becomes a descending path that enters into the woods leading to the crag.

SERRADA ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Trentino Alto Adige
PROVINCE Trento Province
LOCATION Rovereto
GEOGRAPHY Monte Lessini
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES 30+
GRADE RANGE 6a+ to 7c
TYPE OF ROUTES technical, crimps, footwork
HEIGHT 35 meters
EQUIPMENT 15 quick draws, sling for belaying below

Special notes:

ROUTES

SECTOR A        
Maiyumi             7b      
Tsunami 6a+
Manu 4b
Mr. Boombastic 4a
Eclisse 99 6b
La morte nera 6c+
Starway to Heaven       6c
Danton 5a
Hawk 6a
Spitfollia 6a+
Phoenomena 6a
Ghost 6a
Microtest 6c
Melancholy 4b
SECTOR B  
Spider 6b
Megawatt 6b/c
Die hard 6b
Crow 6b
Mururoa 6a
Jessica 6a+
No love 6c
Balla coi lupi 6c
Condor 6b+
Esorciccio 6a+
Maiemi 6b+
Mani di velluto 6b+
The wall 7a
Kaos 6b
Zanzibar 6a
Caduta massi 6b
Giada 6b
SECTOR C  
Cuzco 6a+
Indios 3c
Kursk 6b
Totem 6a
Tsaatan 5b
Yeti 5c
Ibis 6a
Lady Diana 6a+
Ghibli 6a+
Mephisto 6b
Lucifero 6c
Congedo express 6c
Traverso perverso 6b
Due dita prime falangi      6c
Jovannona 6b
Angel of death 6c+
Robespierre 6c
Pirata 6c
Chipko 5a
SECTOR D  
Ayers rock 6a
Hidalgo 6a
Inca 5c
Viper 5a
Nandu 5a
Za' Bj 4a
Bali 5c/6a    
Machu Picchu 6b
Licheni 6b
Tarkine 6b+
Ugly 6b+
Miwok 6a
Maya 6b+
Euro 6a
Canyon 4c
SECTOR E  
Non mollare mai 6c+
Braveheart 6b+
Zia Lilli 6a
Variante 4a
Kombai 5a
Spirit 6b+
Time flies 6b
Rocky grey 6b+
El paradiso 6b
Super Silvia 6b+
Yunnan 6c
My wife is an angel 6b+
Malik 6a
Sun 6a

Rock Climbing Italy, Naga

The Rock Climbing site known as Nago is located just west of the small town of Nago.  The town sits overlooking the Lake of Garda (Italy's largest lake) and is perhaps the second most visited climbing site in the area.  The climbing site offers over 120 routes at average grade of 6b, so this attracts lots of climbers.  There are plenty of lower grades to work on and improve your skill levels and the location is very scenic.

NAGO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

Nearest City Nago, Trento
Type of Site Sport Climbing Site
Type of Rock Limestone, edges
Best time of Year Spring and Fall, but you can also climb in the summer late afternoon
Grades 4 - 8a
Map or Guidebook Within Arco there is a complete guide book for the area
Reachable by Public Transportation Public bus will get you to Nago and then it is a 20 minute walk up to the site.
Visitor Rating 2-3 days
Rock Climbing Italy, Nago Map

 

ACCESS

From Arco by car 7,5 km (or 9,5 km), then 5-10 minutes on foot.
From the bridge over the river Sarca follow the SS240 for Rovereto. Reaching the roundabout at Nago continue straight ahead, passing the Hotel Rubino after the traffic lights, turn right following the indications for Strada Monte Baldo. Continue for 1 km passing through the vineyards to reach the junction signposted Capitello S. Giuseppe. 
For the lower sectors: enter the track on the right and continue for 400 metres until reaching a convenient parking spot next the Ranch house. Leave the car and continue along the Sentiero della Pace for 300 meters. At the first fork turn left (signposted Malga Zures) and continue ahead until arriving at a wall below the first lower sector and Mangusta sector. From here it is easy to reach sectors la Mandria and Centrale (and the other sectors).
For the higher sectors (Spleen, Il Tasso and I Ciclopi): once reached the junction marked by the Capitello S. Giuseppe continue ahead along the tarmac road, climbing towards Monte Baldo and passing through olives and pines with fine views across Lago di Garda. After 2 km park on the left by the side of the road directly in front of the top sectors. Leave your car and head towards the bend and go into the woods. Follow the evident path always straight and in 5 minutes reach Sector I Ciclopi and successively to the other sectors Il Tasso, Spleen and Central.

ROUTES

SECTOR MANGUSTA               
Without name ?
Flash 7c
Without name ?
Without name ?
Without name 7c
Der sonne entgegen 7c/+
Mangusta 8c
Black tooth grin 8a+/b   
California 91 7a+/b
Warbeast  8c+
Ghost rider 8c
Great southern trendkill      8b+
No hope goat farm 8c+
Without name ?
Moustache corner 8a
Without name 8a
Without name 8a/b
Via Nicola 7c+
Ssoul 8b/+
Without name ?
Without name ?
Without name 7a+
Without name ?
SECTOR MASSI  
Un bar per Rita 5c
Without name ?
Buon anno 5b
Fufi 6b
Without name ?
Bucking bronco 8c+
Without name ?
LOWER SECTOR  
Without name 6b+
Without name 6a/b
Without name ?
Without name 5c
Without name 6b
Without name 6a
Without name 6a/b
Vogue 6a
Nuvola rossa 6a
Giochi d'ombra 5c
Take it easy 5c
Without name 5b
Without name 4c
Without name 4c
Without name 5b
Without name 4b
Il calabrone  5c
Ramba 6a+
Without name 5a
Phanton 6b+
Chiedi a Beppo 6b
Panorama 6b+
Kira 7a+
Il panettiere 6c+
Dee e socia 7b+
Mario lo sa 7b
Ruggiero lo perfido 6a+
Fuori orario 6c
SECTOR LA MANDRIA         
Bali 6a
Visigoti 6a
Unni 4c
Zuppa zupa 2c/6a
Parampopoli 2c/6a+
Alcor 5b
Winkibongo 5a
Asdù 5b
Enzo Molinari 6a
Il capriccio 7c
Supermario 7c
Gobazio 6a/b
La mandria 6a
Mario Polenta  6a
Jeffo 6a+
Lillilla 6a+
CENTRAL SECTOR  
La placca  5b/6b
Cato zulù 6b+
Lo sconosciuto 6b+
Peach pitt 6c
Torpedo 7a+
Mammalucco 7a
Genesi 7a
Nibbio 6b+
Uccelli di rovo 7b+
Astuzio 6b+
Esuli lontani 7a
La nonna va in Australia 6c+
Tasmania 7a
Crisalide 6c
Coda di porco 6b
Facile 5a
Asdo da melch 7c
Grisù 7a+
Lucacapiotti 7b+
Dago 7b+
Eh mersh 7b
Culo dritto 7b
Huligani dangeraux 7a+
Passeggeri del vento 7b+
Lunatica 7b
Boulevard 7c
Per sempre Mary 7b+
I soliti ignoti 7a
Sbargek 6b+
Lupo Alberto 6c+/7a+  
Titanic 7a
Iceberg 7a+
Gandalf 6c+
Esodo 6b
Cohelet 6b+
Swami il bullo 5b
Nillo il bello 5b
SECTOR SPLEEN  
Troppo buoni con le donne         5c
Nevermore 6c+
Spleen 6a+
Eqinox 6a+
Gerico 6a
Night'fly 5c
Super tramp 5c
Good bye stranger 6a
Cif 5c
Ragioner Filini 5b
Mega direttore 5c
Alvarez 6b+
Aquilante  6b
Generale 6c
Firmink 6b
Il Fachiro 6b+
Patti sassi 5b
SECTOR IL TASSO  
King Lear 7a+
Cassio 6c+
Iago 6b
Rosencrantz 7a+
Guildenstern 6b+
Medea 6a+
Agave 7b
Elena 6b+
Gonnerilla 7a
Regana 6c
Cordelia 6c
SECTOR CICLOPI  
Albatros 7a
Little crack 5c
Idich 6b
Franz und Andrea 7a
Das glassperlenspiegel 6c
Patience dans l'azur 6c+
Cyclops 7a
Odyssey 7b+
Nausicaa 7b
Prometeus 7a+/7a
Stenghel manica 5+
La tana dei ciclopi 7a+
Lotus 7b+/8a
Heracles 7c/7c+
Mac Becht 7c
Marino il malandrino 4b
Ugo paciugo 4b
Pio albergo trivulzio 6c
C'è qualcosa 6a

Rock Climbing Arco Trento, Massone

Massone is still one of the most popular climbing sites in Italy.  If you are in the Arco area you will want to head up to this multi-colored wall, (the other name for the Massone area is Policromuro, which translates to multi-colored wall).  A solid grey and red striped limestone wall with over 130+ routes ranging from 5a to 8c.  This is a great mid-season area or winter site, otherwise the rock tends to get slippery on hotter days due to the polished rock.  In the summer it is best to climb in the late afternoon, and in winter it is best to climb early morning.

ACCESS

From Arco by car 2.8 km or 3.5 km (Sector Pueblo).
From the bridge over the river Sarca follow the SS45 in the direction of Trento - Madonna di Campiglio. After 600 metres turn right for Massone/Falesia Policromuro and follow indications for Falesia Policromuro. Once in the village enter Via degli Olivi (a narrow road) leading to the olive groves. Continue following the signs to Policromuro until parking where the terrain levels out (10 parking places). This is ideal for the lower sectors, for the other sectors continue another 200 metres to a smaller parking area at the base of sectors A and B which has space for a further 8 cars. For the sector Pueblo continue along the road and after the third turning on the left there is a small lay-by.

Massone, Arco Rock Climbing Area

MASSONE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

ROCK CLIMBING AREA Arco Climbing Area
NEAREST TOWN Massone
APPROACH TIME 2 minutes
EXPOSURE East
BEST TIME OF YEAR Winter
EQUIPMENT 15 quick-draws
LENGTH OF ROPE 60 or 70 meter
ROCK Limestone
STYLE Technical, finger strength
NUMBER OF ROUTES 135+ (5b - 8c)

RECOMMENDED ROUTES

  • Kabul (Big Jim) 6b
  • Sovieto supremo 7b+
  • Greta 7a
  • Cannonau 7a
  • Action direct 6c+
  • Halloween 7a

Massone Climbing Area, Arco

ROUTES

SECTOR A              
Piccola luna 4a
Formica Lodovica     5a
Giacca gialla 5b
Banane fisch 5a
Lara Croft 5c
Gelateria Tarifa 6b
Easy rider 6c
Alce volante 6a
Boiacca 5c
Giuditta 6a
Pesce d'aprile 6b
Skoda 6b
Gocce d'ansia 6b/c    
Pegasus 6a+
Zac 5c
Tac 5c
SECTOR B  
Tivoli 6a+
Fra fra 6b
Fur eine hand 6a+
Dottor Plantier 6a+
Zlu' 6a
Nino 6a
Tangram 6a+
La bamba 7a+
The mirror 6c
Spectum 6b+
Red point 7a+
Mirta del pineto 7a+
Marsabit 7c
Stressami 7c
Desiree 7b
Loacher 7b+
Not normal 7a+
Vite minori 6c
Let me life 7b
Il ladro di saponette     8a
C'è qualcuno che non sa   7b/c
Deasy 6c+
La variante 7a 
Tis sa arc  6c 
Cannonau  7a 
Crisi  7a 
Via le man dal cul  7a 
Marlene  7b 
Greta  7a 
Varna 
Sulla pancia di Nike  7c+ 
Mantide atea  7a 
Variante diretta  7b+ 
I buoni cattivi  7c 
Sangit  7b 
Panico sopra l'orlo  7c 
Profumo di invisibile  8a 
Soviet supremo  7b 
Bevery hills  7b+ 
Kabul  6b/c 
I like Gorba  6c 
Killer event  7b+ 
Action direct  6c+ 
Incantesimo  8a 
Ricky bike  8a 
SECTOR C  
Musetto e Big Gim 6b+
Super Golia  6c+ 
Heliotrop  7b 
Berny  7c+ 
Ictus  6c+ 
Destinazione arena  7c+ 
Without name  5a 
Sabato turistico  6c 
Prime espressioni  6a 
Tulllio e l'amore  6a/b 
Hurgada  6b 
Over booking  6a 
Raper  5b 
Settima luna  6c+ 
Ektoplasma  6b 
Odio la polvere  6b 
L'unicorno  6a 
Stattento  6a 
Imperite's  5b 
Marina's  5a 
SECTOR OSTRICA BLU  
Rettoscopie 6b+ 
Il culto dell'ostrica blu  6b 
Fata morgana  7a+ 
Il ritorno di Aly  6b+ 
Ulla lo strapiombo che ti trastulla     6c 
Un bacio di Karin  7a+ 
Halloween  7a 
Ottopromille e più  6c+ 
Ottopromille  6c 
Briciola  6b+ 
SECTOR ABISSI   
La chiave 7b+
Utopia  6c 
Zelda  7c 
Red Rocks  8a 
Alpen liebe  6c+ 
Il calabrese  7c 
Open area  8a+
M.S.  7c 
Beach boys  7b 
Without name  8a+ 
Disneland  7c 
Efrem de sisco  7a+/7b   
Rubagotti  7c 
Epilogo  7a+ 
Bonsai  7c 
Abissi  7c 
Pilotwings  7c 
Cannabis   7b+
Onlylocals  7b+ 
Gameboy  7b 
Gameboy plus  8a 
Ultimo dubbio  7b 
Il vizietto  7c 
La cucina dell'inferno  8a 
La fessura porta alla paura  7a/b 
Il cattivo is Ueberall  7c 
Meglio un giallo che un giallo  7c 
Ramses  7c 
Ludness  7a 
Warner Broz  7b 
Il ballatoio  6c 
La cura della fessura  6c 
Mangia cacca  7a 
Gino e la sfiga  6b+ 
Lo scolaro  6b+ 
Aladin  7a 
Adelante  7a+ 
Duracell  7b 
Confetti  6b 
SECTOR PUEBLO   
Blondkopf 7b+
Troppo leicht  7b+ 
Troppo schwar  8b 
Super attico  7c+ 
Haleboop  8b+ 
Grado dipendenti  7c 
Taifun  8b+ 
Big spender  7b+ 
Randa  8a+ 
Fuego  8a/b 
Underground  9a 
Under vibes  9a 
X-large  8c 
Super maratona  8b+ 
Maratona  8b 
Athena  8b+/c 
Reini's Vibes  8c/+ 
La pietra murata  8b+ 
Il muratore  8a+ 
Shaved beaver  7c 
Flytrap  7a+ 
Twingo  7b+ 
Kathamartina  7b 
Mike jordan  8b 

Rock Climbing Italy, Arco

Arco has a mild climate and has a huge selection of climbing routes from single pitch to 300m long in a wide range of grades. Climbing is possible throughout the year, even if the south facing crags can be too hot in the summer, there is plenty of selections that are cooler. The best time to climb in Arco is spring and autumn.

The Lake Garda area offers a great place for windsurfing, mountain biking and hiking. All this together, combined with the fact that Lago di Garda is positioned near a great number of big cities makes the whole area a very popular place for holidays and weekends. The area is crowded with tourists during August and during weekends. Because of its popularity Arco has a lot of Hotels, camping grounds, restaurants and bars, so there is no problem to find food and a bed to sleep in though you have to book before leaving during the summer.

Arco has a long tradition of hard rock climbing,and the first international climbing competition was hosted in 1986. Every year in September the "Rock master" is held.. The are a couple of indoor bouldering room for rainy days.

ARCO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Trentino-Alto Adige
PROVINCE Trento
NEAREST TOWN
Rovereto
GEOGRAPHY
Sarca Valley
ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 15-500 meters
NUMBER OF SECTORS 47+
NUMBER OF ROUTES 1000+
EQUIPMENT 15 quick-draws
LENGTH OF ROPE 60 meters
GUIDEBOOK  

CLIMBING SECTORS IN ARCO TRENTO

Rock Climbing Italy, Arco Zones

Sectors

AREA 1 Around Arco

  1. Massone
  2. Laghel
  3. Muro dell'Asino
  4. Red Point Wall
  5. Monte Colt
  6. Rupe di Oz
  7. Pilastro Afgano
  8. Mandrea
  9. Baone
  10. Colodri
  11. Marocche di Prabi
  12. Sport Roccia '86
  13. San Paolo
  14. Swing Area
  15. Ceniga

AREA 2 Gresta Valley

  1. Crosano
  2. Besagno
  3. Mori
  4. Monte Albano
  5. Nomesino
  6. Pannone
  7. Ronzo Chienis
  8. Monte Biaena

AREA 3 Around Nago

  1. Nago
  2. Passo S. Giovanni
  3. Belvedere
  4. Marmitte dei Giganti
  5. Corno di Bò
  6. Spiaggia d. Lucertole
  7. Garda

AREA 4 Sarca Vally

  1. Cima della Coste
  2. Placche Zebrate
  3. Transatlantico
  4. Pietramurata
  5. Muro di Sysypos
  6. San Siro
  7. Lago di Cavedine
  8. Piccolo Dain
  9. Lima Rock
  10. Lomaso
  11. La Gola
  12. Santa Massenza
  13. Terlago
  14. Margone
  15. La Vela
  16. Serrada

 
FOR A FULL UPDATED LISTING OF SECTORS AND ROUTES BUY A LOCAL GUIDEBOOK IN THE TOWN OF ARCO

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