Lumignano Climbing Area Guide Veneto Region

CLASSICA SECTOR | LUMIGNANO ROCK CLIMBING AREA The Classica Sector at Lumignano, was the first sector to be bolted in the early 1970's and during the 1980's hosted some of Europes hardest routes.  Even today the route quality is exceptional even if climbing skill has increased.  The grades tend to be very stiff and combined with the style of climbing it is very difficult to on-sight.  The grey and red streaked limestone is part of an undersea reef so you find lots of small pockets.  Many routes are very techincal requiring good foot work and strong finger strength.  CLASSICA AREA CLIMBING GUIDE Best time to climb is during cooler months and this is winter destination.  However, you can climb early morning until 1000 a.m. or after about 1700 p.m. during the warmer months.  ROUTES ARE LISTED STARTING ON FAR LEFT TO THE RIGHT (note that some routes have upper sections) most routes are marked. 40 gocce di Valium 7a/ 7c+ Via Casarotto A2/IV+ Placca Campi 6a Melli 5c Totem 6a/b Fessure Rossi III+, V Via Conforto V, V+ Variation V U2 6a Joshua Tree 6b Spigolo Casarotto 6a, III+ Eroiken varianten VI  Varianten diretten 6a New Route 7a+ Mariacher 6c Libellulalilla 6a Pinguino 6a+ Simeoni 6a Bucomania 6b Via Bisson 6b Via Renè 6b Kit e Katzi 6b+ Goccia d’acqua 6b Goccia d’arsenico 7a Mister X 7c Lee Oswald 6a Tentativo Mariacher ?? Fata Morgana 7b+ Ape IV+ Ali Agca 6a Cina 6a+ Catarro 6c Maruscao IV Palkiewich 6a Pancia Classica 5a O Giglio Mio 6a Vecchia Volpe 6a Mickey Mouse 6a+ Pancia Casarotto 6b+ Margherita 7a+ Odore dei Sogni 7a+ Sogni d’Oro 7b+ Oro Puro 7b/c Arco d’Oro 7c Aguaplano 8b Atomic Café 8a+ Master Blaster 7b Vietato l’ingresso 7b Burro e Piombo 6c/7a Rotpunkt di Sera 7a Passo Falso 7c+ Scarlet Letter 8a? El Somaro 8a Mare Allucinante 8a/b Falangioni 8b Boomerang 8a Orient Express 7b Durlindana 6c Anny 6c Pistacchio 6b+ Spranghe 5b Fly down 7b Diedro della Shrega 5a Haidi 5c Pedro 5a Spigolo della Sbraga 5b Melquiades 6b+ Macondo 6b+ Marcedonia 6a Etique Etoc 6b Strapiombo della Sbrega 6a Pui dolore per favore 6b+ Befana 6c+ Eddy 5a Delrio Alimentare 6a+ Robbins 6b Pink Panter 6b Grillo Parlante 7a Esperimento ? Scacciapuffi 5a Bala degli Arcobaleni 6a Lo Sgombro 6b Orrenda 6a Excalibur 6a Pippo Pamir 7a Scharura del Sahara 6c+ Ginevra 7a+ Fly Dreams 7b Trichomonas 6a Aswan 6c+ Beverly Hills 6b+ Marilyn 6b Fessura 17 6a+ Stefanel 6a Coccodrillo Crak 5c Lampo d’Argento 6c Ma Chere 7c Papillon 7b Jubba de Hut 7b+ Technicolor 7a Miso Rock 8a Soia Climb 8 Mago della Propoli 7a I Want Your Sex 7a Fessura Mariacher 6c Deidro Pilier IV Giosuè 6b+ Physical 6b Hot Dog 6a Emmenthal 6c (A+B)/2 6c+

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Lumignano Climbing Guide Veneto Region

EREMO SECTOR LUMIGNANO CLIMBING AREA   The Eremo sector is one of the most popular in Lumignano during the warmer months. Located along the path leading up to the Eremo of S.Cassiano and can be reached in 10 minutes easy walking. The wall has plenty of routes of almost all difficulty levels. The wall was developed in a time when modified holds were not forbidden but many of the routes can be done skipping the drilled pockets but the difficulty level will increase a full number grade in most cases.   Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book. NUTS AND BOLTS BEST TIME OF YEAR Spring to Fall ROCK Limestone NUMBER OF ROUTES 59 RANGE OF GRADES from 5c to 8a+ HEIGHT 30m

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Rock Climbing Guide To Vicenza Province

ANFITEATRO SECTOR | LUMIGNANO ROCK CLIMBING AREA The Anfiteatro sector is a good place for climbers between 5 and 7c, but you must be really careful because the routes are very high (+30m) so it's better to use at least a 60m rope. Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book. ANFITEATRO CLIMBING GUIDE REGION Veneto PROVINCE Vicenza GEOGRAPHY Lumignano, Colli Berici BEST TIME OF YEAR from October to March ROCK limestone NUMBER OF ROUTES 46 RANGE OF GRADES from 5a to 7c+ HEIGHT +30m routes From left to right Leccata e fuga 6a+ Nato il 1° Luglio 6b Girolimoni 6b Balla cio mussi 6c+ Mavandabeluch 6b+ Spaccamelo 6a+ Ambulatorio Dr. Rasia 6a Hombre de flama 6b+ Eurotica 7a Randevù 7a Bizzarre 6c+ Play boy 6c Play girl 6c W Zapta 6c Pancia Simonato 6a 1000 rimorsi nessun rimpianto 6b+ Trainspetting 6b One of these days... 6c Ultimo tango a Lumignano 6c Ascensore per l'interno 6b+ Via col mento 6a+ Buchi neri 6c Giardino di pietra 6b+ Trapani roventi 6a+ Agli uomini piacciono le brombe 6b Male allucinante 6a+ Fuga dalla Padania 6b Buon 45° compleanno 6a+ La carica dei 740 6a 30 metri per morire 6c- Quella sporca manettina 7b+ Mostarda 7c Buchi d'artificio 7c+ Assassinio sul brojon 6c+ Via Rezzonico 28 6c+ Sette nani nel Tibet 6c Il fronte del porco 6b+ Stop the pigeon 6a+ I sette salumai 6b+ Caduta maschi 6c Karma letale 6b+ Easy climber 6b S.O.B. 6b Il topico del Capricorno 6a+ Zabriskie joint 5c Tempeste ormonale 5a

NEED HELP PLANNING YOUR ITALY VACATION Italy is one of the most diverse places in the world to visit but there is more to the country then Venice, Florence, Roma, Cinque Terre and a couple of other top attractions.  If you plan you days well and understand how to move around within the country you can a great cost effective vacation full of activity, history, culture, and great food and wine.  Contact us to get the insights to travel in Italy.  We offer: Travel Consultant- book time online for a web chat to answer your questions about traveling in Italy. Travel Planning - need help outlining and planning your adventure in Italy. Scheduled Tours - each month we lead a scheduled tour for those looking to join a small group to explore. Travel support:  Bike Touring - routes, bike rental, bag transfers.  Walking/Hiking Tours - routes, bag transfers. Booking assistance and suggested contacts. Italiaoutdoors Travel Planning and Guide Services

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Rock Climbing Guide To The Veneto Region

BROJON SECTOR | LUMIGNANO ROCK CLIMBING AREA The Brojon sector is "the other hand of Lumignano". The wall is divided in three parts, all requiring a different ability: resistance, technique and power. Please remember to respect the area and buy a local guide book. NUTS AND BOLTS REGION Veneto Region PROVINCE Vicenza GEOGRAPHY Colli Berici  BEST TIME OF YEAR all year ROCK limestone NUMBER OF ROUTES 35 RANGE OF GRADES from 5c to 7a+ HEIGHT 25m SUGGESTED ROUTES Il Muro di Jericho 6c+ La Facciata di Sisifo 6c+ Viaggio nell'Insolito 7a Trance da Vertigine 7a+ Colonna Infame 7b 

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Rock Climbing Guide Vicenza Province

SECTOR AMERCIANO | LUMIGNANO ROCK CLIMBING AREA Sector Americano at the Lumignano Climbing area, is a section of cliff I saw in 2000 with a great line that looked 100% natural, so I started to bolt the cliff. The first route was Super Freak and when I bolted it was a good solid 8a+ on all natural holds, however after a few other climbers tried the route a key hold broke off. Now I am not 100% sure of the grade but still it is 8a or above. Someone made a one-finger pocket more positive, but otherwise the route has remained the same. Routes to climb at the Americano sector are Rockstar, Fear, and a new project that I have bolted that will go above 8b for sure. I invite anyone who wishes to try the routes to take time to visit this sector. WHAT IS THE CLIMBING LIKE AT THE AMERICANO SECTOR All of the primary routes and overhanging and the wall offers good pockets and water grooves,  you need explosive power, but good footwork to climb most of the routes.  There are no real warmups, the easy routes are only a few meters tall and routes I bolted to teach my kids climbing. There is great morning sun in the winter time, and the bowl created from the cliff keeps it fairly warm since you blocked from the wind.  During the summer you are in the shade after 1500 hours, and you can climb until late evening.  The approach is not easy for little kids, but the area under the cliff is idea and safe.  HOW TO GET TO THE AMERICANO SECTOR From the parking area walk up the trail to Eremo, once reaching the base of the Eremo Sector follow the wall to your left, just after there is a band of rock that is used as a bouldering area, just for this band of rock you will see a the trail leading up to the Americano Sector.  Be careful sometimes people are rude and use the bathroom along the trails.   SECTOR NOTES EXPOSURE Southeast NUMBER OF ROUTES  17 ROPE LENGTH  60 meter APPROACH WALK 15 minutes     SUGGESTED ROUTES Rock Star Super Freak Youth Waits for No One Fear ROUTES FROM RIGHT TO LEFTOver and under     6bShort but sweet     7a+Rock Star     7bYouth waits for no one 7c+Project     ??B-Slap     7bSuper Freak  8a+Fear     8bAndrea's way  7b+Legend  7a+Project ??Cross-eyes 6c+Split tail 6bSuper Sexy Climbing Chick 6bFat Cat     5Rock groupie 5Other world 6a

NEED HELP PLANNING YOUR ITALY VACATION Italy is one of the most diverse places in the world to visit but there is more to the country then Venice, Florence, Roma, Cinque Terre and a couple of other top attractions.  If you plan you days well and understand how to move around within the country you can a great cost effective vacation full of activity, history, culture, and great food and wine.  Contact us to get the insights to travel in Italy.  We offer: Travel Consultant- book time online for a web chat to answer your questions about traveling in Italy. Travel Planning - need help outlining and planning your adventure in Italy. Scheduled Tours - each month we lead a scheduled tour for those looking to join a small group to explore. Travel support:  Bike Touring - routes, bike rental, bag transfers.  Walking/Hiking Tours - routes, bag transfers. Booking assistance and suggested contacts. Italiaoutdoors Travel Planning and Guide Services

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