Bouldering Guide Italy
LUMIGNANO BOULDERING AREA | GREY CLIFF Located in the Berici Hills above the village of Lumignano is the classic climbing area of LUMIGNANO. Although known for its classic climbing there area a few good areas to boulder. One the first area to ever be cleaned is a small cliff just to the left of the Eremo sector and below the Americano sector. The area is a band of compact gray limestone with a nice overhang that offers a few good routes to enjoy. Most of the lines are easy to follow so the quality to the routes are good, this is not an area you need to follow tick makes to climb. WHAT IS THE BOULDERING LIKE In the early 90's this this area was cleaned out to make a small training area, and there were several small pocket drilled to create a traverse (this was before indoor gyms and ethics changed climbing). However, there are plenty of good problems and many of the drilled holes have been filled. On all the routes you top out on a shelf with the highest point about 4 meters off the ground. You can use a roped guide line, that has been placed for safety, as you exit the shelf to the left. There are two routes that I have bolted for the comfort of those who do not want to do a higher problem without protection and due. The landing zone is very good but for some of the higher climbs in the center section of the cliff, it is best to have a good spotter and several crash pads. The only real issue is that at times people use this area as a latrine. GETTING TO THE BOULDERING AREA There is a designated parking area behind the school, if it is a weekday you can sometimes park in the community lot in front of the Church. From there you take the the marked trail to the right of the Church toward Eremo di S. Cassiano. After about 200 meters you will see an obvious trail leading up to a cliff area that is the Eremo Sector. Standing in front of the Eremo Sector just walk to your left about 75 meters and you will be at the Grey Cliff area. BOULDERING PROBLEMS AT THE GREY CLIFF Problems listed right to left Grade 1 Bebe V4 2 Kama..ha standing V7 3 Kama...ha sitting V9 4 no name V9 5 Odin V5 6 OutterSpace V5 7 Easy V2 8 Scar V4 9 Face V3 TRAVEL NOTES AND TIPS There is no camping allowed at Lumignano but there is a parking area on the western end of the village that was made for climbers. You can car camp or park overnight in a small camper without worry. There is a water fountain in the parking lot as well as bathrooms. The Fantasy Bar is a simple but it has been one of the local climber hangouts for years. You can get a cafe or snack there and they usually have some basic items like guide books and a few other things. Al Lumi is a newer bar and a more trendy hangout. You can reach Lumignano by using Bus 8 from the Vicenza Train station. On off days or if you get rained out visit Vicenza and you are only 40 minutes by Train to Venice (Venezia) and 50 minutes to Verona
Read more: Grey Cliff Lumignano | Berici Hills Bouldering Area