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The word Collio means hill and it is always used in reference to the vines situated on the rises next to the border between Italy and Slovenia. The area covers 1600 hectares of vineyards across the north side of Gorizia and its province: Capriva Del Friuli, Cormòns, Dolegna del Collio, Farra d’Isonzo, Mossa, San Lorenzo Isontino and San Floriano del Collio.
The history and the vine-growing of this region boast very old origins. The first vineyards were already established in the Roman Age and grew very fast. In 3 AD, Emperor Massimino built a wooden bridge on the Isonzo river, made of barrels and vats coming from the Collio. This bridge allowed his troops to enter the besieged Aquileia.
Throughout the Middle Ages up to the beginning of the 1500s the vineyards of this area were known and appreciated all over Europe: by the High Serene Venetian Republic, Emperor Charles V, the Russian Czar. In the 1800s, carts carrying huge barrels of wine from the Collio were regularly sent to Vienna, the capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
The wine under the trademark D.O.C., which stands for Denominazione di origine Controllata (Controlled Denomination of Origin), fully reflects the characteristics of this remarkable territory set between the Adriatic Sea and the Julian Alps. As a matter of fact, the favourable position of the hilly area set between the sea and the mountains allows a unique microclimate, in terms of ventilation and temperature range, which perfectly combines with the “ponca” the particular soil of the Collio made of argillaceous limestone of Eocenic origins, which is ideal for vine-growing. This particular soil offers a good combination of strength, personality and elegance, which distinguishes this wine from the others.
The Collio represents the best production of white wine in the world. Single species of vine (monovitigno) like Sauvignon, Pinot grigio, Tocai nicely counterbalance the unrivalled cru (vintage wine) grown in this region.
Equally important are the native vineyards which combine history, tradition and a desire of identifying the wine with its territory. The Ribolla Gialla, for example, is one of the few varieties of vine to bear two fundamental characteristics to fulfil this desire: a century-old tradition born right here in the Collio and a unique quality able to grant a top position in the world-wide production of white wine.
Over the last years, wine producers have accepted the challenge, creating “Collio Bianco” which represents the answer to an almost spontaneous question: What other region better than the Collio has the duty to promote the greatest white wines? The “Collio Bianco” is the result of valuable efforts by local wine producers to combine the best grapes of the Collio for a wine of supreme quality in terms of aroma, fragrance, body and duration. This cru (remarkable vintage wine) is recognized world-wide as the Vino del Collio and witnesses its area of origin. Not to be forgotten that the Collio produces other remarkable wines, though having a lesser status in value. In this regard, the comparison needs to be made directly with the superlative French red wines as the definitive region of quality. The Collio is similarly identified as the “area of the white wine” recognized world wide as a trademark of quality even without the need of reading the labels identifying these wines.
The vine-growing tradition has allowed a perfect integration between territory of origin and its different wines. For this reason, a visit to this area is the best way of tasting and understanding the Collio (the international airport is located within 20km). Country houses, farm houses and wine cellars have always sincerely welcomed the tourist as a friend.
To better understand the Collio, we suggest a tour along the wine route leading from Gorizia to Dolegna, which is the very first route of this kind ever built in Italy.
Along the route many places witness the most cruel remains of the First World War, for instance the ossuary of Oslavia which hosts the bodies of sixty thousand fallen. A pleasant landscape is offered by the hills overlooking the whole plain around the Isonzo river, i.e. San Floriano, Spessa, Còrmons, Ruttars, where the ancient nobility built their castles, towers and manors. The Collio invites its visitors to drive along country roads and paths, enjoy nature, relax and stop for a holiday in its woods and parks. All characterized by a perfect landscape of vineyards as well as by good wine and food from its wine cellars and agriturismo (farms serving local dishes).
Vine-growing and selling processes are followed with accuracy in order to guarantee the highest quality, which has been supported by an advertising campaign promoted by the Collio producers’ association. The new image of the Collio is represented by Caroline, a young black Swedish model, whose photographs, with a bottle of white wine set between her naked breasts and provocative slogans saying «the only White I love» or «the best White of the world» have been a controversial subject of discussion. This new image of the Collio has resulted from the brilliant intuition of famous photographer Olivero Toscani.
«We certainly don’t aim at selling huge quantities of wine» quotes Marco Felluga, the President of the Collio producers’ association «our scope is to increase the reputation of our wines worldwide, despite the fact that it is a niche product (and the choice of Oliviero Toscani represents a successful achievement towards our goal) thanks to the unique characteristics of our hills and to the passionate work of the Collio producers».
Beyond the rather provocative effect, the new image presents a challenge for the producers of the Collio and of the Friuli Venezia Giulia, who are quested to further improve the quality of their products in honour of the status of “best white of the world”.
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© 2012 - Italiaoutdoors di Vernon McClure