UDINE AND SURROUNDING AREA

Documented as a thousand-year-old city but stretching back two millennia according to archaeological evidence, Udine was once surrounded by thick city walls. The layout of the historic city centre as we know it today began to take shape during the early period of Venetian control in the 15th and 16th centuries. Working alongside the public authorities were the Antonini family, hailing from the Alpi Carniche, who furnished the city with a rich display of prestigious palazzi, the most outstanding of which must surely be the Palazzo Antonini, now the headquarters of the Banca d’Italia and designed by celebrated architect Andrea Palladio. We owe the radical transformation of the Duomo in the early 18th century, when the great gothic structure was embellished with Baroque elements, to yet another celebrated family, the Manin. However it would be wrong to assume that this splendid city thrives solely on art and history: “vini, vivande, vicende, vedute” [“wine, food, history, views”] is not the name of a new store but a short description of a new and inspired initiative by the Udine administrative authorities. The authorities have appealed to the entire city to work together to dress the city centre with flags and banners, filling it with kiosks and counters selling the finest products this age-old region has to offer: wines, grappas, San Daniele ham, Montasio cheese, gubane cakes, honey, bread and sweets as well as pottery, fabrics, wooden objects, wrought iron and jewellery. Entertainment is laid on for the public by folk groups, bands of musicians and comedians.

Pieve di San LorenzoMonte di Bujaaffreschi gotici nella Cappella della Vergine architrave decorata posta sopra la porta laterale.Foto Paolo Belvedere Much enjoyment is also gained from specially priced “Friuli Doc” menus laid on by local osterie, comprising the ancient yet simple cuisine of the Alpi Carniche and the region’s marine areas.

You can enjoy superb and unparalleled views over the entire Friuli region from the Colle del Castello. There is a legend that Attila enjoyed the sight of the burning city of Aquileia from this hill. Savours and colours are also a major theme in San Daniele, a small hilltop town renowned for its gastronomic delights and itself a veritable treasure chest of art, history and culture. The town is especially famous for its remarkable ham, the “Sandaniele”. The Piazza Vittorio Emanuele lies at the heart of the town, dominated by the unabashed bulk of the Duomo, with its wide staircase and unfinished belltower, begun in 1531. To the left of the piazza lies the Palazzo del Monte di Pietà. A short distance from the Duomo lies the church of Sant’Antonio Abate. The church was dedicated to the hermit saint and was consecrated in 1308 to provide spiritual comfort to the sick in the neighbouring hospital of Sant’Antonio.

Another splendid city just a short distance from the sea is Aquileia, which offers visitors a landscape dotted with relics from a prestigious past. This Roman colony was founded in 181BC by order of the Senate, with the aim of warding off the Celts and establishing a base from which to control operations in the Adriatic, and also the two tribes, the Lyrics and the Istrians. Aquileia quickly became an operations base and an important garrison for the entire North-Eastern Alps. However, with Attila the Hun’s conquest in 452, the strategic importance of the Roman stronghold was weakened while the role of the Aquileian church was promoted. The new colony was immediately linked up to the network of roads in the Po Valley via major routes such as the Via Annia, Via Postumia and the Via Iulia Augusta. Under Augustus the city became the capital of a vast territory and trade soon prospered thanks to its river port. A visit to Aquileia would not be complete without a visit to the wonderful basilica erected by Bishop Theodore; it was built following the edict of Milan in 313AD and takes the form of a series of rooms that combine to make up the current basilica, which is famous across the world for its mosaics.

Another town steeped in history, mystery and culture is Cividale. The town dates back to around 50BC and was founded by Julius Caesar as a location of strategic military importance for controlling the North-Eastern border passes. It later became a municipium and was subsequently included in the so-called “Tenth Region” of Italy. When the Lombards invaded Italy in 568 their king Alboino chose Cividale as the seat of the first duchy. However the town’s greatest moment came at the time of the decline of the Lombard rule. Today, visitors can view Lombard artefacts of vital significance in the Museo Archeologico Nazionale in the centre of the town. Another point of interest is the Oratory of Santa Maria in Valle, a Lombard temple which is one of the most intricate monuments of the high Medieval age. This diminutive edifice, with rectangular floor plan, still displays part of its original stucco fresco decoration.

Another historical location is Gemona, a prehistoric settlement populated first by the Celts and later by the Romans. Gemona castle fell into disrepair at the end of the Venetian period, was destroyed completely in the earthquake of 1976 and is now coming to the end of a period of ongoing restoration. The cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta also dates back to the Medieval period. The Duomo leads onto the Via Bini, the nucleus of the old town at the foot of the castle, which leads to the Renaissance palazzo used by the Gemona authorities.

It would be wrong to touch on defence without mentioning Palmanova. The imposing fortress of Palma, later known as “la nuova”, was constructed in Friuli by the Venetians as a defence system. The construction of the citadel, which is designed in a striking nine-pointed star shape with 18 sides, was only given the go ahead after it was decided not to exploit defences at Udine. However the delights of the Udine province do not end here.

Towards Codroipo in Passariano is the Villa Manin, the largest villa in Northeast Italy. The immensity of this villa lends it the air more of a Central European residence than a villa, in spite of the fact that it possesses all the traditional characteristics of a Venetian-inspired villa: at the heart of the complex visitors can admire the imposing main house; the main hall is laid out over three floors and extends over five windowed openings  These windows set off never-ending Baroque arches leading to side rooms while to the wings on the first floor lie the aristocrats’ apartments which are accessed via vast staircases. On the ground floor are splendid staircases that testify to the desire of the inhabitants to have direct access to the garden and outdoors. In addition to its artistic treasures, Friuli-Venezia Giulia enjoys an abundance of areas of natural beauty.

Leaving the motorway at the San Giorgio al Nogaro exit, it is only a short drive to the Marano lagoon, a vast area that encompasses the Foci dello Stella nature reserve. This wide expanse has long been recognised as a wetland of international importance, most notably on account of the migratory birdlife that populates the area. With regard to flora, this takes the form of an immense stretch of reed thicket broken by pools and small bays that turn into “sandbanks”, small, muddy islands topped with salt-water plants. Another important nature reserve in the region is the Valle Cavanata. This reserve is host to a population of gulls, cormorants, swans and other aquatic birdlife. Lastly, a little further towards the East lies the regional nature reserve of Foce dell’Isonzo.

Lignano Sabbiadoro never fails to attract holidaying tourists. The resort is located on a peninsula that hangs out into the Adriatic Sea. A special feature of Lignano, as its name suggests (sabbia – sand; oro - gold), are the eight kilometres of fine sand which reflect the warm, golden tones of the sun. The town also boasts one of the largest and most charming Beach Arenas in Italy. With something to suit all tastes, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is a region just waiting to be explored.