PORDENONE PROVINCE of the FRIULI VENEZIA REGION

Situated between the Prealpi Carniche and the region’s flat plains and bounded by the Tagliamento to the east and the Livenza to the west, the province of Pordenone boasts a vast range of natural environments and a wealth of stunning landscapes for the visitor to admire. Thanks to Karst phenomena and the watercourses running through its mountains visitors can appreciate spectacular caves, underground passages and breathtaking countryside across the plain.Looking at the province from a hydrographical viewpoint, the area can be divided into the Tagliamento and Livenza basins, into which flow smaller watercourses such as the Meduna and the Cellina.

The existence of prehistoric settlements has been proven by a number of archaeological finds, the most significant of which are doubtless concerned with the discovery of a Neolithic village at Palù Livenza between Caneva and Polcenigo, noted by experts for its superbly conserved organic matter and paleobotanic finds; and the archaeological finds from San Tomè di Dardago which are of interest because they were found close to a fluvial terrace; these have been dated back to between the end of the Neolithic and the Medieval periods; further finds include the necropolis of San Valentino, discovered at San Vito, which was in use between the 9th century and the middle of the 8th century BC, and an interesting bronze from the 5th century BC discovered at Sesto al Reghena, which have been linked to the time of Paleovenetian control. The most important evidence of the Roman era must be a magnificent villa, the remains of which were discovered by Count Ragogna at Torre di Pordenone and can be dated back to between the 1st century BC and 11th century AD, and the discovery of the “casa dei dolii” on the right bank of the Cellina at Montereale Valcellina. Once the barbarians had left, the land fell into the hands of the Patriarch of Aquileia, then the Hapsburgs and the Venetians, and, after a period of Napoleonic control, returned once again to the Hapsburgs, but this is recent history.

Visitors to these Comuni (Caneva, Polcenigo, Budoia and Aviano) can admire landscapes and natural environments of remarkable beauty: mountains, hills, wetlands and dry plains. Examples of rural architecture blend with the industrial. In these areas the Livenza dominates the landscape. Deriving from a source which rises from the springs of the Santissima and the Molinetto, the Livenza crosses the Palù, joins with the waters of the Gorgazzo and flows through the plain. Situated here is the Colle di San Floriano, which has played host to a botanic park for the cultivation of medicinal plants, wild berries and local fruit trees since 1980.

The celebrated resort of Piancavallo offers ski enthusiasts snow-covered pistes and boasts superb hikes with panoramic views for walkers.Perched on the last ridge of the Alpi Carniche, Castel d’Aviano enjoys a commanding position over the flatlands. The castle that gives the town its name dates back to the first half of the 10th century and has witnessed firsthand all the activities of its inhabitants over time. Essential viewing includes the Duomo di San Zenone which dates back to the 1500s, the elegant Villa Menegozzi, which was built around the mid-1700s by the Menegozzi family, and the church of Santa Giuliana, which dates back to the 1200s or 1300s.

There is a NATO base at Aviano, and thousands of American military servicemen and their partners live in the town. The town also functions as the headquarters of the CRO, one of the most prestigious centres for medical research in the world. It is one of seven specialist tumour institutes in Italy and is at the forefront of HIV diagnostic and therapeutic strategy research.In August of each year the town puts on a folklore festival. In the early 1900s a dance troupe was established in Aviano. Known today as the “Gruppo Federico Angelica”, the troupe dances in full local costume at private and public festivities. In addition to performing at a local level, they have also demonstrated their talents abroad, dancing at the famous Carnegie Hall in New York in 1935. Alongside the 45 young dancers that make up the touring troupe are thirty younger dancers who have been entrusted with the momentous task of carrying on the tradition.

The town of Pordenone assumed the role of principal town of the province thanks to its ability to move with the times and due to a period of intense industrial development, notably during the last century. According to archaeological findings, the first settlement here, established by the Alpine Carantini and Kottlach, can be dated back to between the 9th and 10th centuries AD.But the town’s most ancient and most important archaeological discovery must surely be that of a Roman villa at Torre di Pordenone, approximately 3km north-east of Pordenone on the left bank of the Noncello river.The name Portus Naonis indicates the most northerly point accessible via waterway from the Adriatic and from the heart of Europe. This town boasted autonomy as early as 1219 when it requested and obtained from the Patriarch of Aquileia the delimitation of the town boundaries and control over the Pordenone township. The town was successful in maintaining its independence, even when the Venetians took control of Friuli in 1420. Only the arrival of Napoleon would put an end to its autonomy.

Today, visitors to Pordenone are presented with a bustling and lively town. The historic city centre is concentrated around the long and winding Corso Vittorio Emanuele.Along this street lie palazzi decorated with false screens, diamond shapes and scenes from mythology which symbolised the new social status of their inhabitants. Pordenone’s silent film festival is now a well-established part of the town’s traditions. Held each year in October on the banks of the Noncello, the festival includes silent films accompanied by a live soundtrack.A short distance away lies Sacile. The Livenza river crosses through the historic town centre here, making for breathtaking views. Sacile was founded in 796 when the duke of Friuli had a church erected in honour of San Nicolò and constructed a fortified castle. Today the town’s meeting point is the Piazza del Popolo, which with its oval shape and porticoes is one of the most pleasant piazzas in the whole of Italy. Visitors can stop to admire the Duomo di San Nicolò, the Palazzo Carli and the Palazzo Borsetti.The first Sunday after the August bank holiday the town and its inhabitants take part in the “sagra dei osei”, a folkloristic event dating back to Medieval times.The town of San Vito al Tagliamento lies almost entirely on the flood plain. At the heart of the historic town centre is the Renaissance Piazza del Popolo, where traces of walls remain intact. The Duomo, constructed in 1745 to the wishes of the last patriarch Daniele Delfino, was built on the site of a former 15th century church. The belltower, which dates back to the same era, lies on Roman supports. The cathedral is an architectural treasure chest and contains the beautiful Pala by painter Pomponio Amalteo, a San Vito man by adoption and student of Pordenone. The church of San Lorenzo, in Via Amalteo, contains a priceless late 15th century Pietà in terracotta and the tomb of Pomponio Amalteo. In Via Altan lies the Museo Provinciale della Vita Contadina, which offers an insight into rural life in the area through artefacts, tools and machinery, and documentation.At Cordovado we enter into the Friulian environment so wonderfully replicated in Le Confessioni di un Italiano, Il Varmo and the Novelle Campagnole by Ippolito Nievo. Close by, Sesto al Reghena is steeped in Roman history, having at one time been a Roman statio. The river Reghena promoted the development of the first urban settlement here, which lived peacefully until the Lombard invasion. It is here that the Benedictine community of Sesto was born and flourished. The Abbey was founded in 762AD and Charlemagne, Lotarius and Berengarius promoted its development with their bequests. Around the year 1000 the Abbey enjoyed a period of great prosperity. The church is of a tri-nave construction with a raised transept and crypt where the remains of St. Anastasia are buried. On the walls of the vestibule are frescoes attributed to Antonio da Firenze with scenes from Hell and Paradise. A short distance away is the 14th century Trionfo della morte [“The triumph of death”]. Next, a fresco from the Giotto school in the south transept with tales from the life of St. Benedict.The town of Spilimbergo occupies the north-eastern part of the Pordenone province. Its name derives from the family name of the Spengenbergs, who ruled these parts during the 10th century. The two most important buildings in the town, the Castle and the Duomo, were constructed by the German nobility during the time of the Holy Roman Empire. The people of Spilimbergo have two principal vocations: photography and mosaic work. The cathedral is constructed in the Friuli gothic style with a Roman doorway. Its facade has seven large round windows, two of which have been blocked up. Its tri-nave interior boasts a wooden vaulted ceiling. The church also boasts an organ with case sides and shutters painted by Pordenone.

At Maniago, town of the smiths, knives are produced for all purposes, including surgery. This activity dates back to 1453, when Count Nicolò chose to construct an artificial canal from the waters of the Colvera. Along the new canal the first workshops and laboratories were built. At the end of the 18th century a group of craftspeople began to work on more demanding objects that required a greater level of precision. As such the favri da fin [fine metal workers] were born. Enjoying an elevated situation on the slopes of Mount Jouf, overlooking the road network between the Tagliamento and the Livenza, sits the castle of Maniago. Constructed in the 12th century, the castle had two rows of walls, internal and external, between which were heavily populated dwellings - a type of large family condominium!  The Duomo di Maniago, which is dedicated to San Mauro, is an example of late Friulian architecture. The building was erected in 1448, most probably on the site of an 8th century church. The single aisle interior, with its wooden beamed ceiling and three apse chapels, is an example of the monumental architecture brought to Friuli by the Franciscans, which reflects the simplicity and humility of their credo. At the heart of the town lies the vast Piazza Italia. At the centre of the Piazza is an octagonal fountain; around the edges of the Piazza lie a series of elegant palazzi, including the Palazzo D’Attimis Maniago. Visitors who choose to stop here to eat will find that the rich Friulian cuisine has all sorts of typical local and traditional dishes to offer, including salamis, mushrooms and fish from local rivers, snails and the unforgettable polenta. Some of the best dishes include melted cheese with potatoes, mus (boiled milk with whisked eggs and salt), salat col covo (salami with sour cream) and pinza, a traditional dessert made with sultanas and fennel seeds, all served with a glass of refreshingly tasty local wine.